good yep all right everybody thanks for joining us for another live video here in Eastwood garage part two of our how to make a fender skirt with Matt so Matt what do we got going today so in the last episode we showed how to put some shape into the panel and get basically laid out now we're starting to actually tip all the edges to give it you know the shape that we want and make it a functional part so what we've already done is we used our finger break to bend this bottom edge here so this is going to be I'll show you on this fender here so on this fender that's that bottom edge is what sits there like that and what we're doing now is we're tipping this top edge here that runs all the way around the outside edge of the fender skirt so that it's going to fold in on itself to give it some strength this is a bubble style skirt so they actually overlap a little bit of the outside of the fender when they're done so we're gonna be folding this edge over and then it would have a piece of foam that would go against the you know the fender so it doesn't scratch the paint so what we're doing is we're tipping this edge we've already done a handful of passes we're gonna do like one or two more but we want to show you something that you guys might run into when you're doing this when you're tipping an edge with the bead roller or in general when you're doing an outside edge like this what you're gonna see is there's going to be some ripples in here as we roll this and you need to make sure you keep this under control that's actually when you're rolling an outside edge or tipping outside edge too much material ends up being there and you need to shrink it to keep everything under control it doesn't pull the panel the shape out of our panel here so we got our new Eastwood a we beat roller here we're using which is really nice one big thing especially for this job more so than that the big throat is that it doesn't have any any flex at all so and we're doing this we're doing a really really sharp line on the panel when we first rolled this through and any flex would have made it really difficult to keep on my line or what it made me have to work a lot harder to keep it straight on the line so now we're and it has standard shafts so and so we're using our forming guys with it so you know any bead roller forming guys that run on that standard size shaft you're good with yeah yeah that's a good point we got the soft lower wheel in here and then the sharp upper tipping wheel in here so we've run a couple paths the keys we're good is to put slight upward pressure we don't want to try and turn this in one pass ninety degrees so you're actually sort of forming this by hand by putting by forcing up unlike a go bead roller yeah if you're just rolling beads in a panel to put strength in like a floor pan it's all the machine that's doing it where this is actually your you're pushing it up you know to form it yeah it takes a little more control when you got to watch watch the panel a little more if you start pushing too hard on this it may start to slip on the rubber lower wheel there is another wheel I could show you in a second you can use two helps with that a little bit but you got to go in a little bit at a time and in this instance we stand kind of different well you may roll the panel differently than you would just rolling normal beads because you gotta get in the best line of sight of all of the line that we're rolling so I'm pushing up real lightly as we go around lining the panel feed and you can see we got some pretty good force on this and there's no no flexing occurring here with this with the elite bead roller which is really nice so I can really stay steady on these lines around so now we see the first pass we put almost no pressure on it so we kind of scribe a line in it I had a line scribed or scratched into the panel that we followed now that we kind of set a line in it with the first pass if kind of follows itself at that point and I don't have to steer it as much but you just have to keep a kind of the same pressure as you're putting it around upward pressure on the panel and if you see it start to slip just a little bit you can kind of push in a little bit on the panel to help it so it's not slipping on the wheel so we're just about at 90 here which is mainly what we need really nice perfect I was exciting especially for you who you're done this a couple times so loosen the wheel up and you can see what's happening here we got these big ripples in the panel especially right there that are where there's too much material and it's actually pulling the panel and in that spot there'll be like a low spot because of that so we just have to go around lightly and smooth all this up with the shrinker if you see uh if you see a ripple like this out more than likely that is that there's too much material there again if you're rolling an edge on the outside like this it'll create too much material if we were doing it the opposite way it would actually make it too short and we'd have to stretch it but since we're going on an outside radius like this there's too much material when you tip the edge so we just need to shrink that up the reason we're doing this in short passes is because we want we don't want too much material the waves to get too crazy because then you can't fit them in the shrinker when and it's more difficult to control so if you go a little bit at a time keep the panel shape about the same the whole time there's no big huge dips in the panel and you can actually see where the panels like here where there's too much material and here it's actually the panel comes out like that because it's it's got nowhere to go so it's forcing the metal out there so I'll put this in this in the shrinker get this tuned up and then go yeah I think if you have any questions well I guess if you're a fan of Scotty see he's not here today he's he's taking tech calls today so but if you have any questions you can get as you can see he's not there Louis but if you have any questions I'll be over there so you can still post them to Facebook I'll answer them or throw them over here to Matt and if you can get this thing on the fender Stang oh but then scratched what are we going to say I mean I find it guess I'd say it's about a 41 Cadillac series 60 or something talk about series 60 I'm not really a Cadillac guy let me have you might guess all right I'm heading over here yeah we had a we had a little last time we're working on this this is just a fender we were using as a prop and I didn't even really know it'll just had a nice shape to it and we did a little contest live for anybody kind of guest and we had a couple guys that guests around the same time but we had one viewer that guessed it and we got a nice little care package with some Eastwood swag on the way for them so we're gonna go over here this is our heavy-duty shrinker stretcher you can change the dies out we have the stretcher dies in here but I'm not really using them right now we have the shrinker dies in the nice thing with this particular shrinker especially for a part like this it puts the panel at a nice working position here if we had this up in the vise it would be up above my head and would be kind of a pain to see what I was doing so we're gonna find these big waves I have one right there that's starting so I usually put that right in the center of the jaws where they're split and the key is to push down get it tight and you just put a little bit of pressure you'll actually feel the panel with my thumb here I usually keep it right in the center where it's puckered out and I'll push just a little bit on it and I can feel it kind of doing its thing you can actually feel the metal moving around there so yeah see here and I'll twist the panel like here's a good example right here when I twist the panel a little bit it actually accentuates these areas where there's too much material we need to shrink so sometimes they won't they won't show up right away but you move the panel around a little bit and all sudden boom it'll it'll pucker up there so what you can do is put it in the shrinker again right in that area now we're not putting a full press of the pedal I'm going real light it's real easy to shrink with this this heavy-duty shrinker I'm just trying to smooth those those marks out or not marks the raised material out there and we're not trying to actually do a ton of shrinking that's gonna change our panel do just a little bit here and then we can kind of just going real light on here try and smooth some of this out now this edge is going to be completely rolled over basically on itself so you're not gonna see this area so in this instance it's no big deal to use the marks that the shrinker might put in it you don't have to worry about sanding them off or anything or having an issue with them so we can see right there there's definitely one I need to jump over to if you guys have questions shoot them shoot them over happy to answer them for you guys and we're shooting a video for this so what we're doing is we're just stuck we're just catching in the center of a project or the middle of a project router rather and if you guys want to see the full video we'll have that out on a youtube channel so make sure you subscribe and you'll get notified when the video this video or any other ones are up we've got another guess on what kind of fender it is okay is it a Toyota Prius hmm it might be like a first gen from 1940 just you know the early Toyota Priuses may be pretty rare I don't know probably probably not the best guess No well it might be might have a Prius fan out there that could tell us antique Prius Club of America might consult them alright moving around so again this is the heavy-duty shrinker stretcher the foot pedal attached to it the foot stand is an optional thing but it's really nice because they as you can see I can really work the panel without having to fight it too much put sit in a nice working position and I don't need a helper so you got so we got our shape in it we're starting to this edge is coming around here and what I can do from here is we can either put it in the the tipping dies a little bit more but once you're at 90 you can start actually it'll fold over pretty easy on itself so I'll show you guys a quick little section here where we're gonna fold this over and how we're gonna do it so I put the paddle hook let me jump on the other side here's on our web page if you click the contact us there's actually a spark spot here says do you have a question or comment comment for our president yeah I think I wonder if he knows that I'm gonna have to ask him later on what are many questions you guys I feel like asking for I think it Donald is that I don't know yeah it's so yeah right the Brian's house we actually the original question was do we have distributors and Australia and we do and I'm just trying to get the link for everybody better we have distributors all around the world actually and if you go on our website there's a spot where you can find them so I'm just gonna I'll add it to a YouTube if you're on youtube right now I just ran into some stuff on our website I never knew existed alright so what I'm doing here is we want a pretty I don't want say a sharp edge is the way I would describe it here on here we want a pretty crisp edge that's probably a better word to use on this Bend line here so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna you can choose a dolly that has a fairly sharp edge on it and we can go see if Joe can get on those so these two dollies this is a post dolly that we we have here it's another one of our dollies from our general purpose so both of these have pretty sharp edges on them because we're gonna want to actually hammer the metal over this this one's a little rounded so once we get up in here that might work a little better but down here in the bottom area so I'm going to put that right in our line where we were tipping and I'm gonna start hammering that edge over and you can move a little bit but the key is that we've already tipped we already got most of the shape into this by tipping it on the bead roller so I don't have to worry about as much I don't have to worry as much about getting my dolly off of our lining and creating up a mark that we don't want so I'm hammering on the top edge right here of the panel on where we want to fold it I'm actually hammering up here not down here and what that does it's just the leverage helps us by pinning the panel at the bottom there with the Dahle memory on the top like that that helps us sarey here's a good example to see how there's a gap right in there that's because this is a completely straight dolly right in there it's a straight line and this panels curving so we can't necessarily use this dolly in there it was great for that area where it's straight but we need to we need to switch that over there so we're gonna go to this one that has a slight little bit of a curve to it there and what that does that allows us to follow the shape of the panel and again notice I'm not going a hundred percent over quite yet we just want to work it slowly as we still have a little time to adjust before we fold it completely you can see I'm pushing this dolly maybe 1520 degrees off the panel from flat right in that area where we tipped already all right so I did a little over half there so it's starting to come around you can see the key is using that sharp dolly as you can see this line up here is really nice and crisp if I was using a dolly that had more of a rounded edge when I was hammering on that it would have really rounded this edge over here and it would have started getting out of shape down below which we don't want so I've got a nice crisp edge there since we're not fully folded over completely if I do need to adjust something a little bit I can pull this back up a little bit and hit it with the shrinker like in here it's a little rippled you can probably see in here there's all these ripples so what I'm gonna do before I do the final folding over of that I'm gonna go through with the shrinker and hit those whole areas just kiss them with the with the very edge of the shrinker and that'll smooth all those out before we hammer them over which is no the correct way to do that any questions so far yeah actually we have a question here on Facebook Ronald would like to know what you're gonna use to to sand out the marks I guess he means the marks from the o-ring yep so the shrinker does create some marks in it from using it I mentioned a little earlier while I was using the shrinker then in this instance it's no big deal because this edge is getting folded under and you're not gonna see it it's gonna be a folded behind so it's really not an issue I wouldn't even address it but if you're doing it on the front of a panel where you can actually see the the shrinking marks or the shrinker marks the teeth marks usually with a da sander like 80 grit you can take over it and just work those out and blend them out a little bit you really don't want to take a flat disk or anything to that area because it's gonna thin the metal out really quick but you can take a da sander with 80 grit or even 36 grit and just kiss it a little bit with the sander and that'll usually take it out and then at that point after you hit it with the sander lightly your high build primer is gonna fill that in and then you can block it all out and you'll never see it but as long as you stand out the real heavy ones you should be completely fine so good question any other ones all right cool so that's all I got I'll show you guys on the fender here and you could see a little better what we're doing and again we're doing a full video on this so we were just showing you a little couple little tricks on this so this is just gonna get rolled over fit underneath like so and our a our edge will be tipped pretty much all the way flat with the panel so that it will sit flush against here and we'll have a nice set of flush or I'm sorry bubble skirts when this is done so should be pretty cool any other questions that's it for the questions like Matt said don't forget the video we'll be privy out in a couple weeks as soon as the old fender skirt or if you missed part one part ones on YouTube and you can watch part two it should be done processing so you can watch part one and two and in the whole video and what like right two weeks Joe you have this video done tomorrow right and I yes yeah probably in a couple weeks I just check out our news check out our YouTube channel so cool guys well thank you for watching as always if you have any products or techniques or projects you'd like to see us working on or showing definitely drop us a line and let us know we'll try and do a video on it or jump in and do a little live like this thanks guys catch you later you you