Artificial intelligent assistant

Please explain how to: draft blazer bodice patterns | kim dave

what's up guys and welcome back to the channel my name is Priscilla and in this video I am going to be showing you how to drops the patterns for a blazer so I made this blazer roughly two months ago and a lot of you guys really really really wanted to see the tutorial on how I did the patterns so I took a while doing this video because I made the patterns for this jacket like in my second year of fashion school so this was like a year ago and I actually have forgotten how to make the pattern so I had to like dig out my books and my schoolwork refresh my memory before coming back to the channel to show you guys how to do the pattern so thank you so much for your patience thank you for waiting and thank you for all of the love and support so if you'd like to see how I made this pattern keep watching if you are new and this is your first time seeing my gorgeous face thank you thank you for coming to the channel you know that red button I think you should be here or there one of these corners just click through and subscribe so you get notified every single week whenever I have new videos up on the channel if you're right oh gee I need to create seats for my og so I can't do well with me because you guys are the real deal thank you so much for coming back to the channel and without further ado let's jump straight into this tutorial we will need the following tools for this tutorial I have gotten myself all the essential bits the most important thing being pattern paper so I have this clear white pattern paper which I'm going to be using and then I also have my pattern my style which has the curved end that is very important and I also have a set square for straight lines I've got myself tab major pen pencil eraser and the Schaffner and to trace out my body dimensions I got myself my t-shirt and I just pressed that down and folded it in half because I'm going to be tracing around this to start off the process so the first thing I'm going to do first is to roll out some pattern paper and cut out the amount I need and then I'm going to fold the t-shirt in half and talking the sleeve to trace out the front panel so this is a bit tricky because the material is quite flimsy but I just had to make it work somehow so I talked to see literally into the t-shirts to be able to get the armhole sort of curve off the t-shirt then I fold that in the neckline and any other excess bit from the back that would confuse me so I'm just going to go ahead and trace around the front panel of the t-shirts and I'm only tracing half of this because when you cut in the fold you sort of get the same thing on the other side I'm going to do the same for the back as well just roughly trace around with the pencil we're going to refine these lines later on using the patent master so just using the pattern masters I'm doing here I'm going to refine those dashed lines I made earlier on just to make them clear and easier to work with so once I'm done drawing those lines I'm going to change the shape of the armhole as you can see it's not as curved as a front armhole should be and my body is not straight so I'm going to adding all the necessary dimension to change it the way I want the first thing I'm going to do is to drop the shoulder line by one centimeter and extend the arm hole by two centimeters in the bottom so I'm going to draw the armhole a bit out and a bit more curved because the front of your body has more curve compared to your back so I'm also going to change up the waistline what you would do here is take your body dimensions your waist and your hip and you divided by four to get your waistline and your hip line measurements and once you do that you just connect those points together and you would get the front panel that looks sort of like this everyone's buddy varies so I'm also going to mark where my waistline is mine is 38 centimeters from my shoulder line and I'm going to draw a line across from the sides to the center front so I know where the waistline is exactly so this is what the front draft sort of looks like and once you sort of have this front draft it's easy to recreate or plan out any designs you want to be in the front of your jacket once you're satisfied with the front it's time to work on the back essentially just going to repeat the same thing so the first thing you do refine and make those dashed lines you made earlier on more visible and cool they're adding your waist and hip dimensions from the waistline and just indicate that that is the back of the jacket plan so this is the front in the back I just added not just on the armhole so it to be easy to put on sleeves later on if I would like to do that so the next thing that we're going to be working on is to actually create the panels that this jacket has so the jacket has multiple panels in the front and in the back and that's what makes the jacket design really interesting so the front panel has three different sides a top and two want two sides that make the left and the same thing for the right so according to the plan or the job the jacket design here we are going to follow that sort of lead and the first thing we're going to be doing is to sort of make a dart do the side ones and then before going on to walk ahead on the lapel and the collar so the first panel we're going to be creating is the top front panel which is a diagonal line that goes from the neck to the armhole you can decide how wide you want this to be or how small so the next one is a front side panels which is sort of like a dart and the first thing we do here is to mark the middle point of your waistline and then mark one centimeters on either sides and just draw a line that passes through that middle point of your waistline and then you mark your bust point because you want the jacket to be fitted only around your waist or not all the way across before going ahead to create your dart lines starting from your boss point to your waist line and then on to your hem so what you're doing with this dart is you're taking in two centimetres from your waist to make it fitted so the next thing we're going to be working on is the neckline and the first thing I'm doing here is to drop the neckline by three centimeters draw in a new neckline because the first one is just way too high so the next thing we'll be working on is the lapel and to do this we'll be extending the center front by four centimeters because we want a bit of an extension to fold back into the jacket and then we'll connect that four centimeter mark down to the waistline from 2 cm so let me say that again you connect that 4 cm mark down below to the waistline 2 centimeters below us you can see here so after this we sort of know what the front panel is looking like you can see it has 2 & 3 which would be traced out separately and joined on together moving on to the back panels of this jacket design as you can see it has a top back panel which will be walking on first so to do this I'm going to Matt 15 centimeters down from the center back and create a curve that looks somewhat like this you can I didn't make you us more rounded or make yours a bit flat the choice is yours so that is the first panel that we are going to create the second one is the side panels which are two panels by the side of the back and to do this what sort of way to be doing the same thing we did for the francis mac a middle point draw a straight line and create darts but there are no buzz points in the back so you are going to create the dart that goes all the way from the midpoint of that waist line we made to the bottom of the curve of the top panel so this is what the back sort of looks like right now it has one two and three panels and the part that sort of create like lines across is where we don't want to trace out when it's time to trace out the different pieces of the jacket or the blazer pattern pieces so this is what the front and the back of the plan looks like on this all done just makes tracing out the path the pieces a whole lot easier because as long as it's all within piece one you trace out that part for piece one and do the same for piece two not including the shaded bits I have done here you do the same for the front and for the back so by the time you trace out all the different pieces and put them back together you get the the pieces the panel for the front and the panel for the back and so on and so forth so for this for example you trace out just that part for the top and you cut that piece on the fold you do the same for the top and the center back because you want to have one piece so now it's time to create the Revere color which is marked in blue in this illustration here and to do this we are going to trace off the front neckline onto a fresh piece of patterned paper dice underneath so I'm just taping down the plan here so it doesn't move and it's time to trace I'm going to trace from that shoulder point to that Center front point along this line here not that first line new neckline we created so I'm just indicating where the shoulder line stops as well as the center front mock so I'm just taking the paper off and I'm going to draw those lines and using my patent master and a pencil move on to the next step so one the line is drawn in the next thing that we will be doing is to draw a line so this is a bit tricky to explain but you're going to draw a line 45 degrees from the start of that curve and the line is going to be 5 centimeters long and you would understand the reason for that as we go along so this particular step I did wrong and I realized and I was doing the voice of I did it wrong I was supposed to trace from the shoulder points to the center but I'm not from the center back to the shoulder point but it sort of doesn't matter because the shape of the line changes later on once you've traced out that back neck line I am going to be using my patent master to draw in the line and the line is going to be a continuation from that front one we did earlier on so I'm going to square out from the end of the curve which is drawing Lachie drawing a straight line perpendicular to the curve and connect that line to the first line we did to create a shape that looks like this so as you can see that curve we made earlier on is being changed to a square to allow for the Revere color to fold when you've attached it to the neckline of the jacket so as you can see here the last line is 7 centimeters in dimension and the curve is a combination of the front and the back so I'm going to go ahead and trace out all of this panels or for the front or the back because the idea is you're going to cut different pieces of fabric and join them back together to make your blazer so at this point you can be creative with fabrics with colors with textures you can just have fun and that was what I did in my blazer pattern tutorial that you guys loved so much and I'm grateful for that so once I've traced out all the pieces I need including my back facing that is so so important and crucial as well as a front facing which is identical to the front panel of the jacket indicating my grain lines as well I am going to add my 1 centimeter seam allowance all around the pattern pieces except those ones are going to be caught on the fold such as centre back piece for the top panel and the bottom panel as well so I'm just going ahead and working in those one centimeter seam allowance is what I need but for the hem I added 3 centimeters because I wanted to fold it in and create those creative stitches that I did in my blazer pattern so once I'm done adding all of my seam allowances I am going to go ahead and cut out the pattern pieces not cutting the original line but cutting on the seam allowance line because the seam allowance is what allows you to join the pieces back together again so I'm just carefully cutting out the different pieces of the pattern all the separate bits and as you can see I've added notches and you understand why notches are a lifesaver especially when you have so many pattern pieces for one garment so I'm just quickly going to cut out all of the separate parts and pieces using my scissors ensuring those pattern pieces are as accurate as possible so if the scissors is sharp cutting is easier and you should have a fabric scissors and a paper scissors so these are the final pattern pieces your total of 9 pattern pieces for this jacket design excluding the sleeves so the front has two side panels which look like this the front one which has that extended bit that is going to be folded back into me Capel the side which is going to be attached like this to create the whole side piece that you have and the front which is going to be joined on to the side so that knot right there indicates that that piece belongs to that piece and this joint at that point and that is the Revere color which is added on last and for the Revere color you need a pair and a whole piece as well if you watch my blazer tutorial you would see what I mean so I also caught myself a front-facing which is essentially the same shape as that first front piece which has the extended bit for the lapel the only difference is the front facing has the whole of the neckline and is extended to the shoulder as for the side you're going to cut that side on the fold to have one piece and two pieces for the side which will be joined all together to that top back panel and as you can see I've put on a notch there which shows that that piece belongs to those two at the bottom I've also got myself a back facing which is going to be joined on to the front facing to finish off the neckline of the color I'm not going to show how to make a sleeve but there are two type of sleeves for blazer or tailored jacket a one-piece leave on a two-piece sleeve so please check the description box for links to those tutorials as I am NOT going to be sharing them in this video also to be super super long but I hope you guys enjoyed watching all the same and you learned something if you have any questions ideas or suggestions please feel free to ask them down below and on to my next video have a good morning afternoon and evening wherever you are bye

xcX3v84RxoQ-4GxG32940ukFUIEgYdPy 73630033c9eec56d1700df39d684124c