The cold shoulder sleeve is a style of sleeve
in which your shoulders are exposed. There are many steps to sewing this sleeve but it’s
worth it to get this flirty style. I’m using a commercial pattern for this
demonstration. I’ll be cutting two pieces from my woven fabric and will be utilizing
single folded bias tape. You’ll notice the shape of the sleeve is different than normal
inset sleeves. Since the top of the sleeve is not attached
to the bodice, we’ll use bias tape to help finish the edge. Unfold one side of the bias
tape and press. Pin the unfolded side of the bias tape to
the inner half circle of each sleeve. Make sure to place them together right side to
right side and the raw edges are even. Stitch the bias tape at ⅜” of an inch with a regular
length straight stitch. Trim your seam allowance and clip notches
in the seam allowance only, being careful not to cut any stitches. This will help the
seam lie flatter when it’s eventually turned to the inside. Pull the bias tape up and out, away from the
fabric so that you see the right side of the bias tape and the seam allowance is under
the bias tape. Stitch next to the seam line on the bias tape
side, attaching the seam allowance to it. This is called understitching Now turn the bias tape so that it’s on the
wrong side of the sleeve fabric and press. Baste close to the bottom folded edge of the
bias tape. You don’t have to do any back stitching since we’ll eventually remove
this. Then look at the right side and do a regular
stitch right next to the basting stitch for a nice top stitch. When you finish with this,
you can remove the basting stitch. We just finished the top raw edge of our sleeve. Next, we’ll tackle the underarm sleeve.
Bring the underarm seam edges together, right side to right side and pin. They should share
a notch for you to match up. Sew the seam allowance suggested by your pattern.
I’m sewing this at a ⅝” of an inch. Don’t forget to backstitch. After you sew
your seam, press it open. I’m then going to do a narrow hem at the
bottom of my sleeve. I have my sleeve wrong side out. Pin the perimeter ¼” of an inch
to the wrong side and press. I’ll stitch right next to the pressed edge
using a regular length straight stitch. Trim the raw edge, getting close to your stitches. Then fold up another ⅛” inch and stitch again
next to the folded edge. This will give us a very delicate hem, perfect for lightweight
silky fabrics. Now it’s time to attach our sleeve to the
armhole of our bodice. I’ve already started my bodice by sewing the front bodice to the
back bodice. My bodice is wrong side out and my sleeve is right side out. Slip the sleeve
inside the bodice so, when we start pinning, the fabrics will be right sides together. You’ll want to match up any notches or marks
as this sleeve will only be attached at the bottom of the armhole. Single notch with single
notch, double with double. Also match any circle marks and seam allowances. If your
notches are not the same, you probably just have it in the wrong armhole and should try
the other side of the bodice. Stitch your recommended seam allowance, my
pattern suggest ⅜” of an inch for this. Don’t forget to backstitch. That’s it! Our sleeve is now attached to
our bodice. The top part of the armhole, above our sleeve will still need to be finished
so I’ll use the same bias tape method shown before to do it. Here you can see the right side of my unfinished
garment with the cold shoulder sleeve in place and the top of the armhole has been finished
with bias tape. Now you only need to repeat all these steps to put in the sleeve on the
other side and finish the rest of your garment. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please
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