eight here we are again second part of my two parts bit about mounting components and cap badges putting the tartan patch on the car keep on it the turkey bonnet is a relatively recent introduction it was Purdue it was introduced to the fall of 1915 because the Glengarry bonnet proved unsuitable for the trenches for two things they got extremely dirty very quickly and B its colorful and distinctive and made a very attractive aiming mark for enemy marksman so away went me to the Glen they wore it when they're out of the line but in the trenches they introduced the kharkiv on it originally it was quite a bit bigger than it is now it product provided some protection to the eyes the other racks pattern is a darker material because it was an army contract and it's probably the same material is used for the soldiers coats and overcoats officers because they bought their own stuff they went out of course like this material like this in a bespoke tailoring shop so they've got camel which would be used for very beautiful top coats so the officers TOS is differently colored ie a little nervous about that because again once again we've introduced an identify the aiming mark for enemy snipers about we don't wear these on the line any were doing to site the tartan patch incidentally the target patch was introduced by in the troops initially badges were just mounted directly on then as I start there's quite a few of them in the Seaforth museum the troops have put a fragment of tartan behind the badge generally the earliest ones of any old way but it's an effort by the troops to look more smart more distinctive none of this stuff was dictated by the War Office or by nd HQ or whoever it was the troops turn to look more smart so they'll locate the badge now I've got turret and patches see forth certain patches sell them at three bucks each don't cut up your kilt I'll provide the patch properly mounted the patch as you can see it's cut on the bias it forms a Saltire and also the rim is the st. Andrew's cross properly mounted for the Seaforths I don't care about the other guys the it forms out sort of a stare effect that the the lines in the two stripes are horizontal rather than vertical with the square in the center now to correctly mountainous thing I taken we do it by eye I stretch the bonnet tight with thee there's the back of the bonnet the bow in the center of the bow should be the center of the back of the head we stretch it tight and I determine the center which is about here and then I move it slightly forward of center width of a thumb so called rule of thumb that's an inch a little bit for the center and I've determined that's the right spot if that's by guessing by God but it works so as you can see I've pinned it down now when I sew this I'm left-handed I'm going to use a needle and thread rather than the sewing machine because as you can see this and you probably see the stitches they're quite coarse the purpose is to catch the edge of the raw material if this is machine sewn as the cloth moves around the tart and patch is going to burst from a seam and it's going to look like hell so I'm doing a needle and thread rather large looping over hand stitch I start and I'm left handed so I start at the top and I work my array around to the other side now this bonnet is rather curiously cut because usually as we can see with this when I put the tartan patch on I've mounted the tart and patch a little bit for to Center and the lower edge is even with this seam it's not dead flush with her brim it's a little bit up and that often leaves the top of the badge projecting up above the seam of it as we could see here I started sewing here and I brought it around to the top and at that point that's I don't trim until then so it was a little bit proud I carefully trim it so that it matches the flow of the seam and then I sew it down there was a fashion back in the 70s when I joined the regiment that they would deliberately leave this long and fringed possibly in emulation of the hackle but in Queens on how it is were at the time but there we go we measure it we correctly sight it so that it's prop its level to the seam if you're left-handed you're starting at this corner and working up if you're right-handed you're starting here and working around then cutting the top to suit sewing that down and I also sew a blind stitch across the X so that this cloth is firmly attached up because otherwise it's going to balloon out so there you go you know what you have to do get to it no mistakes in future carry on thank you