at April hair 101 and I'm going to show you how to do a chunky blonde weave today and she wants to have really big defined chunks between the natural color that she has now on the blonde so we're gonna have some fun with that and I want to let you guys know that we just finished our music video parody to teach me how to dougie but it's teaching me how to cut it and I want you guys to go and check that out so we're putting a link right here so that you guys can watch it and hopefully put the smile on your face and inspires you to learn how to cut some hair and share it with all of your friends and let me know how you guys like it if you guys want to see more videos like that then you have to share it and you have to make sure you comment and give it a thumbs up so that I know that you like it umm so let's get started I'm going to Park her hair I'm going to do she does a really far side part two on the right so I'm gonna make sure that I part a little bit below that like a half of an inch below that and on this side also I'm gonna part right there so I'm kind of shifting a mohawk section just over her part so that when I do this stripes there's a little bit on both side of her part so that she doesn't have one side that's all stripy on the other side that's a solid color because that is not what I want to do that's why that's why I'm saying to do that okay so I'm doing kind of a round shape on this section on the top of her head you want to be able to fit a foil without having too much of the ends lifting up so it needs to be kind of on the thinner side so that the foils can lay more flat and that way you keep the the color closer to the scalp okay so here's my partying oars my section and I'm going to clip this off clip it up tight and now I have this underneath I'm just going to part right below her ears so I just went right below the ears and parted this up and we're going to leave all of this underneath here dark but we want to be able to kind of protect it and here's another thing she is kind of indecisive on whether or not she wants to go a little bit more blonde later on this summer so we're not putting any more color into her hair you could also go in and do like a really deep brown with this so that it was a really contrasting colors you could do a brown and a blonde but we're just gonna try to leave as much of her natural color in as we can so that because we've noticed she likes to change her hair a lot so the less we do the less we do to her hair the better because when she changes that the next time she won't have as much damage I mixed up the for me C D color cream with a 30 volume because she wants a really light and then I'm just gonna put some conditioner in the ball and I'm going to use this instead of ooh I just squirt it on the floor instead of a brown color because it will protect the hair from getting bleach on it and it will keep the hair kind of smooth down so back here just to keep all this hair out of the way I'm just going to smooth the conditioner on just at the roots because the ends should be protected from the foils and that's going to keep all of this down and I'm even gonna stick a foil on top of it and it's just gonna help me keep all my sectioning really clean so that this line doesn't get a bunch of bleeding into end stuff so now that conditioner is holding it on sticking it on nice and tight and then the clip just holds it to the hair so now we can let down this middle section and I'm going to be taking vertical sections throughout her hair and we're going to go all the way around and I'm gonna do three thin slices of the blonde and then leave about a half of an inch to an inch of the brown left out with just a little bit of conditioner on that we're going to work all the way around from this side of her head all the way to the other side okay so just tilt her head a little bit away do you want the blonde be closest to your face or you want to keep it Brown I would say keep it brown I shouldn't even asked you just kidding okay the reason why I think we should keep this brown up by the front of the face is when she sticks it in a ponytail this Brown will cover up the line of the blonde and it will make it blend a little bit better so I'm leaving just that front section brown and you can stick a little bit of the conditioner on there just to protect it and keep the line really clean and then I am going to work forward so now that conditioners there like the foil will really stick to it nice and I'm taking full slices so a slice is the entire little section of hair it only needs to be like an eighth of an inch to a fourth would be the most but I would do an eighth of an inch thick and then you're gonna take your foils and I just make a little crease and stick my comb in and then I push it right against where the conditioner is and make it nice and tight and then you're gonna take the lightener and you're gonna cover the entire piece of the hair and you're going to do three of these little slices in a row and you need to work quick and also the reason why we're doing it thinner is because because we want to make sure that the hair is very saturated if you don't saturate the lightener through the entire section of hair then you will end up getting hot spots and someone would ask me about that and that is why you're getting hot spots it's a little circle down in here that didn't get processed and it's a little like a blob of color left in the hair and it looks kind of like a polka dot and we don't want post it off trust me so I'm going to do three of these really thin slices in a row [Applause] if you want a little bit thicker sections and you can take four and if you want a little bit thinner then you could do two but I would definitely do at least 2 to get the chunking effect because one would be you could do one but it would be very very subtle which could be very pretty too but if for this specific look we're doing a chunkier look okay so we have the three foils you can see it they're going to be a chunk about this thick and now we're going to take an equal sized chunk out and just a little stuck behind here there we go and just pull that forward and put the conditioner on it and that's going to help the next set of blonde the coils stick to it and it kind of keeps it up and out of the way so it keeps it really clean and if it was the brown you would just be you could take that whole section and just paint it brown all in one foil just make sure you get both sides if you were trying to do a brown and blonde chunk you need to be careful not to squish your foils because it will push the bleach the lightener and will push it back out of the soil onto the scalp and you don't want to do that so just make sure you're using gentle folds when you're folding it up and that you're not squishing the main part of the packet with all the color in it and if you're worried about it getting both sides you can roll it up and then down and that will kind of roll the hair shaft back and forth and get it completely coated and if a little bit of conditioner gets on it's okay the bleach will still it should stop you through it that sounds scary bleach eating through your hair scary actually if you need to go back and count then it's really easy if you were doing all of them foiled it would be easy to you just have to lift it up a little bit you could see the roots what ones or brown ones are blonde I'm going to show you another technique you can just leave the boils open like this if you want and this is really fast it takes a little bit more coils sometimes but you just lay them on top of each other and you take up your three sections you have to keep a little bit better track of your count with this because it's not as easy to pull up foils up and count on me well I guess counting is easy this is fine too and so you just keep stacking the foils on this is my last light one and this is really fun and this works great with long hair because you don't have to fold the foil you don't to waste that time folding the foil and then on the top this will be the conditioner section so you take the big one and then you just condition that all the way over same idea just kind of keeping it up and then the foil will stick to that and then you will just grab now over here this is a thicker section because I put the Mohawk section tilted to her part so keep that in mind that we're gonna have a little bit more hair that we're dealing with on this side if you've done it like that you can do it right down the middle if they don't part on the side like that and it would be more even but for her we're gonna have more hair over here she has some pink that she did in here a little bit ago and in the blonde sections I'm just going over it and hoping that it doesn't melt out because she wants to kind of get rid of some of it didn't sound good but I'm leaving the pink out in the brown and maybe we'll just recolor that oh that's going to be a lot lovely okay so now see this is where it can get confusing you gotta count how many oh here we go so we've done one two that's my third so we're gonna go on the conditioner one again and this is where the majority of her pink is anyway so we're gonna have a big brown chunk here big brown and pink junk so I can retouch this pink later on and brighten it up if she wants to keep it because we're not doing the brown if you were coloring the brown and this situation came up I would just put the brown color right over it and it would have a little bit of a pink undertone but the brown would make it blend so you wouldn't really be able to know that that at all I'm putting the bleach on the pink but because it's already been bleached out it should lift out pretty fast if it's not completely stained on there so I'm gonna have to go back through and check these long pieces after we get the color on and just take out the bleach off of the pink area so that doesn't get gummy and over-processed so that's kind of a little bit of a problem area that she doesn't want it anymore so we do need to take it out and you can see it's already lightening up this is what it was before so I'm just gonna keep a good eye on that as we work and check on it every couple minutes and I'll probably have to spray bottle those few little foils out just in the pink section or something we'll see how happens it's a little bit pink but I'm going to go ahead right here and just pick out the roots are okay cuz that means to be lying in tomorrow but just pick out the part that had the pink on it that's lightened now and I'm gonna put this on a towel and spray just this piece out just to save this hair because otherwise it will melt off I can promise you that and if you have a spray that has oh there's one I think Paul Mitchell makes it it's like no h2o2 and it takes kind of like neutralizes the action of the bleach but I'm gonna take this and just to protect it I'm gonna fold it out of the bleach and it's been sprayed off so that's what we're gonna do with anything that was bleached previously that cuz remember my rule you guys bleach it once it's blond bleach it twice it's gone I promise you this was lightened so light to that pale pale pale white color if we were not doing this it would turn into like bubblegum and just melt off just this little piece and that wouldn't be the end of the world because she has a lot of hair and she probably would not even notice but if you are aware of it you should try to save the hair because it's annoying to have this short little funky piece and your hair okay so now you can see the difference between these two techniques of the folding the foils and I think it looks really pretty to have them all nice and tight and you can move them a little bit this is a little bit more messy and it will drip a little bit you can take all the ends and just fold them over and you can even tilt the bottom of it up just to keep the color from running down because bleaches tend to swell and run a little bit especially when they start to get warm from the heat of the head so I'm just gonna fold it up and fold it back it's not as pretty that way but it was faster you notice that that side was a little bit faster now we're gonna move to the top we will be slicing the top also and right by her face I'm just going to take 1/4 of an inch and leave that out it's not going to be as big of a chunk as the sides where we did like a half of an because I want her to fill more blonde sorry oh how to use my phone there we go YouTube's blowing up from the hair video that teach me how to cut it you guys better go watch it like ten times memorize all the words so I wrote what a funny story when I was in beauty school the first time someone wanted chunks like this I thought that it was just a really thick leave and I didn't realize that it was actually just taking an entire slice they were like oh yeah I just sliced the hair the teacher was like yeah just slice it and I was like okay I'll slice it I didn't know what that meant like I got the hair out and I was like junk junk junk whatever that means um come to find out that slice is just the entire section goes in the foil and the entire section gets colored and I really don't know why that didn't click but it didn't and then I've never forgotten Elson cuz the girl was like my hair does not look stripy I wanted it kind of chunky and here's the thing if you do too many slices in a row it does look very stripy and I'm not a huge fan of that so I usually do on the top I'll do like the sides it's okay if those are straight because they're like this way and the hair is falling this way but on the top you have the part and it splits open and you will see these candy cane stripes if you do all of the foils a perfect slice like this and if they want that then that's cool but I think it's good to make it really different on the top and have a lot of variety so I'll do a thicker chunk and then I'll do a little bit of the natural left out and then I'll come back in here and this one will just be a really chunky weave so I'll just take like half like three big chunks maybe you leave out too Brown pieces and that will break up that line so it's not so stripy and then I'll yeah I'll tell you when I get to it so I think I did tooth boils I left out some brown then I did two foils of blonde then I left out like 1/4 of an inch of brown again and then I did a chunky blonde and then I'll leave a teeny bit like 1/4 of an inch of the brown again and then do another chunk like a 2 or 3 foil probably even a 3 foil this time to make it a really big chunk back here and I need more color I'm doing the same thing on top just layering I did the first few folded cuz I wanted to keep them away from her face as she could see but now she still can't see because I have all the hair in her face there we go it's always nice to let your clients use their eyes while they're getting their hair done by moving the hair and the foils away from their face so you can see them and talk to them even though we're not talking right now but you know you know what I mean this is gonna be a conditioner I better take some more because that was kind of thin for conditioner there we go so this is my nice that makes me feel really old cuz she's like a woman and she was just telling me that she was celebrating her seventh anniversary and she it's the seventh anniversary of her liver transplant she was born with a crappy liver right did not work right and so it's been seven years how are you doing I'm doing great still good yeah how many times have you been in rejection what she's doing really good right now so we were very happy and yeah there you go that's we were talking about so we've been doing this for 40 minutes now and we are just about to finish and it would probably have taken a little bit longer if you did the brown instead of the conditioner so yeah I'm not bragging I'm not like saying I'm the fastest in the world but that's just kind of give you an idea of how long the first foils have been on and if you feel like you were a slow with this then you're worried about the foils that we first started on right here processing a little bit too fast you can do 10 volume lower on the developer when you first start out and I'm gonna leave all of this brown this whole chunk we're done so we're gonna let this process I'm gonna stick her under the dryer because like I said this side over here has been on for 40 minutes I want to hurry and speed this up on the top and the side and just get it done as fast as we can I've gone through and sprayed out the the pink sections that were bleached out a little bit more there's still a little teeny tinge pink but that's better than gone so it'll be fine and we're gonna retouch the pink later on that's left out into the brown so I'm gonna stick her under the dryer so she processed under the dryer for 15 minutes with the meat and we are now ready to rinse it out and I think I'm gonna do a toner - I can come into town with a 9 do you want to be like a platinum a blonde or do you want to do like a like silvery blond to do the titanium or we could do let's do the titanium we're going to tone it with the 90 in the red can shades eq so we're doing one ounce of the 90 and a half ounce of the crystal-clear and one and a half ounces of the processing solution and then I'm just going to squirt this through the hair really quick and I just watch it with these because it can take on too much of the silver color if you let it process for too long tilt your head a little bit to the side there you go I'm gonna get it underneath here okay go ahead lay down you can see it's already starting to get that really white platinum color we're just going to watch it and fudge it in and make sure that it gets all over all of the blonde pieces it's stinky it's not so good though okay so as soon as you started if it starts turning gray you're gonna want to rinse it out really quick you wanted to rinse it out right before it starts to turn that ashy gray color and then I'm going to shampoo and condition just normally just whatever that's word that I'd made up normally it's not real word how did I say words and I don't know if they're real words or not words don't put this in the video please don't so now we have these pink chunks that we left alone that need to be refreshed and it will the ends will be a little bit deeper pink because it's not so light but I'm using these urban shock color craze hot pink it's from scruples and they smell really good but you apply them to clean towel dried hair and they're a deposit only so they aren't going to be lifting out the hair and that's why you should do these on bleached out hair or to refresh the color but since since we didn't really know that we wanted to retouch it until the end it's not gonna have the roots but it'll be okay maybe the next time she comes in we will bleach out the regrowth and then do it that time you don't have to do it every single time because it's underneath so this is something you could do every other time and I took that entire section and I'm just gonna make sure that I saturate both sides just by slipping over the foil and opening it the other way that exposes the underside that we couldn't see that was against the foil so and then foil that up and these process for I think 10 to 15 minutes let me make sure on that 15 minutes so as soon as these are done we will hurry and wash your hair one more time and then blow-dry it and you will see the finished product with the refreshed pink and the blond and the brown and it will be beautiful that's the end so to prevent the pink from bleeding into the blond pieces I just pulled the two foils out and kept them in my hand and washed them just in my hand separate from the rest of her hair because I want to make sure that I get all this pink shampoo pink color residue out and then I'm using a cold shampoo or a cold water and I'm going to keep doing this until the shampoo is not turning pink so this is the second time I've rinsed it out I'm gonna do it one more time make sure that we got all of that color residue out so we do not want this to be bleeding too much into the blonde and I'm also going to tell you Ashley you need to make sure that you wash your hair in cooler water for a little while so that you don't bleed this together and if you have a light pillow case I would probably switch it for a darker brown one just put red one while you sleep this can kind of leave a residue of color on your pillowcases and stain all right we are all done with her color and we've just styled it up we retouched your pink so I'm gonna show you a little bit about this or a little bit of this color now so you can see when she looks up she has some stripes but they're not all exactly perfect it's a little bit off but it's like different lengths and then this is really fun underneath here she has all these really chunky stripes they're very defined and that's what doing the vertical foils does and we'll show you this side over here without the pink and another thing that I want you to take note of is because we did the Mohawk on the flap she has really nice color all the way down to her scalp and if we would have just done the Mohawk right there that's where this one would have parted and she would have had dark roots because when the foils if you take a little bit too big of a section sometimes it'll look it would look more like that where you have a little bit of a space because the foil just lifts away from the head a little bit because it's starting to curve so that's a little trick that you guys can use and I hope that this was helpful for you guys and I hope you guys tried this on someone soon so that you can give them some chunky highlights and let me know how it goes and we'll see you next time make sure you subscribe to my channel and share it with your friends that are in hair school or anyone wanting to learn how to do hair and we'll see next time