[Applause] [Applause] hey welcome back to Bridal sewing techniques and today we're gonna talk about how to put in a sweetheart neckline into a straight edged bodice gown now this video I know it's a little long but there are so many different ways to do this then I wanted to divide this up into three different segments the first segment is going to show you how to make your own templates to make all different shapes of sweetheart necklines the second one I'm gonna let you watch me work and I chose a gown that had a lot of boning in it so you can see the process with that and then the third one is just gonna be a slide show of just you know your garden-variety sweetheart job I hope this helps section one no no these are not birds these are templates for sweetheart necklines I'm gonna teach you how to make those okay so I'm going to teach you how to make your own template different-sized sweetheart neckline but basically you just take a piece of cardstock and you fold it in half and this is gonna be your sinner seam okay this is actually one of my sewing rollers I couldn't find a craft roller so kids don't try this at home I'm gonna what I'm done I'm gonna have to wash the edge off here okay so you're gonna have to watch the edge off so I always make sure you do that if you use your roller with a pencil or a pen or something and you're not just like kind of mark and beside them and if you're dragging along you need to keep your ruler clean to keep the counts please so anyways what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna start with a sweetheart neckline that's only say an inch deep and then I'm gonna do another one that's like inch and a half deep all right and then I'm going to skip down and do one that is let's say should we do two inches deep you know let's do that okay so we've got an inch an inch and a half and two inches and then we're gonna have to pick our whip now every one of these templates is not going to work for every dress the the sizes of the dress varies so where those princess seams are like the two front seams that run down the in front of the bus that's gonna be different widths for different sizes and so if you have a larger dress the the two inch sweetheart let's say it had a total six inch span it really wouldn't necessarily look as deep or dramatic on a plus size grass and I got 22 or something compared to you know if you've had a very small girl that was a like a size for dress and you just did the one-inch step if the drama effect might be about equivalent for those dresses so everything's going to be in perspective and proportion and you're gonna basically want to hold these up in front of the dress if she can't decide you can also print this out I highly recommend doing this I often have to show my brides cannot visualize I have to show them the look of the sweetheart matching their skin tone so what you can do is get like scrap of papers you know the actual page of the papers that you buy it's like a dollar or something or a 12x12 or something like that so get it in varying shades of skin tone colors and then prints print this out and then you can kind of hold them off as a template for her on the dress so anyways let's do a just make this one an itty bitty with like a four inch span okay like that okay so let's do any five inch span like two and a half is the mill right okay and then let's do like a six inch span [Applause] all right so now we've got this and we're going to just sketch like this and pick a nice pretty shape some of them we're gonna have more of an arc some of them are less but I'm just gonna go ahead and kind of sketch out he's kind of seen like they look natural okay so sketch this or at the Disney sweetheart you're gonna upswing and then drop down a little faster you see how changing that ankle is really gonna change the drama of that sweetheart so I'm just kind of kicking you know how I want this to end up looking the style of it all so then what you do is you hold it like this and you cut it like you're making a souffle or something you're gonna cut it like this and then when you unfold it it's going to be symmetrical it's gonna be like a mirror image it's gonna have that centerfold that way you can align this with the center front of the gown but I wanted to show you how to make it because your bride may not want just 11.52 the spans may differ so a lot of times if a bride is very visionary you say okay how how deep do you want us to go and they can just pull you right to it I want it right here on their dress you know and so I just put a pin there and then I ask them if they're what kind of looks in there so did I want it nice and open like how do they want it and from there I can kind of pin the shape on draw a line with my parents on and if she's super visionary she can go buy that and I can make a template based on the direction that she has given me so I want you to understand how to make these because you're not just going to end up with these three sweetheart templates you're gonna end up over the years with a generous little pile of them as you can see this one's a little wider and deeper and this is just and then this one is deeper but it doesn't have long and have a very long span so they all have different little personalities and for our next segment I'm gonna let you watch me make a custom template for a dress according to the bride's direction and you'll get to see me shorten the boning I specifically picked a dress with a lot of boning so you could see that and you can see me cut and sew the sweetheart throughout this video you're gonna see three or four different dresses represented just to help you see the breadth of styles so this is the inside of the dress and the dress wrong side out to get to the the inner structure of it this is the lining this is the boning the canvas and then beyond that is the outer shell this bride wants a sweetheart neckline these two are at the top of her princessing so these are the highest heats of the dress she wants her sweetheart to be about two and a half inches deep so I'm sorry two in a corner so I'm going to take this piece of cardstock and I'm gonna make a little template so if she wants to an order the finished size I'm gonna need a little bit of a seam allowance the mark just a little beyond a little bit further than a quarter of an inch okay so going from the top here the Marvel heroes and have to cut that birdie here that's where that's gonna be so we're gonna have to have our template go from here to looking on the outside of the dress it was just on the inside of the princess seam she wanted this nice pretty little arm to be going on here so I live like this sketch boning is gonna get shortened and this is the canvas nobody's going to see that all right so you're gonna figure up from here to about right inside that princess scene we've got our Center we're gonna do it this is where we want to end up so we're gonna bump in a little bit on that too okay so this is going to be our art you really don't cut out very much fabric at all to end up getting a sweetheart you'd be surprised a two and a half inch or two and a quarter inch cut it's pretty significant but that's all we're gonna cut out it's really not going to look significant to us when we're cutting so this is cardstock a little bit harder to see through I'm shining up near my light and I can see my pencil my pencil line like that I'm gonna cut this out and use this template so this is cut out of course I used craft scissors knots not my sewing scissors as you all know and you can do it whichever way you prefer you can use spirit template this way or this way I prefer this way because it's a little bit smaller okay so you just place it make sure your lines are all good remember this has your seam allowance built-in you could do it the other way where it's like I've finished off the e1 and you're gonna cut to the outside of that but whatever I think it's a little safer [Applause] and sometimes your top piece here is curved one way or the other might have a little scoop in it I just make sure I line up at the top of the template with a way that makes sense to me for that particular dress and I do that the same on the other side that's the most important thing so we got a shorten this onion all right so full marks just include the seam allowance now the boning is gonna be the opposite we're gonna have to bump down this is where the seams gonna be then you got to give the dress some room to breathe so you're gonna really come down from that try to maintain the angle I'm cutting up a little higher on the blade of my knife some of my scissors cutting up here I don't wanna mess up my tip here there's that this is super thick dress so let me show you you know I have these little muslin stoppers here you can sew those down but another little trick I like to do these days are you know they're like individual sticks you're familiar with the way to work or not trying to get it to focus there there you go see their individual little plastic sticks in there and sometimes one will kind of break away and start working its way out and that's where it really starts to cut people and we don't want that so what I do make sure the fabric is very clear clear it away and I see it bubbling it's all fused together and then I'll put that Muslim stopper up there and that's going to keep it from Tavenner keep it from going through the fabric [Applause] I don't know if you can see it but each of those little sticks got me each of those little sticks start to melt and they'll fuse together in a long bubble that's gonna keep one for breaking away from the others it's just something I do really hurt anybody else do it weird little thing but it works really works on your bride so gotta get this stabilized together I got rid of my boning where I marked this so I'm gonna mark fresh this is a two and a quarter okay so this is to really make that clear right there as well we're cutting two so we need a cheer coach down well we can't have is say this back fabric like up or something and then we cut it look over on the back and we're horrified because oh there's cut the back and then steeper than the first you can't have anything like that Toby's parable I've never done anything like that thank goodness oh thank thank you Jesus never had anything to do like that but that's part of it you've got to the sowing you've got always pay attention what's going on on the back side all right Hut going from feeling around back here I know there's no monkey business going on still gonna cut inside of my line same cutting on the safe side of my line it's just where my peace of mind is at more accurate noble jury wallets and I love to mirror my fabric it helps so much Rick so you're rich that's the finished points get down to that turning back like right on here two and a quarter and then I just watch a whole order or thing enough with my other one because you will get a dress that comes along sometimes it's this far apart and the bride wants two and a quarter all right so now I'm gonna go in here and I'm gonna show this so starting just inside that princess scene so a long walk into line alright I'm gonna turn this right side out see on the other side all right so I flipped it right-side out and I've got it pinned because now we don't have this scene here anymore so this lining is just gonna roll right out so we're gonna have to hand stitch that down on the inside as I have it pinned and we're gonna press the edge making sure all these angles and arcs look just alike I'm gonna do a lot of this mirroring making sure they line up and look good then we're gonna look at it on the bride as well make sure it looks right with her because our bodies are asymmetrical also so we want to make sure all that looks good but overall I think it looks like it's gonna be pretty okay so for the third and final segment learning all about how to put in sweetheart necklines I'm just gonna give you a little slideshow of another dress that I did this is a much smaller sweetheart as you can see I found my Center I've got the dress cut out pinned to stabilize it so you can see the face a little more details I sketched around the templates on this one I am stitching first and cutting second again it doesn't really matter which order you do this in and I'm using the left invisible zipper foot for this one there's that little tiny piece that gets cut out and you can see I made the notch for the center of the sweetheart there's the notch and then there's a couple other snips just to help the dress deal with the curve there and then finally you need to turn it right-side out and you need to kind of roll that lining in and put some tacks all along the edge these are nice and bumpy lots of shadows going on here so you can see the detail of how I hand cinch that but you're gonna want a hand stitch that down and then press it and then of course it won't look that bumpy pressing it will cause it to smooth right out and keep it from rolling I hope this has helped you please hit like share and subscribe hit the little bell if you want to be notified every time I upload a new video