well today you can see we'll be putting some obsidian points to these arrow shafts the little video on how to do the primitive Fletch and now we're going to do a how to video on haften a stone point to a wood shaft already got the shafts not to receive the point it's one of mistakes I made early on was making my knocks too deep thinking that the shaft had to come up well past a side groove here to tie on to but that's not the case you only need the point to sit securely into the base the shaft like so first thing we're going to do is take an obsidian flake handsaw works just as well actually use a bandsaw to put these nock grooves in the shaft but what we can do is take the base of the point itself what we're doing here is just entering a good fit and you can shape it with the base of the point rocking it back and forth kind of sign at the shaft itself with point and then check for fit don't want big gaps in there little gaps are okay we're going to fill this with pitch to secure the point and what you really want to check for is that the point can line up straight with the shaft after we get our initial those coals are hot after we get our points geared in with pitch we can fine tune that spin the arrow check that this point is in line with the arrow shaft it's important so that was a pretty good fit on there what we're going to do now let's take some pitch mixture and get a little warm over the coals get the end of the shaft itself warm to receive the pitch get a good bond you can also do this over a candle or alcohol burner nice day out today so I thought we'd get a little a little pot of coals going and do this outdoors you don't have to get this stuff super hot if you're using a torch propane torch or open flame it doesn't take much to get that melted all right so now we're going to take our point and warm it up just warm up the base so that it'll melt the pitch and create a good bond it's a little warm and that's plenty worn there little too soft and check for alignment typically your point will fit good one way but not the other and it looks like I'm going to need to flip this around but this pitch sets up slowly enough with a little bit of heat under it that we can do that now what I do to smooth out the pitch is I use a small warm stick if it's already set up or just tip your finger it's not too warm so let's smooth it down make sure it's not still so hot that you're going to burn your finger lose the point so your point shifts around for a while well that sets up this is where you want to check alignment make adjustments that looks good to me so what we'll do now is just do a little spin test I might shift around on us a little bit that looks pretty darn good so now I'm just going to hold that a little bit a little bit longer make sure it stays in place is that pitch sets up if you want you can take an ice cube to it and finish the pitch now you notice if you look at it from that angle we have these lips here that would catch if this point we're passing through an animal so we want to remove those you can do that before or after with the sharp knife or some sandpaper but you want to remove those lips so that as it passes through there's nothing to catch on you want a smooth transition between point and shaft so here I've got a obsidian flake and just using it like a little scraper planer you see that but it's it's accomplishing what we want smooth transition between the point and the blade I have to give credit where credit is due here these points wish I could say I made these but these were napped by Scott Stanbury of Illinois we've made some trades in the past and he supplies he supplies the obsidian stone points for Echo archery so you can see the difference there this is a nice smooth transition between point shaft and here we have that catch that shoulder so when you take that down always use caution when using obsidian flakes are extremely sharp I also like to give some credit to gills primitive archery leave us his video that I first watched on how to half points where I learned a lot from his videos this is essentially the same procedure the guild demonstrates all right that stuff is sharp like I said take caution alright so the next step and it's alright to leave the tiniest little lip here because we're going to wrap this with sinew and that olla create transition there so after we wrap what's in you will also seal that in pitch I should mention that the pitch stick we're using here is not just pitch it's actually Doug Fir pitch that's been cooked down until all the volatiles have escaped and you left with a hard brittle rosin then it's reheated and beeswax and ground-up charcoal are added to give it some body and take away a little bit of the brittleness if you take a close look here and got a little excess pitch we want to get rid of you can do this pretty easily over candle flame you can get the outside of it hot and smooth it with your finger pull the excess away since we're out here working over coals I just grabbed a round file and put the end in the coals for Oh 20 seconds and that gives us enough heat to rework that pitch yeah we're going for that smooth transition here hoping keeping this in frame all right it's much better all right so now we'll grab our high glue spits in in a hot pot inside and we will wrap some senior around this point all right so now that we have mounted our point with some pitch we're going to wrap it with sinew to secure it and to keep the wood from splitting upon impact so we take a longer piece of sinew some back sinew here and pull off piece of that that's probably enough to do two there and what I like to do is chew the sinew softens it it's it warm and pliable I believe the saliva that does have a plays a part and creating a good strong bond with the high glue seeing you and wood if you want though you can use warm water we'll get it warm and in pliable while we're to nursing you dicker point mounted and apply some high glue to the area it's going to be sin you're wrapped sighs the wood so it doesn't absorb and pull hi glue away from our bonding surfaces sinew wrap in the chef okay we shoot on that sinew a bit and then pulled off a strand so that's all you need just that thin little strand keep it warm and pliable wet and ply it's my glue to that don't want it dripping with high glue you just want to squeegee some into it and take your shaft begin your rap the base of the point go around a couple times to trap the end pull it tight for this in you thin of a strand all right let's try that again rap over the end pull tight not too tight and then cut up in to your point there and around back down across making that X and around the base of the point once or twice up through the side notch around straight across the back then back down to the bay screen the second X then you're going to want to wrap it around the base several times keep it pretty snug as you wrap when this dries and hardens it will really reinforce the base but reinforce the shaft at the base of that point preventing it from splitting the shaft upon impact and losing lots of potential energy all right grab the tail out or trim it and then coat that with high glue is probably little more than it's needed there once that dries down we will seal it with some pitch you you