how's it going guys this is going to be the second installment on the wet-sanding series today we're going to take care of some pretty significant oxidation but before we get started over the holiday weekend I had a chance to relax a little bit to catch up on some YouTube videos and I came across a channel that has great enthusiasm for our industry so I'll put a link down below stop by give them some love this kid has such energy and zest for the detailing community and industry itself after watching a couple videos I got to take a short nap the kid has so much energy so yeah that's going to be enough yapping let's get on with the video this is what we're working on today some heavy oxidation pretty much on the whole vehicle but we're going to take care of the right side of the fender here today we're going to be working with sheets of sandpaper instead of the disks I always keep them soaking keeps them clean keeps them hydrated and for the block today we're going to use a magic eraser nice and simple just wrap it around firmly this gives us a nice sanding block to work with that also has a little give to it soft enough to have a little gives at the contours of your the panel you're working on we're starting off with 3000 grit and we're going to work in an up and down motion throughout the whole panel let you in on why vertical motions to start with here but as for pressure it's going to be light to medium and as with all sanding jobs do a little do little area stop check your work see how it's cutting is the paint hard or soft this little sanding block does well getting the angles of the fender without weighing heavily on the high points of the angles you want to stay away from them and just skim over them lightly because remember peaks and the high points of angles usually have the least amount of clear and paint off with the 3000 grit back in the bucket that goes we're going to clear off the area clean up the residue and get ready for the next step I always use an old terry cloth instead of a good microfiber clearing off the residue in between steps because I know I'm going to have to polish it afterwards so it's it's not going to do any harm okay let's apply the 5000 grit to our block number with the 3000 grit we went in an up-and-down vertical motion with the 5000 we're going on a horizontal left to right why do we do that we want to work the 5000 grit until we see no more marks from the 3000 grit we want to see no signs whatsoever of the 3000 grit and that's going to be the best way to go about stepping down five thousand grit you can apply some decent pressure I often have to repeat this step because it takes a little time to get the five thousand grit to get you where you want to be just have a little patience already you can see the panel lightning up a bit and that's before we even get the Polish out clean the area thoroughly for the next step before you grab the Polish get a good angle use the light and make sure there's no deep scratches or marring and it's time to polish we're going to use a fine cutting polish here just to show you how easy it is to finish it off from this point we're going to use screws garage three inch polisher looks decent but I'm gonna go over it one more time you okay let's wipe it down and I'll bring in for a closer look the difference is night and day and at this point there is no way to blend this in I'd have to do the whole vehicle now now if the customer had in the budget to fix scratches like this just revert back to the first video I showed you how to take care of those and now the whole thing is oxidation free you okay that's going to be about it for this video the next installment will be on blending in and that is when you have a small scratch on a large panel and you don't want to wet sand the whole panel itself you're going to just touch to that area and we're going to blend it in with the rest of the panel make it inconspicuous ride from apex detail we'll catch you next time you