in the workshop how to convert a locomotive tender hand pump to a standalone version and what do I mean by standalone while I mean a self-contained pump with unions on the inlet and outlets this type of hand pump is meant to be inside the water tank of a tender and that's why the inlet for the water on the pump is just a hole in the bottom because this is normally totally immersed in water so the water enters the pump through this hole but this design is really no good for what I need for this installation I need to fit a pipe union on the inlet to the hand pump which will be fed with water from a remote water tank I could quite easily make a right angled water fitting and threaded 5-6 things by 32 but here's what I prepared earlier I just looked in my box of bits and I found an old Stewart clack weld so I had to do was thread the water inlet five sixteens by twenty six threads per inch to suit the clock valve because it is 26 threads per inch and not 32 threads per inch as with the CM e standard clamp bolts cmeek like valves are also available from black gates engineering now that is a 90 degree union sticking out of the pump as you can see the pump is not going to sit level on any surface so I need to make an extender block on which to mount the pump and this extender block in turn will be screwed down to the baseboard so I'm cutting the block on my old bandsaw it's a bit old a bit rough and it's not very good to look at but it does the job just like a girlfriend no one's had at this stage I thought it would quickly insert a view of the castle v6 boiler before going over to the milling machine to clean up the block that I've just cooked from this piece of bar stock I'd like to take this opportunity whilst the milling machines during extinct to apologize for the sound on this video currently I'm recording this voice over in the studio but there are a couple of machines on doing a major backup of about half a terabytes with the data which is not a lot but it appears to be quite a lot whilst it's going over the network and while the backup is taking place you're currently watching me milling the top of this steel block and the milling cutter is in my very old Jacobs Chuck which is very stiff and it never works loose and it's just convenient to clamp it in there I could use an hour a collet or even my Clarkson milling chuck but for general bits of milling this is perfectly acceptable I just put the milling cutter into the drill chuck and tighten it up and it never works loose although at this point I must add that if I was doing an important piece of milling alike on my casting I would probably use the milling choke this is quite a nice effect it looks like something from a science fiction film all I've done is put some three in one oil on the top surface and as the metal chipping is coming off the steel are very very hot the oil smokes just like you can see here and the effect is even stranger if I speed up the video I must confess that I'm guilty of not applying sufficient cooking lubricant to pieces of metal that I'm cutting either in the lathe or in the milling machine but then again this smoke coming off the parts can't be good because obviously I'm breathing it in and thankfully now I'm not breathing it in because I finished the block and the pump is sat on the block what I'm doing here is using a felt-tip pen and I'm blackening each corner of the piece of metal and that's so when I scribed the marks through the holes of the pump our bill to see them and I do not have a right angle scriber note to self next time I got to blog it's engineering by one I'm currently using the points of a pair of tweezers which is not ideal but it does the job and in this clip I'm scribing lines between the mark points just to make sure that they are in the correct place and they seem to be it's always a good idea to do this just to verify that all the markings are fully in line with each other because the other alternative is to drill the holes in the wrong place and you don't want to do that from time to time I still drill holes in the wrong place and I'm not perfect at this not by a long way but with years of experience my eyes are reasonably well calibrated as usual and standing up with a center drill to spot the holes in the correct position and then by setting the depth stop of the drilling machine it allows me to drill the holes all to the same depth I'm going to thread these holes 6ba and I'm currently using a number 48 drill for this this is a very small drill bit so I'm trying not to put too much pressure on it as I don't want it to break off in the hole now I'm going to thread these holes using a 6b a tap and the lubricant that I'm squirting onto the upturn tobacco tin is my usual lubricating oil that a makeup from 1000 grade steam oil 50 percent three-in-one machine oil 25 percent and the magic ingredient rapeseed oil or canola oil and this makes up the other 25 percent I find this oil mixture to be really effective when lubricating the bearings of steam engines it's just a bonus it's also very good for the lubrication of taps and dies when thread cutting and in no time at all I have 4 6 ba threads in the corners of the metal block now it's time to use some Loctite 603 to hold these four brass bolts in place and because he used the depth stop on the drilling machine when I drilled the holes all I have to do now is screw the brass bolts in place into the holes as far as they'll go once all of the bolts were screwed into place in the block I used my band saw to cut the heads off the bolts because I don't need the heads in place I'm actually making studs studs can often look a lot better than little bolts and far better than slotted screws so here's the pumped sat on its block and all I have to do now is simply bolt the pump to the block but not just yet I need to drill a couple more holes because the block itself will need to be screwed down to the baseboard and checking the dimensions from my steel ruler before I commit myself and drill the holes all the way through and as usual a pilot the holes using a center drill in this clip I'm making doubly sure that the hole is in the correct position before I start fully drilling the hole with the center drill once that centered ruled the first hole I just warmed the crosswise into position soccer drill the second hole after the center drilling had been completed I drilled the holes all the way through with a 3/16 of an inch dam to drill I have two choices I can fasten this component down onto a metal plate using a pair of countersunk to be a bolts or alternatively I can screw the component down onto the wooden baseboard using a couple of wood screws obviously I do have to use countersunk bolts because if I don't use countersunk bolts the pump isn't going to fit on top of the block so what you need to do now is countersink the holes and as you can see from this clip once again I'm using my oil mixture to lubricate the countersink and once again I use the depth stop on the drilling machine to make sure that both of the character sinks were identical I'm about to paint this component and to stop the paint from getting on the threads I'm using some old silicon rubber tubing and don't ask me why that's the way it was bought many years ago as field tubing for a model aircraft before they start to paint this path I'm just removing any burrs from around the edges of the countersink using a needle file and now I'm blowing away any particles with an airline a bit of health warning on this if you're going to use an airline to blow particles or pieces of metal do wear eye protection and now in the outer part of the workshop right next to the boilers base I'm painting this block with edge primer and as usual this is precision paints edge primer as I've shown in previous videos and another health and safety warning if you're doing a job like this particularly with a primer that's very nasty you need to wear a breathing mask and any painting should always be carried out in a very well ventilated area while I was in painting mode in the outer part of the workshop I thought it was a good time to give the boiler base a coat of black paint this is HMG satin black and it's really good paint and that's about it for this episode in a couple of days when the paint's dried and hardened I built to mount the parts to a baseboard and I'll be able to test how effective a coal fire is in the v6 boiler but for now thanks for watching and I hope you found it useful