hi I'm Andrew berry and welcome to ask the benches YouTube channel in a few days time it's coming up to my wedding anniversary and I've been happily married for a long time and back years and years and years ago well I met my wife first getting very sentimental at the moment now when I met my wife first for the first Valentine's Day present that she gave me she gave me this little silver ingot it wasn't on the chain that I'm wearing at the moment he was on the quite a nice fine box chain and this little n got silvering got back in the early mid 80s was nice and fashionable and that even still fashionable now is something very very simple another the years you you wear something and you don't realize how much things are wearing the top links the loops the bails the jump ring is the bought rings that clasp don't realize how much everything wears and say I've had this since 1980 1985 so 85 was asked 32 years now and I think I've only ever replaced the top loop on this here I think only twice and I looked at this the other day because we were trying out some little jewelry wipes and this little top loop here now is getting quite thin and I thought this is going to be a very straightforward project for our youtube channel to show you how to replace this top link here and even the other link and that's got a bit of wear on that as well and even though we've got quite a thick chain with it this still wears in a particular place or two on this top loop so let's play with this let's replace the top loop and I'll show you what we're going to do to replace these top loops here and also just this large jump ring that we've got on the top here now so the first thing we need to do is to simply either two options you either cut off the top jump ring or you can hit up the ingot to remove it I'm simply going to cut it off with the saw and then just gently file it to me that's going to be a nice simple easy operation rather than having to heat it up there's a risk there's always a risk of things going wrong and melting and unsoldering it put it into the acid dry it you might be quick and easy just to saw the thing off I'm going to so they replace this top loop as well here because this is quite worn as well so I can discard those top pieces there it's filthy dirty I never take the thing off so going nice and close to the top of the pendant cut through and cut through I'll just keep that top jumping there just so I got some idea of size if I come to replace it you can see now where we've cut the loop off here I'm going to just get a file and just clean up that a fraction to make sure that that surface is nice and flat and clean come over them with a bus tick so that top area now is nice and clean just get a little bit of flux onto that first of all okay so that's going to protect our area it's lovely lovely and clean you can see how the flux have covered that surface just pop that to one side a moment and now we can make up at the loop that goes upon the top I've got a little bit of silver wire Hugh got some various gauges that we have I'm just going to grab a piece here size wise this is roughly about a millimeter I think and we have a look okay the battery's going that engages try this one here we go like Kim's had come to it exactly one millimeter just going to make up my own jump ring pair of pliers take this around go past like that and I can just simply soar through that okay so that's my top jump ring pop my wire to one side now I'm going to straighten that up so it's all in alignment and we could easy and simply come along and just solder that and directly upon to the InGaAs but it's not lit be very strongly to increase the amount of surface area so I'm popping in a pair of parallel pliers and I'm going to flatten right where that in joint is and I'm going to go through around about 1/3 to 3/4 of the way through this jump ring and by doing that you're increasing the surface area and by doing that you're increasing the strength of that jump ring make sure that is nice and straight okay let's get my tweezers to show you so I've gone through run about three quarters of the way it's got a nice flat tight pop a little bit of borax on that area just to protect the area okay let's solve this onto the pendant next we're going to put the in got in a third hand now I'm gonna be soldering it on to here and what I'm going to do you gotta think about how solder moves and the way it moves regarding heat I am gonna be heating it from this side which is the plain side here so I'm gonna have this facing me and I'm gonna be soldering in this direction okay why why am i doing that it's simple because solder is always attracted to heat and when I'm soldiering the heat is going to be more so on the back of it than the front and there's going to be less chance of the solder flowing on this side where there's no flame than it is on the back I can control where that solder goes and if I heat up this area the solder will stay over this side as opposed to that side if I was putting the heat on to here with the jumping on top and I had too much solder there's a chance the solder is going to flow down and fill in all the detail on the top by here and that is not what I want so by bringing the flame onto this side first of all get the solder to run then I can bring the flame on to this side just to pull a little bit of solar through onto this side hope that all makes a lot of sense and also I'm going to do a bit of sweat so laundering which means that I'm going to mount a little bit of solder on to the area that is biggest first of all then I can bring the little of jump ring into place you really have to think in advance about how the solder is going to move because the solder will love the heat this way the heat is a concentrator on the back there's no way that this front edge here is gonna get the heat more so than the back because the flame is pointing towards the back of the ingot so I'm not going to get the solder flowing where it shouldn't be flowing let's prop that and a little bit of solder right in the center now I have my little jump ring waiting on the side by here and like I did in the last film with that plug I earring we're going to heat up this area this area is gonna take more heat first of all than the little jump ring if I brought that into place and tried to heat it them all up at the same time this little jump ring is going to melt because it's going to get hotter quicker than the rest of the ingot this is going to take a long time to heat up compared to the jump ring so we're going to heat up the ingot first as soon as the solder then starts to melt on the top we're going to bring our jump ring on top and the heat then will be just right and the solder will transfer from the ingot because that's gonna be the right temperature straight across onto the jump ring perfectly also what you're gonna find is because we've got the ingot in these tweezers the tweezers are gonna take some heat away as well so let's warm those up first - but you always lay this down on our soldering block but I feel that having this straight up like this we can get the exact placement whether we want the jump ring forwards or backwards or in the middle exactly where we want it so this will take get quite a few seconds now to warm these tweezers up otherwise they're gonna act as a little bit of a heat sink make sure the hole is right we positioned on our torch so we get the hottest flame so let's just see the color of the ingot starting to change the color of the flux on the top is starting to change first whilst that is happening I have been getting my little jump ring together in the same parallel with the edge ready and waiting look at the curve of the flux any moment now that solder is now going to melt then I bring the jump ring into place there we go between the jump ring in just like that if I want to make sure that solder has been pulled through now to the front turn that around it has come through lovely I'm just gonna warm it up just to ensure that it has come through hold onto the jumping in case it falls down you see that the solder has come through make sure it has there we go super brilliant okay that's that wait for that to cool a fraction before we pick it up and put it into the acid I'm going to leave it in there washing make up the next jump ring okay let's work on the next jump ring let's just see what size that jump ring is 1.5 1.6 millimeter I've got my bat my bundle of silver wire here let's see what size this jump ring is how this wire is here at one point too and get some thicker or why that seems to be quite thin okay some thicker wire here now this is there we go one point six millimeters a bundle of wire it doesn't have to be that accurate all I'm going to do is just turn that around to start off with around the pair of pliers and I'm going to just make sure I take it around the pliers just quite gently I'm not really doing this very very tight it's gonna be nice and even just gonna take it around about twice around the pliers now that may be a little bit too small let's just see if my train will pass through that it will actually so that passes through quite nicely just going to make that jump ring a little bit bigger just forcing that bit more round how's that yeah that runs through quite nicely okay so let's cut this jump ring now as well exactly the same as before hold on to it coming right around cutting through there we go so that's the jump ring there I'm not going to solder that jump ring just yet and could need to put it through the ingot loop first of all let's see how that's looking in the acid now okay that's looking nice and white the flux is off it as well because if the acid is nice and warm so that's looking exactly perfectly as we want it let's just put that jump on through the top loop open that jump ring up through the top loop and close that nice and tight and let's all to that as well two ways we can do this put it in our third hand or light light down on our soldiering block I always like to put things in in my third hand just so I know exactly where it is and I can control the whole procedure and it's just me a little bit straighter lovely okay and again we're gonna put a little bit of flux on to that and the sole that doesn't really matter whether it's hard isn't medium or an easy all my doing is just joining all these links together I think this is a bit of hard solder small little bit of sold as we got there put that right upon the joint and again exactly the same ways before we're going to heat it up but it's going to heat up the the tweezers as well first and what I find by heating the tweezer the heat transfers through to the jump ring which then makes the water evaporate slowly which then does not make the solder jump off as you can say on woman the tweezers up the water is evaporating slowly off that jump ring once the water has evaporated off that jump ring the borax all goes up the tweezers are nice and hot come along and pay my attention there to the top of this jump ring this is not going to come and done Bob's your uncle perfect wait a little while pop that back into the acid as well acid I say acid it's actually a safety pickle pop that into there and again leave it in there for a few minutes okay it's been there for about two minutes now it's nice and warm and that's what we've got I'm just going to buff a little bit on that top lip I got a little bit of flux left on that top loop let's just smooth down that bit of flux as well super okay I don't want this to be really highly polished because I'm not that sort of person to wear highly bright sort of things I'm just gonna get my pendant drill gently going over the outside surface this is a 21 millimeter white nylon brush my favorites absolute favorite this is and this is gonna be ideal to get into these little areas where we birthed before we put the jump ring on come around the bottom of that jump ring and go over the top bail sort of jump ring as well you see this is the most adaptable most popular in my eyes type of brush to have there we go and that's what I'm going to do to it I'm going to wipe it over with a cloth just gonna pop it in some hot soapy water or if you got an ultrasonic you use that or if you've got a bit of a jewelry cloth come across and just give that a bit of a wash a bit of a wipe over but as you can see with the state of the chain it's not highly polished I don't really want this to shiny but I'm just pop that in some warm soapy water just to get rid of all that excess polish that's got all the polish out of the whole Marcus is the hallmark down the front of being got here so my chain will go back through that so that is back on my neck completely restored oh guys cold ready for another 10-15 years however long it's going to take to wear through again so that's how we replace the top loop upon ingot it could be a locket it could be a different type of pendant just showing the technique that we used to attach that top jump ring making that jumping a little bit thinner so the contact air is the amount of solder that we use to join those two services together is larger than if we just had the simple jumping gun up on the top it makes a nice strong joint and how we controlled the flow of solder so we don't mess up and filling all that detail of that hallmark on that one side so hope you enjoyed the film don't forget please like this film subscribe if you haven't subscribed already and please share it with your friends I'd love you to do so in the meantime my name's andrew barry for at the benches youtube channel see you next time buh-bye you