hey guys thanks for checking in it's a Toyota day I love the way my truck goes off road with you 35 but they're seeing somewhere from all the on-road driving so that's the really because I also have a set of om outlets on 33 inch all-terrain that are going to get a rail can refinish I already did these two now I'm going to do the other two in this video now I admit I rushed the prep on the first two I'm not proud of the way they came out back America was heavily printed and shipped on these wheels all I did on these two was wash them scuffle with a scotch brite pad clean and degrease prime and paint it might not be in those bowls and a flat black both the surface imperfections really show and silver I'm going to take more time preparing the surface on the other two wheels see how much better they turn out we're still using a simple diagram of what I'm going to do to solve this problem first I have my wheel on the face of the wheel there are many surface imperfections first I'm relay down a coat of self-etch primer and that's going to be the green primer next I'm really down a lot of coats of Phillip primer and that's going to be the gray primer next I'll stand down the filler primer until all the surface imperfections are level let's get started first I washed the wheels I've asked off the tire around the wheel after standing with 180 grit sandpaper I clean and sprayed the surface with three light coats of self-etching primer once that dried I sprayed some light coats of Sanibel filler primer I pump did about six coats but more and the really pitted areas that needed to be filled this also filled scratches from the 180 grit sandpaper now I use the 180 grit sandpaper again to sand a surface of the wheel being careful at the sand through around the edges and corners as I see easy to do when you sit down and you start to see the green self-etching primer underneath that lets you know you're about to go too far the goal here is to see and around the pitted areas until enough of the primers are moved by the surface to be level and smooth here's a closer look at these pitted areas that I didn't bother to fill on the other wheels that I painted and you see how that worked out for me does not look very good so back to more sanding with the 180 grit I'm really focusing on these pitted areas now using my fingers for these tight spaces for large flat spaces I recommend using a block or sponge for our to un surface some large imperfections such as these Nick's from a careless tire mounting machine aren't going to come out with this method I only feed on our bucks for this sort of wheels though so I don't expect them to be show quality once the surface is level and smooth I'm going to stand with a 400 grit to remove the scratches left from the 180 grit I mentioned using a sanding sponge earlier this one's kind of soft and abed to match a curved surface this one's more rigid and better to use on flatter surfaces I'm using a softer one for these wheels now I'm going to wet sand with a 400 grit to help prevent the paper clogging LC past I put some water on the wheel and then just onto paper and sponge in a bucket sand and repeat I'm going to wet sand until its surface is smooth and there are no more scratches in that 180 grit paper all right I am happy with the surface of this wheel so I'm going to roll over to the hose and spray it off I've rolled the wheel back into the garage now and I've got a blue shop towel and just wipe them down all the surfaces to make sure there's not any debris or sanding dust left and I'm going to eat this wheel clean ready for the next step notice I did sand through all my primer on some of these edges so I'm going to hit this with a quick coat of self-etching primer just to make sure there's no bare metal before I put on my color first I'm going to clean it one more time again with the wax and grease remover I'm using some dupli-color silver wheel coating today same as I used on the other two wheels now when you're spraying this you don't want to do a heavy coat at first you want to take the real light coat but what I like to do is focus on the inset areas first hard-to-reach places because usually when you're trying to get those hard-to-reach places you get a overspray and get some paint on the easy services as well I find that if I do the easy services first and then go back and try and get into a little tight spaces I am getting too much paint on the BG surfaces which can turn into a run now all the instant areas are covered I'm going to go ahead and just do my light coat over the rest of the surface of the wheel and that's going to be it for the first coat all right let the first coat dry for 10 minutes for the directions on the can and now I'm going to do the same thing with the second coat starting off on all the difficult hard-to-reach inset areas first and get those covered and then I'm going to go ahead and do the overall surface with another coat now you notice I didn't really do an even coverage in the first coat and that's fine you know a lot of times when you try and do a whole viewing coat at first you know put too much on it takes too long to dry just a padi forever light coats are okay don't worry about making it look good on the first or even the sex of code to spend ten minutes that's my last coat and now I'm going to do the third and final coat and this is going to be what they call a wet coat which is a little bit heavier so what the wet coat does is it lays down and fills in any kind of surface imperfections you might have from overspray on your last coat be sure to follow the directions that's on the back of the can of the product you're using for example this is an enamel paint all additional coats of paint has to be applied within one hour or you have to wait seven days for this paint to cure before we can ply ahead of coat if you're using a lacquer spray paint that has no Reeko window you can add additional coats at any time so far I painted all the hard-to-reach inset areas now I went over the entire surface of the wheel with my wet coat missed a tiny spot by that valve stem there we go there's a couple spots where I started getting a little bit too heavy on the paint and those look a little bit darker hopefully they dry before now comes the rewarding part which is the removal of the tape okay I clearly did not mask out far enough to protect my tires from overspray that's not too big of a deal though because I have a product that will easily wipe off the paint from the tire I'm asking with the way this turned out got nice shine to it it's pretty even let's go compared to the other wheels so this one is the worst of the original - that did here you can see it's got all kinds of pits and scratches that really show through with the silver paint and here's the other one I already did it's not as bad but it still does not look good you can see all the imperfections and that's the result of painting over an irregular surface with such a high metallic paint now here is the wheel that I smooth first you can see I didn't get them all there's a couple there in the very edge see this one over here man where for those marks an entire machine which would be a really nice wheel I guess I wanted to I could have used some body filler to fill those in but I'm happy with this especially compared to what I had before you know the extra hour so to primer and smooth and sand these wheels is well worth it in my opinion now about this overspray situation you got some dupli-color prep spray I love this stuff use it the well-ventilated area though all I'm going to do is make sure I don't spray in my wheel because this will cause the inhalant to run right off so spray an entire only and I'm just going to spray it let it set for a second and then come back and wipe it off with the Ray you can see it's already starting to run look all that silver flakes just running off the tire and not only did it take off the paint it actually cleans the tire up really nice these letters have not been white in a long time that's going to be it for today sometimes a little bit of extra time in the prep of the surface will result in a much better final product not including the dry time I have maybe about an hour and to eat you use two wheels that I did today next time I'm going to use a new product called super color tire shine coating is not your traditional silicon-based white bond product with an actual paint for your tires to protect them and keep them looking new so stay tuned hit that subscribe button and thanks for watching