hey guys I'm John Lackey and welcome back to part 2 of my reclaimed wood buffet in this part I'm going to be building all the doors and drawers the drawer fronts and assembling the rest of the carcass so here are starting to mill all the lumber for the door fronts and I'm going to be using same reclaimed wood what I'm doing is rough cutting everything down to a three inch width and then I'm going to use tongue and groove joinery to put the doors together with a floating panel a reverse raised panel actually in the center this is just a bad angle that I thought will quake or worsen I'm sorry about that so here you can see I'm reselling down the pieces and you could see a little bit better of an angle on how I go about that but once I have them down to three inches it's a pretty quick work I actually resaw them down to a little heavy over 3/4 of an inch and that way I can sand them down to the final dimension once I'm down the rough width and thickness it's over to the miter saw to cut everything down to length after I got everything cut down the size I'm going to go ahead and cut all of the slots for the Tenon's and the center panel in every piece that is going to be in the door joinery and then after this I will go back and cut all the Tenon's that will join the tops and the bottoms of all the rails and styles together so for this part I'm going to be using the table saw and the miter gauge to cut my Tenon's and you can see here I just set the fence to the depth of the 10 and 9 1 and then I just slowly pull the piece back and run it over the saw blade to cut the arm cut the tendon size that I want i before I did this I took a test piece and made sure that it fit in all the slots so I had the saw blade rose to the height that I needed to be so moving on to gluing up the panel's I have everything rough cut and what I'm going to do here is use a tape joint with some gap rapid fuse this stuff dries in 30 minutes and makes it so I can continue to work on the project and not have to glue these panels up overnight so you could check out that here it's pretty simple and I apologize for the camera I was still learning how to use this bad boy when I shot this once the door panels are dry over there with the Rotex and I'm just handing them down the flat the Rotex is a great tool for reclaimed wood or any wood I would suggest hogs out the material pretty quickly and have some pretty awesome dust collection as you can see there I get them down to as flat as I can and then I'm going to head over to the table saw to cut the angled edges that'll make it fit inside the door panel so here I have the blade angled away from the scent and I'm just taken away uh parts of the panel's slowly in order to get that quarter-inch groove that's inside all the rails and Stiles and I'll raise the blade gradually after I run each piece through in that way I don't have any it makes it less dangerous I don't have any ridiculous tear out or any issues with that make sure you use a feather board if you do this like this too and once they're all cut it's back over to the roto text to clean them up a bit before they go into pre finish you can see the angle I ended up cutting and raising the blade didn't get the footage there I guess the camera died but I ended up cutting probably a two and a half inch high cut on the angle I pre finish everything because these doors will move inside of the rails and styles so pre finishing them you don't reveal an unfinished line in the door as the movement it curves over time here I'm just putting the doors together I have them pre laid out and mocked up in case I had to do any trim work on the Tenon's um and then I just go ahead and assemble them I use a lot of glue and here I'm using a clamp to make sure that they stay square on the bottom slide in your panel and then slide in the top style I believe that's a style sorry my terminologies off by sliding in and then what I do is I flip the door over and I pin it from the back with a 5/8 inch 23 gauge pin nail and what that does is just sets the tenon inside of the mortise or inside of its slot and it helps it to stay there as a drive so I don't have to keep them in clamps after that i flatten them with the Rotex you can also use a belt sander here or excuse me a drum sander and that's a nice quick tool and a good use and application for it they're super disappointed I lost the footage but what I ended up doing was building my drawers out of reclaimed wood and using finger tones it's a pretty standard procedure and there's a lot of tutorials out there to learn how to do it on so I would suggest googling one of those if you want to learn how to do a thing or doing but and I'm sorry that I lost that footage there but here you can see another tighter angle on the joint itself the Rotex brings that down pretty quickly and then my drawers are ready to roll back over to the carcass just for a quick standing and then we're going to be assembling the trim work and fastening that to the carcass once I have the carcass handed down I'm taking my trim boards and these are three quarters of an inch thick by four and a quarter inches tall and what I'm doing is running them over the shaper with a coating bit and the coating bit will put a nice little rounded B on the top and then I'll cut them down to the four inches that I want for the height I used some pretty banged up pieces here with some cool knocking stuff in them and then I went overhead and mitered one side after the one sides mitered I assembled the trim work on the base of cabinet and that's pretty self-explanatory onto finishing all the doors and the drawer fronts I'm just using a Minwax stain I don't use a stain sealer or a pre stain when I'm doing reclaimed wood because I do like to see the variations and how the wood takes the stain once I have the doors and drawers on the rack I'm back over to staining the rest of the carcass you can see how the trim work assembled here and I did do a coating molding on the top rail which I made out of one inch by one inch square piece of stock doing the same process cutting it wide and then trimming it down on the table saw on the shaper excuse me here I'm making sure I get stain in all the cracks and crevices pretty self-explanatory I'm a most positive most people watching these videos have stained something before but this is my process and using a foam brush and I'm just making sure it's in every crevice I can get it into here I'm applying general finishes enduro bar I'm loving this finish and if you guys are interested in what I use for reclaimed wood I'll tag my last video which are my tips and tricks on how I finish reclaimed wood but here you can see it spray is nice and evenly and gives an a beautiful build and I really like that part of it to attach the doors I like to use my Craig system and this system is pretty good it's pretty DIY and makes it really easy in mobile um here I'm just using their Hardware fastening jig I line it up at the three inch mark and then I have it Desktop set I drill it down comes out nicely and then I do the same thing on all four of the doors using their new clamping system makes it go pretty quickly too and I'm just working on top of the carcass here because we had stuff all over the shop this day once all of the holes are drilled I attach the door hinges and then I'll go ahead and attach those to the carcass here I'm using Blum soft closed door hinges it's because I had them on hand left over from another build and the interior rail you're going to want to use a frameless hinge and on the exterior rail you're going to use a 3/4 inch framed hinge there are two different fasteners but they all go into the door the same way they just attach to the carcass differently and like I said Here I am mounting one of the doors on the outside and knees use a 3/4 inch interior mounted plumb hinge and just mount a little bit differently so I mess around with it to get it into place and then I had to shim it out of that here was what you're seeing I'll go ahead and screw that into the side panels on the door carcass and we're ready to install the drawers after I attach all the slides and rails I just go ahead and mock up to the drawer front itself I apply some double-sided tape to the back of the drawer front and I squeeze it in the place I didn't have a consistent gap around on this one so what I ended up doing was using a hand plane to get it into place and then making sure the gap was even I screwed it in and then came back and touched it up with stain and finish after the fact now I don't recommend doing things this way hence why it's not on camera but sometimes you just gotta improvise because you messed up in your measurements before you fabricated the piece I'm using a 1 inch screw with a button head to attach drawer fronts and they should stay on there forever so you'll see I'm just messing around attaching the drawers on the rest of the way in and messing with a little bit of adjustment there and that's about it the client is has the top on site as well as the hardware on site so I can't install that in this video but I want to thank you guys for tuning in and checking this one out it was a fun build and I'm glad I could do something from the complete beginning without using a single piece of plywood and show you guys how to build a cabinet with some awesome reclaimed timber if you want to see a full write-up you can head over to my website john malechy comm or i'll have links in the description for as well as more links to the tools and the tips i have in this video for you guys to go ahead and build your own until next time guys keep building and thanks for watching