a terrible time for a mean old man you got to get to heaven just fast you can a long time forgotten about the good old days with an alien ever got a poor man paid living in a whorehouse sleeping the sin it's a whole lot of trouble and a bottle of gin gotta get a hold on a good Winfield which is in the fool of the driving wheel getting hard on the hand of a long time man hello welcome to forensics evaluation YouTube channel so today we're going to be doing some paint correction on a mark phone wave golf r32 models should cut a color are quite a quick fast great car action this is a full full motion manual one with sat-nav that belongs to a friend of mine and he's selling it so when wants to get the paint sorted out so that's where I come in we're going to start with the tooling we're going to go through all the toolings and products that i've got here that you might want to use and then we can actually look at the car to show you the damage okay so starting with tooling we are going to be using the polish of a flex 3401 vrg dual action with fixed rotation polisher that we've talked about in the introduction video is a great kind of hybrid tool that sits somewhere in between the dual action standard dual action polisher with a clutch and a rotary that can do prac mine correction reasonably quickly but also finishes down really nicely and it's safe to use so there's the tool the Flex 3401 we're also using four inch lake country backing pad pad adapter system and the reason we're doing that is because really reusing we're going to be using the Lake Country hybrid hybrid power pads which are these pads here they're 5-inch pads with 4 inch backing plates so I think those backing plates are specifically designed for this pad bearing in mind Lake County make both of them so we have cyan yes sorry we have an orange heavy cutting pad we have a blue light cutting pad and we have a white polishing pad so this is going to be obviously the white pads can be in the Polish I'm not too sure which is which of these two pads I'm going to be using I think I've got some going to have a problem with this car in that it's got the original factory paint over some of it but it looks like it's looks like to me the bonnet one of the wings had painted some time this life and usually any paint that's non factory non Volkswagen I'm guessing it's going to be softer than the Volkswagen paint now I'm almost certain it will be so I'll probably start polishing using a blue cyan pad just because it's less aggressive than the orange one and we'll see how we get on and if we're having problems with the correction side we can always ramp up to the orange one but we don't want to be doing it the other way around so those are the pads we're going to be using on the machine and we've got two sets of each so this should just probably enough to do the car because it's not we're not going to be working these pads too hard on the Flex only cranks up to about 500 revs per minute so it's quite friendly on the pads what else will we have we will have some pre-mixed IPA this is mixed down to about 20 percent IPA to water that should be about there should be enough to the other sort of breakdown emulsify the oils when we do inspection passes when we when we polish a car with we've got oil on we've got sorry we've got polish or compound on a particular area if you wipe that off on its own with just the microfiber you're actually leaving new oils in the paint work which has got a guising effect so you want to take all those oils away so you can inspect the paintwork properly so IPA mix is something that's really handy for when you're doing polishing that's essential the next thing we will be doing today because we're doing what still called to stage paint correction you'll be doing compounding where we where we going with a more aggressive product to correct damage and then the second stage where we polish to really flatten that click around give us that silky smooth reflective showroom finish the two products that are going to be using so our compound today is going to be skull or she'll have you pronounce it s3 gold XXL so this is a high cut polish which breaks down the more you work it to a to a flatter finish this so there's it is less of a step when you're going from the high cutting compound to the to the to the polish it's a really oily heavily lubricated product that will not dust on you I find it's great for using on rotaries or you can use on dual action using I just find this is a great compound all-around compound especially for someone starting out you know that you can you can overwork the compound without too many implications you can't say that about every single compound out there the polish we're going to be using this skull s40 anti swirl compound micro fine so basically this is a Polish this is that this is a finishing polish that will give you that silky smooth reflective finish that we're all looking for so s3 gold XXL as opposed to just X 3s 3 gold this is like a limited edition one that's got more cut and more lubrication so that's not compound s 40s are polish ok the next thing is a pile and even this probably might not be enough pile of of high-quality Korean buffing towels these are like air they're so light they're so soft for so safe on paintwork we will be using these to buff the polish or the compound off of the cars after each pass I've got one two three four five six seven eight particular towels in this tub you know I've used them you get or even more that will probably do the whole car to be honest but I've got a ton more of them why I have a lot of them is when I wipe one particular panel down I'll then change the cloth over to another side because I don't want to be using that same cloth with the polish on it because you're just applying more lubricants back onto the surface so I'm quite I get through quite a lot of these so they are yes now if you watch the microfiber BDO they're high pile Korean 70/30 blend edgeless buffing cloths the only other thing to mention I've got just standard APC diluted right down and a toothbrush when I finished with a particular pad it's getting it's getting caked up I've already cleaned it a few times and I want to move over to a fresh one I'll rip that off and I'll just squirt it with AC with a PC just to stop the pad drying out all the Polish kind of powdering up inside the pad and that just makes it easier to clean later on so always have that to hand when you polish it alternatively bucket clean water will do it just as good job the other equipment I've got is I've got an extensional e there I do not want to be messing around with leads you do not want you'll lead to your car to be smacking against the clear coat when you're when you're polishing it will scratch the lead will pick up dust off the floor and it will scratch the clear coat if it makes contact with it so try and keep the cable you know manage the cables when you're polishing it's important and the other thing I've got if I pan the camera over slightly is to give me a bit wobbly where is it here it is okay so is we got a pair of halogen lights they're 400 watt halogens on the tripod and we're inside so the reason we're inside when you're outside you can look at the car that the guy was there when I was prepping the car earlier on the first thing he was saying was that after we cleaned the kite oh it was fine didn't need any polishing I said to him you know have a look at it when I bring it inside bought the car in got it under the lights and I'll show you now the damage on the car that we're going to be looking at so I'm going to cut out here okay guys so we're off off of the tripod I'm holding the camera is the audio is probably going to be a little bit more quiet so let me just zoom max and you can see this car so this car this car has been washed you know snow foam it's been it's been shampoo twice and rinsed off both times it's only decontaminated with fallout remover built Hemlock or assault and a town glue sap something to break the SAP down I used auto smart targets which is quite aggressive one and then I played the car and then drive the car brought it inside and I've put some tape over the car don't always do this but times on my side so I put some tape over some of the lines just to protect it I put one tape down the middle because I said I'd do it before and after for the for the owner so the first thing I want to show you is the level of damage we're dealing with here we are dealing with a lot of damage and I am going to sort of show you here you should hopefully better see this once the camera zooms in or focuses sorry so just put up the camera focusing in and now you can see in those halogen lights when I move away from the lights is heavy scratches there you know you can't see so much over there because we haven't got the lie but you can see all these scratches down here massive that right there we got bird poo marring which is quite deep but it will all come out pretty confident that'll go your general kind of damage that you'll see on a car that's not being particularly well-maintained I mean you can see these massive scratches there the typical spider's web swirling this is probably you know this is not I've seen worse but this is pretty much as bad as it gets in terms of paint correction but there's a there's some stuff that won't come out that is not going to come out all of the way but that will still improve and that will flatten down soften up a little bit but that will not disappear most of the rest of it will come out completely and it's just as bad I was on both sides you can really see if I get the camera down here we are kind of covered in damage some fluff on the car for the tunnel so I'm going to just get that off which is a bit of a pain but this gives you an idea this is as bad as bad as it gets so I'm going to put the camera back on the tripod now and then talk about our approach to how we're going get rid of all this damage and get this car looking like how it really should look and then we'll we'll actually do it okay okay so just before we start polish it so I'm just going to do one more video showing some of the damage I've just just did the position of a halogen so I can get a little bit of a better reflection here going on with the camera so straight away you can see there we are being caught a lot damaged this is all in the section we're going to be polishing if I bring the camera kkeok quite try to get a good angle here so you can really see a damage it's like it's been painted like it's been cleaned a scouring pad and we also got some you can see up there right in the middle the screen now if once it focuses in sorry just let the camera focus it's not good if I put my finger there it should focus there we go we've got some more bird poo marring which seems to be a real typical thing on this car we got something that looks like Stein chips to me they're not going to come out and we've got tons of other damage all over the car so let's just show you okay so I've got this camera set up so it's hopefully going to give you a better view of what's going on it's not an ideal setup for me to actually do this correction but it's good enough I've got the light there in the background I'd normally be closer to that light but it's strong enough and I want normally turn the main lights off as well so I just had one light source really but it's strong enough for me for me to be able to see the damage quite clearly and it helps it's black paint so I'm going to go ahead and start doing some correction before I do also taped up the gaps which which again helps and I've put this towel over the windscreen again if you're laying or if you're working properly you shouldn't really be splattering loads of product around but if you start an out doing this or even if you've been doing it a while I just found it takes me takes me about five seconds to put the towel over the windscreen and when you're polishing polishing the front hood it just you know you might you might splatter I might accidentally lift that that flex up and and a full speed it could throw some product around with a rotary you know if you lift up a tool or get an angle it will throw so I just find it for it's worth doing or some people say oh you you don't need to do that you know only amateurs splatter stuff around well you know if it takes you five seconds to put the towel or not so there you go you also don't really need to tape if you're laying your product down slowly first you put your film with product over your area you're going to work out that product won't be flying around it'll just be being worked on the paint but again it can happen and if you've whatever reason get too much product on the pad and you go over a gap you will sort of force product to catch on the edge you'll also work these edges harder with a rotary so sometimes I'll just tape up because it doesn't take long to do so anyway I'm now going to bring over the polisher we're going to get started okay one thing for a start have to hand a trolley with all of the equipment that you're going to be using also have a stall I didn't mention with the list of the equipment with wheels on it so that you can when you're doing the cylon the car you can sit on that stool get your back straight and use the tool without having to use this bending over because you just do your back in that's really important but the things you're say is never put this tool on the ground the ground of any workshop or any environment even outside is where all the dirt dust is you're walking around you're going to be kicking up dirt and dust and there's a chance of it getting grit and dirt on your pad which you do not want the risk is very small but it's just a method of working again why do it just put it put it on the trolley put it somewhere clean and put it somewhere safe also if the tool is lying on the ground you've got the cord there and you catch the cord you're going to pull the cord you're going to pull the tool trip over you're also going to knock the pad and the pad is going to hit the the dirty part of the ground if there's polish on it all of the dirt will just stick to that Polish and you're going to get self in trouble do not put this on the ground put it in the trolley okay so we now have the camera facing the clear coat so I'm going to be kind of standing working here we go normally we'd probably and we're going to basically we're going to do something a section that's probably bigger than that we'd normally do a probably normally do a section but life about here but what I'm going to do I think is whole piece the whole halfway so I'm going to break this panel down into three and do from about here across and that's manageable and that's okay and I know the compound we're using like I said earlier on doesn't dry out you can overwork it with no consequences or virtually no consequences certainly no consequences to your finish spell and especially with the Flex you can work the hell out of that s3 compound and it'll keep going you know so let's get the the thing so I'm gonna try and do this it's really easy to get into the habit of stopping the video every two minutes and because because you want I want to say the right things I want it to be clean etc but it's going to be a little bit messy and I'm going to just keep the video running and we're going to see how this goes it's going to be lots lots of information hopefully so the first thing we're going to do here we have a a clean fact this might be brand new this pad it feels brand new we have a clean pad so before you start polishing you need to prime your pad if you don't prime your pad you just put your polish onto the pad it's going to get drawn into the pad and you won't be doing much so the purpose of priming is just to make sure the pad is saturated and any future product that you put on on the pad will stay near the surface of the pad and will actually get work to do what it's supposed to do the second thing is this compound needs to be shaken up all the abrasives in it if you could hold them in your hand they'd look like talcum powder a mixed in with lubricants but the way they're mixed in that bottle when that bottles just been sitting there isn't going to be uniformed so you want to shake the bottle really well okay that will do so we are going to put some of this product onto the pad so I'm doing this kind of product in one handed and this thing over here which is a bit awkward what I do is I'm going to be doing four bean sized dollops of product which is almost a standard that's quite a lot of product like say this pad is bone-dry so this is going to be worked in so four dots of product when you're priming the pad after that we're going to do three and they're quite big dollops you can see my fingertip against it there so let's just let that focus it and it will give you an idea once you put the product onto the pad we are then going to put our pad onto the paintwork so let's hope so you can see this there we go our pad is on the paintwork now the first thing you can do wrong here is start working this compound or other us see other people put in the compound straight onto the paintwork if you do that you're more like to sling the product all around so you need to get into the habit the mindset of a we're going to lay this product out and then we're going to work it so when you lay the product out you have your speed on the lowest setting and we're just going to distribute the compound over the car so we've got a clear film of compound over our target area that's it I'm going to break this down into a third so that's what I'm going to do right now with this product so we're just laying it down and I'm going to get the cold out the way as well because you don't the cool guy on the paintwork so I'm just checking you can see what I'm doing okay so that product is laid out a nice even film over where we're going to polish so now we're going to up the speed on our flex to somewhere between four and five so I'm going to start closer to four because I've got a feeling this paint is going to be soft and I'm going to work this product for between 90 seconds to two minutes and we'll talk about the technique after I've worked it and so let's get working this before it dries up okay