hi welcome to inside liner met a web series dedicated to all things motocross I'm your host Kenny Watkins today we're gonna kick off the first of several episodes concerning your bike suspension we're gonna start off by doing a full rebuild of a dual chamber fork first off let's make sure that we have all of our bases covered we're gonna need a fork rebuild kit we're gonna need some fork oil and let's make sure that our bike and work area is clean and organized when working with suspension components cleanliness is vital to ensure longevity and proper function secondly we'll need the proper tools some of which you may already have others if you don't you can pick them up at a local motocross shop or a parts distributor you will need the proper fork cap wrench and insert a damping rod retainer a fork seal driver a small plastic mallet a pic and a set of metric wrenches perfect our bike is clean we have our tools and our parts let's get started once you've got the Forks off the bike the first thing you want to do is back the rebound and compression clickers all the way out until they lightly seat now we're ready to remove the fork cap place the fork in a vise making sure that if you don't have aluminum jaws that use a shop towel or other object to protect the fork once the fork caps are off we're ready to remove the oil from the fork when the fork is empty place it back in the vise and lightly seat the fork cap in the upper tube now we're ready to disassemble the fork first remove the dust seal and snap ring from the upper tube of the fork now we're ready to remove the rebound clicker assembly place the fork upside down on a towel or other pad to prevent damage to the fork caps compress the fork and insert the damping rod retaining tool and using the correct size wrenches loosen the clicker assembly by squeezing the wrenches together remove the rebound adjusting rod and we're ready to pull the fork tubes apart this is done by compressing the fork about three-quarters of its stroke and pulling the inner tube out quickly against the outer - repeat that step until the tubes are separated then remove the fork spring inner chamber and spring seat place the lower fork tube vertically in your vise still making sure that you're protecting the chrome surface of the inner tube then remove the inner and outer sliders seal plate oil seal and dust wipers now is the perfect time to do a thorough inspection of the forks themselves checking for any pits or scratches in the lower tubes this can cause premature seal failure either by a buildup of excess pressure in the main chamber or by damaging the seal itself it is also a good idea while you have the Forks off the bike to make sure that they are straight and true now we're ready to install our new dust and oil seals to prevent damage to your new equipment I recommend using some type of seal saver you can find these at your local dealerships and they're definitely worth the five bucks failing that a ziplock baggie can work just as well apply a light coat of grease to the inside of the dust wiper and oil seal install a new wiper and seal followed by the seal plate and inner and outer sliders slide your dust wiper below the vise jaws and seal driver then position the fork seal seal plate and inner slider on the top of the seal driver then drive them into position by sliding the upper fork tube against the driver until the components are seated let's place these tooth off to the side and when we get back we're going to rebuild the inner chamber and get these Forks back together whether you're looking to make a statement or just for something out of the track Rockwell's got you covered worn by mike alessee justin barcia Ken Roczen and Brock tickle you know this company is one that you want to pay attention to also make sure you check out the special edition jerry mcgrath watch Rockwell watch's feature Swiss movement and sapphire crystals plus their Ryder series are made by motocross riders for motocross riders with altimeter thermometers and even a heartrate monitor check them out at Rockwell time comm and make sure to check out the Rockwell chronicles at youtube.com slash King rock media thanks to Rockwell we're right on time to get started on our inner chamber rebuild place the cartridge in a vise then remove the cartridge cap using your fork cap wrench and insert completely compress the damping rod this will assist in pushing the compression assembly out of the cartridge pull firmly but make sure not to damage the assembly for now we're gonna set this cartridge aside and take a look at our compression assembly clean the assembly with paper towels and carb cleaner also check for any wear or damage on the piston inspect the valve and shim stack for debris bent shims or a loose stack nut in this particular case our valve and shims look really good but our stack nut needs some attention it is uncommon for the factory assembly to come loose but luckily this is easy to solve make sure the assembly is secured in a vise and check your owners manual for the proper torque spec it is very important you don't over tighten that stack nut the shaft is aluminum and can break very easily and a brand new assembly is gonna set you back about 200 bucks after the proper torque has been set use a ball peen hammer to flatten the threads on the shaft to ensure that they don't come loose again now we're ready to fill the chamber remember to refer to your service manual for the specific type and quantity of oil as we fill the inner chamber push the damping rod through its entire stroke to bleed any excess air from the chamber to reinstall the compression assembly place the chamber back in your vise and with the palm of your hand press against the cap to start the threads finish it off either fork cap wrench and insert now we're ready to start reassembling the fort start by putting the spring back in the outer fork assembly followed by the spring seat onto the cartridge then slide the cartridge into the outer fork assembly thread the fort cap in slightly and then flip the tube upside down onto a soft surface compress the fork tube and insert the damping rod retainer install the rebound adjusting rod a during installation is important to verify that it is working correctly a properly functioning rod after being pressed will provide resistance and will return to its previous position now reinstall the rebound clicker assembly start the threads by hand until it seats once it's seated you'll notice that there is a gap between the rebound assembly and the jam nut placing wrenches opposite each other tighten the clicker assembly until the gap is closed now secure the fork and a vice and tighten the clicker assembly itself into the bottom of the lower fork tube for the last two steps make sure you reference a service manual for the proper torque specs to finish off the fork assembly reposition the fork in the vise and install the seal retainer clip then seat the dust wiper into the bottom of the upper fork tube finally remove the fork cap and after referring to your service manual one last time fill the outer chamber with the proper quantity of fluid then tighten the floor cap these four caps are sensitive they only require about two foot pounds to hold them in place so don't go crazy or you can damage the threads and that just about wraps it up for us here this week and remember to keep tuning in because we're gonna continue our coverage of suspension with a full chassis setup and a shock rebuild and as always remember to like us on Facebook Follow us on Twitter and subscribe to our YouTube channel I'm out of here