hello everyone welcome back to the workshop today we are going to be working on a cape chisel or you can also call it an engraving chisel or a inlaying chisel this is part of this cross job that I'm working on for my client where I'm going to be in laying some mokume now essentially what I movie-making is what I have heard in terminology or technical jargon called before a cape chisel and essentially it's going to look a little something like this we're going to have a part it's going to be swole out there's going to be another part that's swollen like so and comes up and a nice comfortable angle and then we're going to have a bevel on the tip of it and actually this looks this looks horribly and I apologize so essentially that's what the end is going to look like except less severe right not like screwing this up on camera anyways so you say why does it look so ugly well the whole purpose of this is to take and remove a chip of material out of Steel and you're supposed to be able to take and remove material with these chisels that's why the bottom is made to sit flat but the angle here is important for the striking into the hammer to give your hand enough room to grip the chisel in between the workpiece so this portion here is purely for ergonomics as where the main cutting edge is the most important thing most cold working cutting tools and I will say most this isn't always the standard most cold working cutting tools this angle here we see you hand draw this line let's say if you put a flat here this angle right here is a 30-degree angle well not percentage yeah that's a 30-degree angle for cold work for hot work that angle is increased down somewhat to a 60-degree angle now obviously there's all sorts of different pitches you could get really specific but I'm doing this by eyeball and on a belt sander so a chances are it's not 30 degrees it could be 29 degrees it could be 26 degrees it could be 40 degrees doesn't really matter you have to work with whatever pitch seems like it will help cut into the material but have enough support for your leading edge so it doesn't break off or deform a 60 degree angle it's just kind of the standard for hot work as well as 30 degrees the standard for cold work this is on cold chisels of any kind let's say 30 degree and on anything like you're hot like slitting chisels and stuff is a 60 degree angle as long as you keep 60 30 in your mind you can make most tools that will work pretty effectively there's probably a sweet spot you know it may be like 65 degrees for hot cutting chisel versus you know maybe maybe it's 42 degrees for cold working chisel maybe but there's somebody's come up with exact math for that but for a blacksmith's purpose you don't have to really worry about that so anyways that's what we were making today and we were going to make it out of a length of coil spring so as you see I already got a piece here already flattened out I did this for another another job on this coil spring I'm essentially just going to work with this I'm going to forge this out just a little bit more and then go ahead and cut and grind this to shape so this way I can have my cape chisel out further ado let's get started okay everyone here we are at the envel so the first step in this process is I'm going to spread that material a little bit better behind that original flat spot that I worked down and just make this a little better transition since we are working with coil spring you definitely do not want to work it down into two colder temperatures notice where I'm stopping with it that is really about the coldest temperature you want to take and work it so here's our second heat and I'm going to start by forging the tip of this or the first bevel which would be the sixty degree bevel and then we'll grind in the thirty degree bevel later on I like forging these in it seems to be just as quick as grinding them in and I don't really see any other benefit in just cutting off a lunker material and then having a piece of high carbon steel bit laying around that you can't use for anything so I try to forge the shape as much as I can as this section here this cross section gets thinner you can see it cools off quicker so you want to be very careful and just kind of tap it gingerly at this point and you know just keep in mind all while you're doing this you are working with high carbon steel as coil spring is now on to this next part I'm going to start giving it a little bit of shape and a little bit of curve for that ergonomic hammer that organ Amin handle excuse me you can either find some of the shape here on the back just trying to clean up that transition a little bit more and get more of a Distilled taper to it now as you can tell it's not as severely bent like I drew at the workbench you just need enough space to get your hands on the striking in now we went in we brought the piece up to critical temperature and we're sticking it in the coal forges ashes to anneal it if you don't have ashes from coal Forge you can use any ashes or sand after it has been annealed we'll go ahead and take the time to go ahead and grind in our thirty degree bevel now as you can see this doesn't take a whole lot you know you could do it all stock removal if you'd like but that's not necessary really all we're wanting to do is just you know create nice flat and square up anything that didn't Forge out correctly a lot of times if you're very careful with your forging you won't need to do a whole lot of grinding so now we've got the forge heating up we're going to stick the handle end or the struck end into the forge first reason for this being is you do not want the tip to overheat so it work with the thicker part first here's a magic magnet test and I'm quenching in water if you're not comfortable with the steel that you're working with it's always best to quench in oil first and see if it will hold an edge if it won't hold an edge in oil you'll have to go to water usually that's just a general rule of thumb I know there's a lot of guys out there they're really smart on what heat treating does this that will have you these are just methods that seem to work for me and water works just fine so here I'm just brightening the surface of the steel and there are still heat in the handle this is how I will actually temper the piece there's still enough heat in the handle that it's removing some of the stress going forward and there's the result you can see the 30 degree bevel on the front with the 60 degree just behind it and a relatively flat bottom and then here's a front profile view anyways that's it for today guys let me know what you think of this video and thanks for watching