in this see flesh video we will show how to test and replace a float switch if you're testing a shower sump pump put the breaker in the on position if you're testing a bilge pump put the switch in the auto position these settings will provide constant 12-volt power to the float switch from there to test the switch simply lift it up and listen for the bilge pump motor obviously the float switch on the right side has a problem to troubleshoot the bilge pump float switch we're going to use a pin to complete the circuit and provide power to the rule 800 bilge pump we will start by pushing the needle completely through one of the two wires shown here in slow motion next we will push the tip of the needle through the other wire which will complete the circuit as the switch normally would when it's lifted up by water the sound of the motor running confirms that the switch is broken and needs to be replaced we will complete this job using wire fittings screwdriver wire cutters wire strippers wire crimpers electrical tape and of course the new float switch we will start by cutting out the old wires associated with the broken float switch then use a screwdriver to remove the mounting screws at the base of the float switch the new switch has a removable base which we can remove before installing use the screws and screwdriver to secure the new base in place and lastly snap the new switch in place the gray wires from the float switch are already stripped so we just need to use the appropriate size butt end of wire connector yes that's what they're called in this case the red one fits the wire correctly so we'll slide it onto the wire and then use the red handled wire crimper to crimp the fitting on to the wire then do the same thing for the other wire we will then connect one of the gray wires to the brown wire that goes directly to the pump the brown wire has insulation on it so we'll use the wire strippers to expose the copper end next connect the brown wire to one of the two gray wires it doesn't matter which wire you connect because float switches are not directional when it comes to the flow of electricity after crimping both sides of the connection tug on the two wires to make sure it's secure we continue by stripping and crimping the red positive wire again we check that the crimped connection is secure with the sub pomp breaker back in the on position we lift the float switch to make sure that it's working lastly use electrical tape and zip ties to secure and elevate the wires for more information on cleaning and winterizing the raw water systems of engines generators and air conditioners visit sea flesh calm or see our other youtube videos you