so we've got the rebar in place here for the footings and you can see we've got two bars running in the bottom of the footing and two bars suspended above for the top of the footing now we've lapped these a good 24 inches and tied them off with the twisty ties and we've got just a temporary piece of rebar across the top here that's hook that's holding these top places pieces in place now when the electrical comes in we need to know if we're going to have a service panel on the building in this case we have an electrical panel that will be on this north facing wall and so in an area somewhere close to where that panel might go we're going to have what's called a u4 ground this is basically a long piece of rebar it's run down into the foundation and extends out oh it's about a 20-foot piece and all told now this piece is required to ground the electrical panel into the slab itself so this thing needs to be in place before we pour our slab we've also run a piece of conduit here that will run out as a home run to the electrical panel down in the slab and we can also go up the wall and out into the roof line but there's some places where it's actually going to be easier to run secondo it down through the bottom of the slab now this doesn't have to end up buried too deeply in the slab it just needs to go down and be out of the way of the installation and other materials so that we can keep it keep our installation flat before we do our pour now you need to check with your local power company most companies don't want more than about 270 degrees of turns from where the power comes from its source into the building so here we've got our 90 degree sweep coming up right to our panel location and we've got a pull string in there and like I say we've been sure to set it up so that we don't have more than 270 degrees worth of turns this is something you'll want to have also near your u4 ground so that you've got the all the electrical connections you need in the same place when the electrician's come back to put the panel on the building so you can see here in the bottom of this interior wall footing we have a structural wall that lays in the middle here so we have to have a bearing footing underneath it we've run the conduit for the home run back to the electrical panel and in this case it's just on top of the rebar that's going to be set up in the footing that actually pull this rebar up when we pour get it up off the ground so there's enough flexibility in this pipe to allow us to do that and then run this again keeping it towards the bottom we don't want to have the the pipe up in the air in here without support underneath it because then when we pour the concrete will have a tendency to just snap this under the weight of the concrete so we got it down where it's supported underneath run it along here again keeping it close to the wall and we get up into the bottom of the slab area we've just dug out enough to basically keep the top of the pipe flush with the bed that's going to be our base for the insulation and for the base of the concrete now we run this all the way out and taking it to our first stop over here which is a switch that's actually a 3-way electrical switch which means we have a light switch here that powers the light in the house and then there's a light switch on the other end of the building that also powers the same switch so you can turn it on and turn it off from either side of the room so we've got conduits running back over there to carry power back and forth between the two and then a third line which runs out to power another switch on the other side so we basically can tie the mainline into that second line and create a secondary source at the other end of the building in this building the clients had requested floor plugs in the concrete slab so we've gone ahead and laid our conduit and our three plug locations out on the floor and set up our boxes the key with these boxes is to have them above the level of the slab you do not want to finish them flush with the slab if you finish them flush it's going to be difficult to get all of the equipment in there and get it up the way that you want it when it's all said and done so the electricians would actually prefer you leave it high they can then come back with a sawzall and cut it flush with the concrete it's a little bit backwards than what might be intuitive but that's that's the way that the electrician's asked for it to happen so basically set them you can put little pieces of rebar down into the grade that will hold them at the right elevation and in place and as you're doing your pour you just want to make sure that they stay above the finish level of the concrete