hi everybody so today is going to be sort of a tutorial and sort of an experiment I'm going to show you how to make a boned under busk like this now don't worry about the marking there because that's a basically air fading marker that'll that'll go away with time but basically this has a bone under busk and I'm also going to show you how to make busk here with a flap over top of it hiding the busk and this is done basically using the same method the same technique just flipping the measurements around you can see here I have the first panel of a corset pattern and I've already inserted the loop side of the bus care if you want to learn how to do that I have a tutorial than I made from a year or two ago I'll link it right at the corner of the screen here and I'm going to be inserting the nob side of the bust and for most people how how most people insert the knobs out of the bus cos you take your pattern piece you lay it on the fabric put this straight line down there and then you mirror it on that front line there then you would iron it like I already have here stick the buskin make sure everything matches up like so and then poke your holes and secure the line of stitching on the other side of the buskin there you go today I'm going to be doing something a little bit different and here on the left you can see something a little bit different so this is the traditional piece that you probably cut this one is quite a bit wider so you might be thinking okay there's a lot of fabric wasting here I guess kind of so you can read this clearly now I wrote front right there because when you have your bus like that when it's folded over and the bus is inserted this is what you're going to be seeing on the outside so this side is what's going you're going to see the center front on the outside of the corset now I don't from there you probably shouldn't because you probably won't be able to erase that clearly later on right beside it you can see that there's a 15 millimeter space right there that is just what enough for this really thin flexible busk with a couple millimeters on each side to take into account folding and whatnot I wrote back there because I want to fold that backwards then there is a 40 millimeter gap right there because that is 25 plus 15 and I want to fool that forward and then here is a 25 millimeter gap right there that I want to fold backwards and this is wide enough so that I can put this flat steel right in there and give it a bone under busk so that it's more sturdy again with a little bit of extra space to take into account folding and whatnot and here is the lining so I'm going to fold this I'm going to show you how I fold this sort of accordion style and we'll see what we get after ironing the whole panel to get any wrinkles out then I begin to fold the different parts like an accordion I'm going from the right side to the left side because I felt like it so I pinch it out the line and then I go back and forth I can see the marker right through the coup teal but you may have to use a tracing wheel and chalk paper so you can see the fold lines on both sides if you have your strength fabric fuse to your fashion fabric or what have you and here is what it looks like once the ironing is finished now I'm going to insert the busk so I line up the loop side with the fabric so I know where to poke the holes and I'm pretending to be right-handed here so you can see what I'm doing now I'm using my awl to stretch the holes and fit the knobs through and check and make sure that the fold of the fabric on the underside doesn't overlap with any part of the bone because you don't want to hit it when you're sewing it now I'm securing the bust with the line of stitching using my cording foot to get right beside the bone check on the underside that you did in fact stitch on the line and yes I did so now I'm going to continue I'm going to move the bus and the other part of the panel out of the way to the left and Stitch a line down the other side of that five millimeter gap so it has a fold on one side and now stitching on the other side this will make a channel so you can put in your wide flat steel if you want to have a bone to pocket but it's not absolutely necessary and after this you can start securing the front side to your core your fashion fabric whatever and then the lining side attach that to your floating liner or whatever you're using to construct the rest of the corset you can see that the bone is in there already you might want to wait to put in the bone right before you put on the binding just so that you can secure it in and then you can see how it comes together quite nicely and you have that really sturdy under bust right there now make sure that you trim everything so that you don't have any edges poking out from underneath there and that's basically it now when I'm feeling this with my fingers the bone under buss actually extends right there because you can see that the under busk really only is kind of on the left side or if you were wearing the corset like this you would feel the bone under bust more on the right side then on the left side if I wanted that a little bit more Center than what I would have had to do and what I would probably do next time in terms of the measurements here you can see 15 40 25 what I probably would have done is make this 30 millimetres wide and the back here it's still going to have to be 25 millimeters wide from the folded edge to the stitch line but I'm going to have to extend that 25 millimeters into the lining side so the lining side is actually going to be a little bit shorter then if I were to measure it like so so I would have to go in 10 millimeters in into this lining space basically but what that would help me do is to get this boned under bust a little bit more centered in the back there so that you're not feeling more sturdiness on one side of your body compared to the other I hope that makes sense and there you have it two different results how to make a flap over top of the busk hiding it or how to make a bow under busk here using the same technique so I hope you enjoyed this tutorial a sh experiment and now I'm going to show you some pictures of some other types of modesty plackets beneath the bus that I cannot show you but I'm going to provide links to tutorials online where you can learn how to make these different modesty plackets I just don't want to inadvertently teach you guys anything that is copyright and I will see you in a few days for the next video bye