welcome to video 3 in the gyproc DIY series in videos 1 & 2 you've seen how to plan your project handle and measure and cut chip faster board now you're ready to start the installation process gyproc pass the board is installed using a combination of adhesive and mechanical fixing and in this video we'll give you a good overview of the installation process for standard ceilings and walls there are some areas in the home that requires special installation procedures these include wet areas tile areas garages and exterior ceilings for detailed installation instructions for these areas download a copy of the gyproc residential installation guide available at gyproc comdata you as with all DIY projects make sure you have safety glasses gloves and a dust mask handy you could also consider hearing protection if you'll be working in a loud environment as well as your safety gear you'll need gyproc started he's you've to glue the board to the joists and studs a 38 millimeter broad knife to apply the adhesive a hammer or cordless screwdriver if you have a timber frame 30 mil ring shank nails or type W 32 mill coarse thread screws for a steel frame use number 6 type s needlepoint or drill point screws depending on the frame thickness a working platform and ladder to reach the ceiling and the top of walls small off cuts of board to use as packers to keep the board off the floor you may also want to consider a plaster board lifter to make installing the ceiling boards easier any corners that project into the room are finished with external angle corner beads which are available in metal or PVC if you're using metal corner beads you'll need tin snips for cutting the bead staple gun and staples to hold the angles in place this works for both 10 and steel frames or if you don't have a staple gun handy you can use nails and a hammer for timber frames only PVC corner bead is generally more resilient than metal bead and less likely to dent on impact it's also recommended for use in wet areas these are a bit trickier to install as they are adhered to the plasterboard edges using gyproc base coat before applying the joining system okay let's get started if you're installing both the walls and ceiling of a room it's always best to start with a ceiling to reduce the possibility of damage later on the installation process is pretty much the same for timber and steel frames with some different specification for fasteners and fixing points this video shows a timber frame installation for more details about steel frame installation refer to the gyproc residential installation guide at chip brock comte you gyproc ceiling boards are installed with the long side at right angles to the joists whether is a change of direction in the frame you may need to fit some trimmers to fix to the boards are adhered to the joist using stud adhesive and fixed with screws or nails at the edges and the center of the board to hold the board against the adhesive first up you need to check your joists to straight and aligned without gaps or bulges and to no more than 600 millimeters apart plane back or pack out any uneven members and pullout or hammer down any protruding nails make sure the surface is clean and free of dirt or grease that might affect the bond with the stud adhesive starting around 200 millimetres from where the edge of the board will go apply ad orb of gyprock stud adhesive around the size of a walnut to each joist and then every 200 to 230 millimeters leaving the area 200 mil each side of the centerline free of adhesive as we will be fixing the board to the joist in this area where the end of a sheet is at a joist do not apply adhesive these will be fixed with nails or screws alone install the sheets at right angles to the joists and nail or screw the sheet to the joists around 10 to 16 mils from the edge along the recess take care to drive the fastener just below the board's surface without breaking the face paper if you've planned a square set sealing the edge of the board along the wall should ideally have the recess removed make sure you don't drive the fixing through any of the dogs of adhesive press the sheet firmly against the adhesive and fix along the opposite edge in the same way fasten the sheet to each joist along the centre line either using two nails 75 mils apart or a single screw at the ends of the sheet nail or screw at maximum 300 mil spacings where there will be a corners finish or 150 mils if the ceiling will be square set for all butt joints as well as when the installation involves three or more recessed joints across that blocking is recommended this will reinforce the joints and ensure a smooth surface back blocks are strips of plaster board that are adhered bridging the joint from behind to provide additional support cut back blocks at least 200 mils wide and long enough to fit loosely between the framing members apply gyproc back blocking cement to one side of the back block with a notched trowel at right angles to the joint direction place the back block with the long edge along the sheet joint edge with half the width of the back block exposed so the next sheet can be installed against it to prevent the back blocks pushing off attach them with a laminating screw around 10 to 16 mils from the sheet edge fix the next sheet with the recessed edges butted against each other with no gaps keep going until you reach the last board check the measurement and cut the last board to fit ensuring the cut edge is at the wall side of the room now it's time for the wall installation gyproc plaster board is generally installed horizontally glued and fixed using nails or screws to the wall studs check your studs are straight and aligned without gaps or bulges prepare your studs like you did for the ceiling installation plane back or pack out any uneven members pullout or hammer down any protruding nails make sure the surface is clean and free of dirt or grease that might affect the bond with a stud adhesive starting 200 mils from the bottom of the frame apply walnut-sized orbs of gyprock started he Civ at maximum 300 mils intervals to each of the studs making sure you keep the area 200 mils either side of the sheet edge free of adhesive where the end of a sheet aligns with a stud do not apply adhesive these will be fixed with nails or screws alone place a couple of plaster board offcuts on the floor against the bottom of the frame as packers to keep the bottom edge of the sheet off the floor lift the plaster board sheet horizontally onto the Packers and then nail or screw it to each of the studs around 10 to 16 mils in from the edge along the recess take care to drive the fastener just below the board surface without breaking the face paper press the sheet firmly against the adhesive and fix along the opposite edge in the same way nail or screw in 300 mils around the ends of the sheet and any openings make sure you don't actually fix through any of the dogs of adhesive where the short ends of sheets meet at a stud nail at 150 millimeter maximum centers or screw at 200 millimeter maximum centers drive temporary nails or screws through a small plaster board off cut into every second stud in the middle of the sheet to help hold it tight against the joists while the adhesive dries once the bottom sheet is in you can check the height of the top sheet and cut it to fit making sure you keep one recessed edge intact fit the top sheet in the same way making sure the recessed edges buck together with no gaps if your top board has a square cut edge for a square set ceiling make sure this goes along the ceiling edge for corners that project into the room we use external corner bead to strengthen the corner and protect against damage firstly make sure the sheets are aligned correctly at the corner and trim any overhang with your utility knife cut the external bead to length using the tin snips fit the bead to the corner and hold it in place with staples or temporary nails check it is straight with your straightedge then staple or nail the bead through both legs at each end and every five hundred mils along the links punch your ceiling walls and external corner beads that are installed it's time to set the joints for everything you need to know about setting gyprock past board joints look for video 4 in the gyprock DIY series