hey I'm Anthony welcome to machine right today we build a vacuum chamber for this build that purchases a cooking pot a piece of half-inch polycarbonate and silicone RTV I start by tracing the outer diameter of the pot as a guideline as the pot was not completely cylindrical I then find the center of the stock by using a center finder and mark a line from two points use a compass to draw accurate circles for my cut borderlines and do this for both the ID and the OD I head to my mail to start the drilling and cutting operations I use a scrap piece of wood and send a piece of polycarbonate on top drill a hole in the center with the drill bit about 30 thousands of an inch smaller than the wood screw I drill a pilot hole in the center of my outline I drew earlier and follow with a larger drill bit to complete the required bore size of me and Miller please note that most animals do not have the capability to center cut and do not like to be punched right down this is why we drill this relief hole I then insert the end mill and take the depth of cut of about 30 to 50,000 of an inch per pass this is roughly about the thickness of 3 to 4 business cards once the slot is complete I move then mail half an inch from the slot to run the sides of the top this part is strictly for aesthetics and not necessary if you prefer a square top and yes mind meld does have center cutting so I can get away with plunging I then drill a pilot hole for the fittings these can be located anywhere you prefer I switch the drill bit and drill a remaining holes to the clearance diameter of my fittings and we're done with the milling and drilling i laser cut a squeegee out of acrylic to apply the silicone to the proper height to prevent the pot from being pushed too far down you can easily make this without a laser I apply the silicone RTV and make sure that I apply a liberal amount but not too much to where Republicans hate me I then use laser cut piece to set the height of the first layer of silicone I apply my second layer and then smooth the top with the razor plane I apply some Vaseline as a release agent as this is adhesive base silicone I then put the top of the pot on the silicone we just apply it wait for it to dry and pull the top off I remove the protective masking pull any silicone that made its way past the slot I do the same for the back as well and then add two quarter inch NPT bulkheads to ensure an airtight seal for my fittings I grab a vacuum gauge with a quarter inch NPT or the lower mount configuration to monitor the amount of vacuum I'm pulling I use a tee fitting to allow me to use two quarter inch NPT ball valves I pretty much add teflon tape to any connection with the thread and tighten firmly this is the quarter inch NPT ball valve I attach both quarter inch NPT ball valves to the tee fitting and tighten here I use a Quick Connect fitting to easily attach and detach my vacuum pump and there it is the completed vacuum chamber but I think we can add a little flair by adding a custom sticker I made with my vinyl cutter this is Iowa's made for my friend Nick ferry link in description below now it's time to test the vacuum chamber I grab my Part A and Part B platinum silicon and mix vigorously once mixed I put the container in the chamber I put my lid on top of the pot and prep the vacuum I'm using a seven CFM vacuum pump for my chamber but you can go with much lower CFM unit I connect the vacuum open the ball valve and watch the silicone grill please note that silicone expands to three times its volume so it's okay to release some vacuum to prevent silicone for sewing over into the container I then pour the silicone into a mold box with my friend Nick fairies 3d printed logo that I made for him after I pour the silicone I wait for it to cure I use 91% rubbing alcohol to release the hot glue surrounding my mold box once done I remove the acrylic sides I then pull the 3d print out of the mold and the mold is creepley I grab some talcum powder and apply to my mold this causes the resin to absorb finer details and reduces bubbles in the resin especially in the corners I then for some resin into the mold and move the resin around slowly once cured I pull the resin part out slowly from the mold remaining flashing can remove with a fingernail or exacto knife that's it finished bubble free resin copy I think this project turned out well some people might say it sucks because it's a it's a cracking so sucks I did use a mill but you usually use a drill press or router with the circle jig but I have absolutely zero bubbles in my silicone mold like zero as you can see right here now I did this this was a 3d printed logo of my friend Nick Fairy he has a channel right here as well in the description take a look there he does woodworking and theater props so do take a look at his channel he has some really cool stuff finished project Fitness product of the resin is here there are two examples this was 3d printed I smooth it make sure it's all nice and pretty and flat and you know nice which I'm going to have a video of in the future and then I poured the resonance mold and it came out great no bubbles I mean perfect talcum powder really helped out seriously thank you so much for watching this video it really means a lot to me this is my first video so let me know your thoughts down below if you did enjoy this video like comment and subscribe I have some seriously cool content coming up soon so if you do subscribe stay tuned seriously have a great day see you next time