You will need: a brad nail gun, a screw gun, wood glue, a rubber mallet, safety glasses, and a knife to open the box. Use a protected surface to work on to prevent scratches on the cabinet. Cardboard works well. As you unpack the box, you will find: a left and right side panel, face frame, door, and drawer front, shelves, a bottom panel, pieces for the drawer box
(4 sides and a bottom), hardware (including drawer slides,
hinges, screws, and shelf supports), and narrow plywood stringers. With the face frame laying face-down
on the protected surface, run a modest bead of glue in the dovetailed channel. Slide the side panel into the groove. This is the sliding dovetail that
does not require other fasteners and provides a solid joint between
the cabinet sides and the face frame. The left and right sides are not interchangeable and the toe kick is notched to go toward
the front of the cabinet (the face frame side). Apply glue in the grooves that
will hold the bottom in place. Slide the bottom panel down so the lip of the panel fits into the groove on the face frame. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth. The top of the cabinet uses the plywood stringers to slide into place as the top of the cabinet. A full top is not necessary on base cabinets. After gluing the surfaces that will
come into contact with the back panel, set the back into place, lining up the
grooves on the back panel with the bottom. The sides are notched to hold
the back panel between them. Using four flathead screws provided,
screw the back panel to the cabinet bottom. The provided wood corner blocks can be used to secure the sides to the bottom. Nail the wood blocks to the
side and top/bottom panels using 5/8" or 3/4" brad nails. Be careful when nailing so you
do not nail through the side panel. This step ensures that the side panels stay in place while the glue dries. The top of the cabinet has wood corner braces that screw the sides to the front and back. The remaining two wood wedges can be used to attach the toe kick board. Glue and nail the blocks into
place and attach the toe kick board. Place the rear-mounting brackets into the pre-drilled holes in the back panel. Then screw the brackets to the back. These brackets hold the
backs of the drawer slides. Slide the drawer slide onto the rear bracket, and rest the front of the slide
in the opening of the face frame. For best results, mount the slide about 1/8" from the face of the front frame. Screw the slide to the face frame
using one or two of the provided screws. The left and right drawer
slides are not interchangeable. Attaching the drawer front to the
front piece of the drawer box requires knowing where to mount it. Here, we show using a tape measure
to center the front drawer box piece. Some cabinet installers prefer
to assemble the drawer box first, install it in the cabinet, and then mount the drawer
front onto the drawer box to ensure it is located in the proper position. Place a small dab of glue
in each of the dovetail slots. Then insert the dovetails of the drawer
box side into the slots to complete the joint. Slide the drawer bottom into place. Some installers will glue the bottom into place, some prefer not to. Install the back of the drawer box, using glue in the dovetails again. Finish the drawer assembly by tapping the joints so they are flush and tight. With the drawer upside-down, place the front-fixing clips on the drawer bottom and pushed into the front corners. The clips are not interchangeable. Place the clips so the latching
part is toward the middle. The edges that mount to the front and side are flat. These will hold the drawer box to the drawer slides. With the drawer slides extended,
place the box onto the slides. Clip the slides into the clips. To install the door to the cabinet, place the hinge into the pre-drilled cup hole and, using the small flathead screws,
secure the hinge to the door. The door does not have a "top"or a bottom" and that means it can be hung as
either a left or a right hinged door. Screw the hinges to the face frame of the cabinet using the pre-drilled holes as a guide. The hinges can be adjusted by the installer to make sure the doors are straight. Install the shelves using the supplied shelf supports in pre-drilled holes inside the cabinet. The base cabinet assembly is now complete.