hey everyone its Matt Martin with the grass Factor today we are going to have the ultimate war when it comes to nutsedge control options let's jump right in alright y'all so basically to understand how to best go about controlling nutsedge it's important to understand how the nutsedge plant works in general so all the carrots varieties here the way it works is you know so this is our soil surface this is going to be what we actually see above the ground the plant itself and then we have these fine little hairs that grow along these tubers these tubers are going to be you know rhizomes life like you would see in a typical turf grass plant and then they have these fine little headers attached to it and at the end of those fine little hairs you have these nutlets so the problem when it comes to and removal of nutsedge you'll hear people you know I pulled nut set for an hour and a half out of my yard and that's where it came back thicker than it ever did before well the problem is when you pull the actual plant itself the hairs that attached to these nutlets are so fine that there is knit impossible to get those out and let you dig them out and even in that instance it's very difficult to dig out in Douglas because sometimes it may be one inch deep and other times they may be eight inches deep and so you never really know if you got the entire thing out so hand removal isn't really a feasible option when it comes to nuts edge is probably best to go about it chemically so when it comes to chemically controlling nuts edge there are some different options on the market but probably the three most popular going to be talking about will be one health of your on also known as edge hammer the other will be self-insured zone also known as dismissed and then third we will also be talking about sulfonylureas which also encompasses health of your arms but I'm going to be talking about the ones that more pertain to warmth in grass side but monument katana uncertainty all right so let's go ahead and start with sedge hammer double reason why I like sedge hammer is that it's pretty gentle towards all turtles both more ankle seasoned term it's going to exhibit a lot of tolerance towards this product it is an ADA less inhibitor so what is going to happen is that is going to block protein production in the plant of virtually weaking the plant far enough that it will no longer be able to survive it is systemic so it's going to move from the shoes the actual grass that we see above-ground to the root system it's going to display a fair amount of activity in killing the nutless but not a great amount of activity in killing the nutless but again what we're looking at is that house if you're on is very very safe for most of your turf types ok so this is a positive thing to use however where we run into an issue when using house if you're on is that house appear on is going to prevent these three to eight leaf stage so outside of this leaf stage here you're probably going to have to run into repeat applications so if it's a new set plant that's just arted to emerge and you spray the house with your own chances are you're not going to get very good control if it's already going to seen multiple times it's later in the season may be August and you're still dealing with the same set point changes are you're not going to get great control at all if you're on with a single apple occasion all right that being said let's move into Seoul central zone also known as the Smith this is probably one of the more popular products out on the market this is a PPO inhibitor so this is going to interrupt the chlorophyll production cycle that takes place in the plant again this is another systemic product so it's going to move from the lead down to the nutless however this is going to be the one big advantage of silk suture zone to house if you're on at 12 ounces to the acre we start to see signs of pre-merger activity does this mean so pinteresting is going to prevent yellow nuts there is evidence to say yes that it is potentially can now it may not control purple nutsedge from a prerunner perspective but yellow nuts edge and your annual variety there is evidence stating that yes it can so there's a popular product on the market called Escalon which is a mix of proton amine or barricade with self-intro zones the dismiss product and it is labeled to control yellow nutsedge to get best control what you're looking to do is get that cool 12 ounces to the acre and three applications so 3/4 else to the acre applications of soap intros own is going to have the greatest amount of damage on these nutlets so you'll get a fair amount of nutwood control with a house of your on you will get the greatest amount of nutless control which love ounces to the egg or total of your dismissed now here's kind of the risk when it comes to Solyndra zone it's a hot hot product when you're above 90 degrees you start to running the issue now 90 degrees I don't know you get a little questionable you cannot run so Center zone with a surfactant or a proper oil or methylated I guess you could but you run into that that damage potential even greater cool season grass type seems to be a little more sensitive to it because of that repair ability doesn't exactly exist whereas if you're going after some Bermuda and you know nutsedge of Bermuda grass verbena grass can pretty much grow out any of the damage it takes I would keep off of things like centipede or st. Augustine with a product like pulp intra zone I think it's actually on the label that you can use it at reduced rate however it's not something that I would feel comfortable doing so you know when I say warm in cool season grass types it can be safely applied to your fescues it you know talked about minimal rates for fine fescues or chewing fescues like a red fescue and then you know your warm season grasses Bermuda and soldier grass are going to be more tolerant of it than say like symmetry and st. Augustine so this product here has a little bit greater risk than this product which may not give you the exact amount of control you're looking for so you know between the two of these products which one is going to be better than the other I think I really that comes up to the turf manager in general like I know this last year I used house if you're on and I was happy with the results and the reason why I was happy with the results was because I did not have that damage to my lawns that I experienced with de Smith so in my particular instance that's why I wouldn't ever helps if you're on now that being said if you have lawns that look like there is nothing but nuts which so they're covered with Klingon species subspecies what do you do how do you tackle it it's perfectly safe to mix these two products and apply them together in a broadcast app with to maximize your level of control that's a very expensive application to do however if you know the sedge is your issue that is the way to go about it all right so let's move on in lastly to our warm season Turk I so this is going to be you know Bermuda Georgia primarily it's centipede in st. Augustine be sure and check your labels I don't know enough about these products on centipede and thing always things be able to recommend them however when it comes to the ultimate set control in one season grasses these three products right here are as good as it gets a broadcast application of monument so this is what I'm used on football fields baseball fields when I'm spraying up rye grass I can use this monument which is trifle oxy so if you're on a 15 grams to the acre is just an absolute amazing product not only going to get rid of all the cool season grass in the lawn in the playing surface you are also going to eliminate just about a hundred percent of all your settings same thing is going to come up with katana here because I was going to give you an even faster burn down of your cool season grasses so your perennial rival cook out very very very fast and it's also going to eliminate your surges again what we're looking at use right here it's like three ounces to the acre certainty is another part shuffle superior arm and this is a fantastic product for one season long Bermuda Georgia grass soulful superior is going to give you a very stern old kill it's not the fastest of the three products listed here but it is going to give you a excellent to above excellent level of controls on your side varieties so anyway this is going to be the great nutsedge debate and again like I said what it comes down is going to be what you and the turf manager prefer as a product to use when you're on one season grasses I don't think there's any reason to go this route unless you're going after this pre-emergent activity here with a 12 X to the acre ray if you're going after that that level of control then dismissed is probably going to be your product however if you're going after something like your ball field where you know budget concerns are there and you know you have to spray out rye grass why not go ahead and control your nuts h2 by using a product like monument or katana that is going to be very broad spectrum as far as what else is controlled and again for the cool season guys out there and you know right here high-risk high-reward which one do you want I know I had an issue with getting the damage that occurred on pools ease and grass types to grow out and periods of heat so that's why I made the switch to help with your line however there was a couple of instances this year on lakefront properties where our edges were just completely out of control and what I did was mix a - I ran both how severe on and full fenders own as a broadcast application to achieve excellent excellent control so all right go that's going to get it that's my video on nutsedge the Great War of method if you guys got in questions want me to tackle any weeds in the product types Fisher and comment below and I will get back to you the best I can in the meantime if you guys would do me a huge favor subscribe hit the like button let me know what you like what you don't like I'm open to it all alright y'all have a good one you