While reconstructing a pitcher's mound can
be labor-intensive, the job can be fairly simply with a little know-how and some capable
helpers. You'll need some tools for the job, as you
see listed here, not all are required but having them will make your job a lot easier. Your materials list should include these items. For professional results, we recommend Turface
athletic clay and conditioners. The first step in the process is to take your
measurements. This will allow you to verify the placement
of the pitching rubber in relation to home plate. To start, drive an 18-inch spike at the apex
of home plate, then tie your twine 10 inches above the surface of the plate. Drive another 18-inch spike behind the second
base peg, and tie off your line 10 inches above the skin. Be sure the string is tight. The top of the pitching rubber needs to sit
exactly 10 inches above the level of home plate, so you'll use the string to make sure
that it's positioned correctly. To locate the correct placement of the pitching
rubber, measure 60 feet 6 inches from the apex of home plate to the mound, then sink
an eight-inch nail directly below the line. This will mark the front center placement
of the new pitching rubber. Next, you need to verify that the diameter
of the mound is still accurate. From the nail you just put in, measure out
18 inches toward home plate, and drive another eight-inch nail under the line. This will mark your exact center of the mound. Using your measuring tape, measure out nine
feet from the nail to the outer edge of the mound, use athletic field paint to outline
the diameter of the mound. If you have any turf that's inside the paint
line, you'll want to remove it and clear any debris. At this point you can remove the old pitching
rubber. You may be able to use the existing rubber
as long as it's in good shape and has two clean edges. Just rotate the worn side to the bottom. On this particular job, we chose to use a
brand new rubber. Remove enough material from the hole left
over by the old pitching rubber to make room for the new one. Allow for a couple of inches of new clay to
create a level base to work from, then tamp down firmly. Since a regulation-size pitching rubber is
six inches tall, the distance from your base to the string line should be six inches. Now that you've prepared the area, pack the
inside of the new rubber with clay. This will not only support the structure,
but will give it added weight to keep it in place. Mark a line down the exact center to help
you with alignment. Place the rubber so that the front edge is
touching the eight-inch nail that you used to mark its placement. The center line should sit directly under
the string. Add or remove clay to level the rubber so
that the string is resting on top. You will likely need to make small adjustments
until the pitching rubber is level both front to back and side to side. To confirm that the pitching rubber is square
to home plate, take measurements from the front left corner of home plate to the front
left corner of the pitching rubber. Do the same to the right side, making sure
that both measurements are the same. Once the pitching rubber is in place, add
a few inches of clay around it, pack it down, and lock it in. At this point you can lay out the pitcher's
table. The table should be five feet wide, three
feet deep, with the front edge six inches from the front side of the pitching rubber. Excavate or add loose clay as needed until
you reach a level that allows the clay block to sit about a half inch below the rubber. It is extremely important that you remove
all loose debris and sweep the entire surface of the mound thoroughly after excavation,
now you can form the new table. Start by lightly moistening the area so the
new clay will adhere to the base. Use loose mound clay to make a level surface
and pack it down with a tamper. Be careful not to disturb the pitching rubber. The loose clay should be applied in one-inch
layers, tamping as you go. Shake on a layer of AquaSmart Pro. This is a super-absorbent, polymer-coated
sand that will help the clay retain moisture over a longer period of time. Moisten the area again. Then start adding the MoundMaster blocks. Begin with the area around the rubber, making
sure that the blocks are tightly fitted together. Fill in the remaining space with blocks, then
pack it all down with a tamper. Add another layer of AquaSmart and finish
by spreading mound clay over the entire area, making enough for it to fill in any open seams,
and then tamp it all down. Once you have the table completed, you can
start on the slope and the landing area. The slope needs to be as wide as the pitching
rubber, which is 24 inches, and should extend seven feet toward home plate. This will also mark the front edge of the
landing area. The size of the landing area should be wide
enough to support a pitcher's follow-through. Five to six feet wide and three to four feet
deep should be sufficient. Now that the slope and landing area are marked
off, excavate three inches to make room for the new blocks. Follow the same procedure as the table by
adding loose clay, AquaSmart, and blocks until the area is completely filled in and packed
down. Keep in mind that the slope should drop one
inch for every foot from the front edge of the table to the end of the landing area. You can use your line to make sure that the
drop is sufficient by taking measurements at one-foot increments. Once the table, slope, and landing area are
complete, moisten the entire mound. Be careful not to flood it. You just want enough water so that you can
apply the last layer of clay without it clumping up. Open your remaining bags of mound clay and
cover the entire surface of the mound. Use a landscape rake to get an even layer
over the entire area. Finish by tamping or you can use a sod roller
to make the job go a lot quicker. The final step in the process is to give your
mound a professional look by covering it with a layer of Turface conditioner. The purpose of the conditioner is to help
retain moisture in the clay. Spread the conditioner with a rake to make
sure you have an even coating. Give the mound a good soak, and cover it with
a tarp to hold in the moisture. You have a professional pitcher's mound that
will allow your players to perform at their very best and reduce your maintenance as the
season plays out. All the materials and tools used for this
mound reconstruction can be found at your local Ewing branch. You can also visit us online at ewingirrigation.com.