we now chamfer and deburr chamfer and deburring is something you to do after you trim your cases because trimming them can leave jagged edges and bears along the inside and outside of the case neck so take your case you can almost actually see little bears this one's for the inside you just give it a few twists not much it's all these little things that matters for accuracy at long enough money are tidge this one here is for the inside the left with nice smooth case this next step I have not seen many people do its uniforming the flash hole which means to make sure that the flash holes are all the same exact size so this is a flash whole uniform er tool with a stop and it has a little drill bit like blade at the top at the tip take your case go through the neck and try to get it until it Peaks up the flash hole on the backside sometimes it's a pain to find there we go if you can see it there then you take your stop push it all the way down then you take your case off you move it probably oh well you try to almost nothing move it up just so you're cutting a little bit out then you tighten the locknut once again and try to fit in that hole and just twist now almost nothing it's it's a very small cut but could be worth it in the end I actually probably will be making another video down the line where I can see the difference if there is a difference in flash LIUNA forming or not almost done with case preparation a lot of people don't do this but I like to put my cases through the tumbler a second time with a finer media to get rid of any of the leftover case lube or anything else that could be there from the case preparation process alright the very last step the case preparation what you want to do first is you want to make sure again that there's nothing obstructing the flash hole such as media Oh clear there now with your neck brush just brush out the next again I like to quickly look down through the whole case itself and make sure there's no media in there anything because that alright cuz after you put powder in there there's a less less space left in the case and that could create high pressures so you have to make sure you're checking to make sure that there's nothing in the case at all last thing just like your very first step is to once again make sure there's no kind of dents or anything left from resizing or anything else like that that case is all set all right now you can go ahead and put all your preparation tools away and get ready for the next round all right it's time to prime originally it was gonna show you guys how they do it with an RCBS hand primer it has been my favorite way to prime it's really quick and it is accurate if you get the real feel for it but I recently bought a Lyman Ram prime and I love this it is it's not as quick but it seats them at perfect depth and it was fairly cheap came with this this and an adapter piece for small primers all you have to do this part here goes into as I called it before a shell holder holder and this you screw right to the top of your press how I do it is you take a shell a fire in shell that still has the fired primer in it and you put it well won't you shut holder let's rant up this part up here and your screw it down until Oh your RAAM down food you screw it down until it feels tight then you locked it locking it so now what that should do is it should see the primer to this priming depth right here I'm using CCI large rifle primers lower your hand put your primer in the cup make sure put in the right way lower it and take your ready case slip right here and push down take a look at the primer it looks pretty good well actually I do like it a little little deeper than that so all you do just back out your luck enough tiny bit and then screw the RAM Prime down a little bit more retighten it put it back in there now that's that's a good depth now make sure you run your finger over it make sure that the primer is not sticking pass the rim here because if it does especially and like if you're reloading it for automatic or well even even a both action they kid you could hit the primer as it's going into the gun and you do not want to do that so now with that now that this is the correct depth I want now you can quickly well good as you can put in your primer show it now this will set that primer same exact depth every time because your RAM can only go so far down now if you see one too far I'm not sure how safe it is but I do use my um my lady capper and I have to capped a few because I did set it too far the first time experimenting with this I had no problems with them but who knows the only thing I don't like about the ramp I'm so far is my leave show holder doesn't fit so tight into this it's a little loose it does work but it's a little loose again so who is you've been for the last one so when you pull down the RAM the same oops pops up did you slip it right into the cap pull it down this part here is extruding the bottom and I'm going to put this thing in which which pushes up that piece so it's that which pushes this up and it's gonna stop exactly where you want it to right the last one here perfect like I said before this is a very good tool that is expensive for a hand tools like 60 bucks but I do recommend in the Randleman the Lyman Ram prime here's a box of human you