let me show you how I made this easy to make Val a box I'm starting with the sepiolite board that is 2 inches thick and measures 7 and 3/4 inches wide and 18 inches long I will be able to get all the parts I need from this one board by reselling it at the bandsaw I'm drawing a center line to guide me while I resaw this board at the bandsaw now that the pieces have been resolved I let them sit overnight before milling in the final thickness I plan the side pieces down to a half-inch in the bottom panel down to a quarter inch in thickness with the pieces at the final thickness I cut the side pieces to two and a half inches in width I clean up any saw marks using my hand playing a music man number four smoothing plane I'm using my number four to remove any milling marks left on the planer this will smooth the boards and allow me to bypass a majority of the same I'm having to glue up two pieces for the bottom panel since I don't have a single board that is wide enough with the mitre already cut on one side I mark the final wing I sneak up on my mark giving me the perfect length without moving the board I turn the saw off and bump the stop block up to the back of the board allowing me to cut the other side piece to the exact same length I'm putting my dado blades in to cut the groove for the bottom panel I use a quarter-inch brass bar to help me set the height of the blades the groove will be 1/4 inch from the bottom and a quarter inch deep now that the glue is dried on the bottom panel I use my hand plane to smooth the surface and to remove any glue at the miter saw I cut the panel to its final size now it's time to glue up the box I lay the box parts face down and apply a painter's tape on the back to act as clamps since I'm using a solid wood for the bottom panel I don't put any glue in the grooves this will allow the wood to move during season chains my box was a little out of square so I used some quick clamps on the ends of the box to try to fix that problem the glue is now dried so remove the clamps and the tape I guess it didn't check during the glue up but the Box sides weren't exactly flush I use my number four to flush the top but I will show you a simple jig that you can build that will allow you to use sandpaper all you need is a flat board some carpet tape and sandpaper I put a couple of pieces of double-sided carpet tape on a flat board in the video I'm using a piece of melamine it's a nice flat surface that you can reference I cut three strips of 120 grit sandpaper make sure your sanding board is wide enough for your box I use the pencil to mark the bottom of the box and when the pencil mark is gone I know I've got the bottom flat using even pressure push the box back and forth removing stock from the body be careful not to push too hard after about ten seconds stop and check the progress it may take you a few sessions of sanding to get it flat if you have some gaps in your lighters mix this fine dust with some glue and fill the gaps I round over all the edges with a one-eighth inch roundover bit at the router table I'll flip the box over and round over the edges on both the inside and outside panels where the areas that the router bit couldn't reach I used a chisel and some 120 grit sandpaper to round the edge I'm marking the location for the my turkeys I'm using my quarter-inch dado stack set to quarter-inch high to see how I made this my turkey jig check simple cocom for size Shawn I'll also leave a link in the description box below I'm using quarter-inch thick maple for the my turkey slots I just cut remember that fine sawdust I mentioned earlier well I found a gap and now I'm using it to fill it I use my flush trim saw to cut off the excess my turkeys if the key is still proud of the surface use a sharp chisel to pare away the rest now hand stand the box with 220 grit sandpaper to prep it for finish I applied three coats of a medium machine water locks to the box to apply the finish I'm just using a foam brush I wrap my glove around the bowl to seal the finish between coats after about 24 hours I applied a second coat I normally don't sand after the first coat since it's mostly absorbent of wood and is pretty thin after the second coat dries I sand the box with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the dust I wipe it down with tack cloth now it's time for the third and final coat try not to put on a thick coat as you wanted to dry as soon as possible I normally thin the finish but was out of mineral spirits thanks for watching if you liked the video please hit the thumbs up button below and subscribe to my channel