well today I'm going to be replacing the alternator on Royal Enfield Bullet this is a 2001 model so step one now I'm talk about the alternator stator which is right in here on the left side of the bike there's a magnet in the middle of it that rotates around which generates the power the wire comes out the back of the primary case here and goes up here into your electrical system now this is important you want to look at where it plugs in and you can see here it's pretty dark it can adjust see four wires there so my alternator has four wires there's orange wire and a yellow wire which go to the headlight because the headlight is an AC headlight on this particular bike and then it has a black and a red wire which go to the regulator and rectifier and power the rest of the bike so your bike might have a three wire alternator or a four wire alternator you want to make sure which one you have before you order a replacement part and you know if you order them on eBay there's some I got mine from Bullet Walla on eBay there's around 50 bucks delivered from India to California United States and they have a lot of pictures on the site so I can look at my look at my current one and then compare it to the pictures that they have and it looks the same now the one that you'll see me installing here is a heavy-duty alternator stator and the reason I'm doing that is because the previous owner put a heavy-duty one in here so I want to put in the one that matches if you're switching to a heavy-duty one you'll also have to switch the magnet in the middle of it as well and in my case since I already have the heavy-duty magnet I'm just going to put in the heavy-duty stator because I know that it'll work I've been told that the regular one works fine and there's really no reason to do a heavy-duty one unless you're planning on running electric vests and stereos and stuff which most people with this type of bike probably would never do anyway so let's get started alright the foot pegs on your Royal Enfield Bullet are adjustable for height so you can actually unscrew this this bolt and then take it off and make it lower or higher depending on how you so you want to take something like a pencil or a grease pencil or even paint if you want then make a mark so that you'll know exactly what position it was in before you take it off and then you want to take off the foot peg using this bolt and then down here you want to remove the shift lever there's a bolt on the back of it it's on sideways so this bolt on the back of the shifter lever and you just pull it off the front or this desert because you just grab it and pull it forwards so we'll remove those and proceed right foot peg comes off then you loosen up the bolt that holds the shifter tight doesn't the bolt doesn't have to come all the way out for it to come loose and put that aside now you want to make sure the bike is on the side stand so that you have room to put a oil catch pan under here alright the well pan is in place now there's only one bolt that holds this cover on it's really clever and great for maintenance super easy to do you just take your what is this take your 18 millimeter wrench stick it on there spin it loose that's a bolt and a washer and then the oil is just gonna come out when we pop the cover off now the gasket around this should be reusable they last a good long time the gasket you can see in here is like a big fat rubber band that fits into a groove and that should be good for quite a while so now we're looking at the stator this is what we want to replace yours will probably not be as thick this way if you've got a stock one this is again as the heavy-duty one and the stock one is you know maybe maybe half the thickness or a little more than half the thickness of this one and on the stock one you will also have some some washer shims here that you're not gonna see when I take this off this one I had to remove the shims in order to fit it inside the case I next we undo one two three bolts to remove the stator all right so now I've unplugged the stair from the electrical system back up here and routed the wire so it's going pretty much straight back that way through the through the wall here and we're just gonna pull the stator off and then pull the wire out now giving it through this hole especially where the where the wire ends are it's gonna be a little tricky so it's off because it's magnetic it gives you a little resistance here we go I'm gonna pull the wires through one at a time they're too big to get all four through at the same time so now I've gotten all four of them out and we can fit the new one thank you see how fat doesn't magnet is I do want to make sure that that shimmed out properly you can see it which this one was shimmed out with washers in your case if you reach in replacing a stock one with a stock one there'll be a big fat spacer here and you just put the stock one back exactly where the other one was in this case the guy had kind of shimmed it up in a funny way and had put the magnet on here so I just want to make sure that the magnet lines up with these metal parts inside of the stator so this you want this to line up right with the middle of the magnet when you're shimming it out and of course leave enough room for you to be able to get the primary case back off all right at this point it's a good idea to check the old part against the new part once you've got them out yeah I've got the new part still in the plastic bag but when I hold them up next to each other the new part is maybe a millimeter or two slimmer than the old part so I've got to make sure that I put enough washers in here on the on the studs too to get these parts exactly right over the magnet if I'm if I'm shifted too far left or right then it won't generate as much electricity because the magnet won't be where it needs to be all right we've got it sim doubt and lined up properly and we're gonna use a little bit of blue loctite on the threat all right I'm in the process of aligning this thing so whatever for whatever reason probably poor manufacturing quality it's able to shift around and if I if I bolt it down we've shifted too far forwards or too far to the side then the it's gonna rub on the rotor and that's not good so what I'm gonna do is just kind of keep shifted around until I've got it centered and I can see light in between the rotor and all the coil pickups alright so this is pretty hard to see throw some extra light in here but if you can see daylight between the pickup and the magnet then you're alright so what I did was because this thing shifts around and if it's too far to one side or the other then the pickup is going to rub against the magnet what I did was tighten it down just a little bit all three bolts so that it was semi snug and then I took something soft in this case the padded end of a socket wrench and just kind of banging on it from side to side gently to get it to move until I could see daylight between all of the pickups and the magnet so now the magnet is not going to rub on the on the pickups I apologize if they're not officially called pickups I'm too tired to go look up to the official term if that's not the term but and I apologize for teenage girls in the background but it works it just it took me a long time to get it to get it tuned because it kept it kept jumping to the magnet to the magnet to the magnet so be patient and just keep trying I found that if I shine a light behind it and then look directly through where the between the rotor and the pickup it helps me to be able to see the light behind it if there is clearance and usually no light if there's no clearance so I hope that made sense now we're gonna wire up the run the wire through and then we'll be good so now again the wire is coming off of the front if the wire is coming off of the back then you put it in backwards you got to go redo it but coming off of the front and going through the top here through this little rubber thing now since it's a four wire setup if you try to cram all four of these through the hole at the same time you'll find out that it's too big for the hole and so you want to do two and then do shove in two more right behind it so let's start out with the with purple ones those would be the purple ones some of these four wire alternators have black and red and some of them have purple so shove those three to the other side okay I think I'm gonna do one at a time that one goes through easy I wish it had Mahler fingers longer wires here second one shove it through that goes through easy pull them out can you see them on the other side there can seem coming out here I'll shove another purple one through there purple one is through so that's three wires through and then we just shove the fourth one through and then pull the wires through from the back to the the where you hook it up to the electrical system alright that was pretty easy here we go feeding it through feeding the black wire through here twisted gentle now you can buy new rubber dealies to the to keep the oil from leaking out on top of your case now I replace that when I was in here doing the primary earlier so I'm not going to bother replacing it but you can buy those new to replace it it's a smart thing to do because to replace it you have to remove the alternator wire so you don't want to have to do that just to fix the leak if you're replacing the alternator anyway all right cool now we just plug it in to it's pretty dark in my garage and it's pretty dark up here in the electrical system but the four wires are right over here and I'm just gonna plug purple ones into the purple ones and the orange went into the orange one the yellow one into the yellow and then it should work alright a little help from my flashlight here you can see all the wires have plugged into their appropriate colors purple and purple and orange and yellow into orange and yellow now as long as you've got this all opened up you might want to check the tension on the primary chain and see if you need to adjust it what you want to do is just make sure that you have about a quarter inch of movement up and down in the place where the this is the checker so you want to on the primary cover right where that checker would interface with the chain right about here you just want to make sure that you have a quarter inch of play up and down but not much more than that and of course rotate it to a bunch of different rotated a bunch of different times and keep checking the tension because the chain might be stretched out one way or the other and if you need to make it tighter you just loosen up this lock nut down here and raise up the plastic primary chain tension or you can watch my primary chain video to see me do it more in-depth right now I just want to get this thing back on the road all right so let's get the cover back on I love this part because it's so easy and of course I'm cleaning out the inside of the cover with a paper towel just to to get any crud off of it there we go it just goes on like that then this guy goes right in the middle now like I said the gasket is probably fine and doesn't need to be replaced it's pretty tough tough gasket dog bones it was ah this one okay there we go we just tighten that up you don't need to torque the hell out of it just tighten it snug so it's compressing down to the rubber band your upper band gasket now I'm happy with that then you want to get it on the center stand so that we can fill it up with me lubricant of your choice the lubricant of my choice is type F automatic transmission fluid I've been told that that's good for the kickstart models and then people use motor oil if they've got an electric starter supposedly that keeps the starter lubricated and makes it last longer but if you don't have the electric starter then the transmission fluid is better all right I'm gonna go ahead and put the foot peg and the shifter back on now I took the shifter off first so I'll be putting that back on first all right now put the foot peg back on again remembering that I made marks to line up how high or low I want it to be so I'm putting it back the same way it was when I took it off and the reason for doing that is if it's it was higher or lower than the footpeg on the other side it'll just feel funny when you're riding your bike also you might not be able to corner as hard as you used to and that can cause some problems if you accidentally put it on lower alright now I've got the bike on the center stand and I've got the kickstand swung out of the way because there's a bolt under here and I'm going to remove I'm gonna remove this bolt this is where I the top bolt is where you can check the primary chain tension and also where you're supposed to add your oil or transmission fluid and then the bottom bolt you remove and you dump oil in the top until it comes out the bottom and once it starts coming out the bottom then you know it has enough oil in it and you stop and put the bottom bolt back in so real simple that's what we're doing and on the bottom bolt you can see I've got a little we can see it but I've got a magnet stuck to it just so that if any there's no filter in here or anything else so this powerful magnets on this steel bolt picks up any metal chunks that are magnetic that might otherwise be flying around in the primary case so unscrew the bottom bolt give them a paper funnel my type F automatic transmission fluid just dump it in here until it runs out the bottom make sure you have a pan of some kind underneath so it's not to make a mess on your garage floor over living-room floor or wherever you happen to be doing this job I didn't seem like enough now the positioning of the top hole is directly above the bottom hole so it's possible that the transmission fluid is going in there and just coming out the bottom hole maybe I put about a quarter of a quart in so far all right so now I'm at the point where every time I dump some in the top it comes out the bottom so I'm satisfied that it is as full as it needs to be so help plug it up and take it for a test drive see if I have electricity all right so now to make sure that the new alternator is doing its job we want to check the light circuit by kick-starting it and seeing if the headlight lights up the headlight is running on AC so if the headlight lights up that's Durham power is coming directly from the alternator which means a headlight circuit is working and then you want to check the ammeter and make sure that it's in the green and not in the red which will let you know that the DC side of the alternator is also working or the side that feeds the regulator and rectifier woods turn it into DC so let's kick it over and see what we get let's say here we've got we've got light at the headlight