honey folks Troy with feet wins the v8 some back I'm gonna do a new video segment on molding Europe cuts the motorcycle frame a lot of guys talk about molding a lot of people here the phrase used basically I'm here to tell you a little bit about it and show you how to do it so what I have what we hear behind me is a Sportster frame that belongs to a friend of mine Bob Zaleski and done with choppers it's an awesome bike builder but admittedly he is not a good body man he hates to do body work so I have a nearby shop and he just wants to clean up the weld area is not a crazy mold job like it like it's all tapered into itself or anything like that just kind of clean up the welds and go over the areas so what I'm done is he sent it out had an all sample I've set up really nice so I got it set up on my jig in here like shop and I'd mix up some body filler and I played some body filler down on all the joints that he wants to hide so this is the initial stage of it so I mix up my body filler I put it all on all the weld areas around the neck the front engine mount the support piece all around to where the backbone comes into this rear support here all around the fenders around the shocks any place that you can really see I put some body filler on so the next phase of the operation is I'm gonna stand in this body full of smooth and then we'll see what we have this is the first application I'll bring the camera over and I'll show you what this kind of looks like so here's where my neck is attached the down tube now there was a big weld that goes right around here around here and around here so all I really did was you can see up in here I don't have it quite complete this is the first application so what I did was I I spread it on here with the spreader and then I took my I wore a pair of latex gloves and I took my finger and I smeared the filler all into all the grooves so now I'll take some probably 36 grit paper and take this down and that'll be my basis for it so I'll sand all this this is all handwork so there's no magic tool that that smooths all this off it's a piece of 36 grit sandpaper in your hand and just kind of like having at this so every area here will begin massage that if you will to blend all this together so what I'm gonna do next is I'm gonna get out some 36 and I'm gonna sand all these areas down and then I'll come back on camera and I'll show you where it is there this process is gonna take probably two or three applications to get it to where it's ready to be primed so I'm gonna go ahead and go off camera I'm gonna do that and I'll get back with you honey folks Troy its beach ones to be eggs I'm back I'm gonna get into the next process of our frame molding that we have here so what I did before was frame was just to recap a little bit frame was sandblasted I applied my plastic body filler to all the joints now what I've done is I've done my first sanding the back half of it I I just roughed out a little bit this year I got roughed out pretty good here you go so this is where my neck is and this is where my mic down tube and my my backbone tube is coming in I got a little reinforcement here I got my front motor mount here and then I got my wishbone down here as you can see where it comes down and in you can see the body filler and it just kind of smooths everything over all it really does is it just blends it in it's almost like we have a seam sealed anything it's the same idea it's just gonna smooth it all over and make it look like it's all one piece kind of like the way your finger comes into your hand same kind of same kind of principle you know it just blends it in nicely so now I've got my first standing I'm roughed in I'm gonna take it put some polyester glaze coat over these areas to take care of my little depressions and my pin holes here and then I'll do a final sand with probably 80 grit this here I sanded with 36 and it's looking pretty decent as you can see everything's kind of blending in pretty good my glaze coat will take care of some low spots my pinholes things like that I'll come around to the other side I'll show you what this side looks like you can see that I'll clean this up this is uh where the tank mounts on but you can see how it's kind of blended in right here if you look you could see I'm a little low so I'm gonna have to bridge that over I can do that with my glaze coat this is looking pretty decent I got a little digger there I mean you just got a you know pinholes you just kind of really kind of look it over here's I got this front motor mount area here this back here what I did was I took my little cookie on a die grinder and I just kind of knocked off everything all the all the rough areas so now I this is what I started out with back there so I'm gonna um take it seeing this by hand with 36 it's the only way to do it and that'll give me this kind of a look that I can do my next step which is glaze coat so how to do this so I'm gonna continue sanding the rest of this and then I'm gonna apply some glaze go to all these areas my next sending I'll use 80 grit paper and more than likely at that point I'll be pretty close I'll probably have to go along look into the little areas touch up here touch up the I'll bring you back on so you can see that and then once we get it all so it looks really good then it's a anti corrosive primer and then a catalyzed primer surfacer and then we're pretty much ready to do some painting but howdy folks Troy with v-twins 2 v8 some back here with my project of molding this Kustoms sports the frame we started out with the frame sandblasted we did our first application of plastic body filler ice ended that by hand with 36 I showed you that now back at this at this point it's been standard with 36 now I've got a glaze coat I used ever coat for 17 and used it for years I just really like it this is the product here it literally will pour out of the can for you if you want you know I mean it's it's that liquid so it what this Sun what this product does is it's really fine it fills in all your fine scratches little spots are worth you have you have some pinholes of some low spots and then you end up with this I mean now this is what the the surface looks like here so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take I've got some 80 grit stick it roll sandpaper here I've got a foam pad and I make up a couple of things so I can see in with my hand so I can sand it on this foam thing and use it to contour so I'm gonna set you back up here I'm just gonna do a little sanding and I'll show you you know what we've got how it goes and you know I'm gonna wear a small pair of gloves here it allows me to get a little bit better grip on the sandpaper and not tear my hands up so much so there's no real easy way to do this you just you're just standing away I'm gonna see if I can zoom you in over here you know so I am just gonna just gonna take the sandpaper dandy there it means the thing that's nice about this glaze coat is it's very easy to sink so you see anything goes pretty good even though you're using this fire sandpaper which is 80 grit that I'm using it it's in pretty quick I mean this whole job is is just it's kind of tedious so when I say time to tedium I mean it's just like it's tedious work you can't get too crazy you just have to let the sandpaper do the job and you go long when you sand down all your low spots and your high stands down your high spot blend them into your low spots and then you end up with this nice area where this whole thing is blended together so I'm not gonna bore you with too much more of this but I mean you'll get the general idea I mean get this you know as I see it this is my area you know so I start out with something that looks like this here and then I seeing it down to something that's nice and smooth and it's gonna blend into itself there so I'm gonna do that to the entire frame and maybe touch a few spots that might be low maybe you know I might have some pin pulling some edges and things like that that I have to touch up and then after that it'll be basically the whole frame will be ready to be pract so I will look continue to see in this whole thing I'll give you a little view of what it looks like once I'm all done and then we'll get it primed and we'll uh we'll go from there once it's prime then your frames I'll hold it and you're ready for paint thanks a lot now I've got to the point where I've done all my glaze coat work with an 80 grit paper I'm down to the point where all the areas that I feel is so needed attention have attention in this steel my customer are my friend or whatever he was concerned with everything from like you know the lower portion of this frame up so when it's on because it's going to be a really little bike and I'm really gonna see the stuff on the bottom it's got a very race theme to it so it's not really like a show bike it doesn't have to really be perfect so what I did was I molded all this stuff here if you remember in the previous part of the video I'm not that quick with 36 then I came back on it with some 80 then I put some glaze coat on it now I've got it the glaze coat sanded I've got a few spots where there was a couple of little divots like a little not really a pin hole but like a low spot so I left this one here for you so you could see what I got I just got this little spot so what I meant did was I went around and I'm gonna put you back over here so what I did was they went around and I looked at really blew it up really good with some compressed air I went around and I looked at every square inch of it very closely with a pencil in my hand and every time I found a squat that needed a little bit more putty or call the Esther glaze coat whatever you want to call it I made a little circle around that area and I inspected the entire all my areas that I work until I had it all done and then I looked at what I had what I had to to fill in and sit in thought in my mind say okay I need you know a golf ball size of the stuff or a quarter or whatever it may be then I came back and I collect stuff on those spots so now I'm just gonna let this dry I'll come back on it with some maybe I'll Lock those squats down and then it'll be pretty much ready for primer at that point I'll go over really good I'll take all these sandblasted areas I'll probably just run some sandpaper over just to make sure to knock down any of the rough stuff and then I'll treat it with with an acid and then I'll use my antique corrosive primer to prime it and then my high build primer when I get to those steps I'll come back on I'll show you how to do it and we'll move forward howdy folks I'm back okay so now what I've done is they sanded all my little touch-up areas and now I and then I went over the whole frame inch by inch basically I took those little bit my little die grind on my dremel tool i cleaned out all of my holes that I might have any little scab of plastic filler or anything like that I took care of that took care of all my edges I went over everything everything looks really good I ran over the frame with a scuff pad just to knock off anything you know any debris or anything that was extra on there now I'm ready to go so I'm going to wash this with a pre cleaner I'm going to mix up some anti corrosive primer you can use any kind you want self-etching primer anti corrosive primer usually comes it's green in color mix it for the instructions on the back all you really got to do is cover it the anti corrosive primer is designed to bike to the metal and then the primary can bike to that so I'm going to put a coat of that on here I'm gonna let that flash by a time I'm just cleaning out my gun and everything from the anti corrosive primer and then I'll mix some private surfacer and put that in my gun by the time I'm done with all that this primal the corrosive that was on my frame that the Quran will be flashed enough to accept the Primus servicer I'll put two to three coats of the Primus surface or on that will let that drive will sand it we'll see what we got chances are after that Primus surfaces on here it'll be sanded and then we can start thinking about we're going to put on it for paint just wanted to give you a look so you could see where I'm at here I mixed up my anti corrosive primer I've applied it to my frame so that are all covered I look on are all of different angles and every which way to make sure that everything is covered the most important thing with your anti corrosive primer or etching primer is that you have all your bare metal surfaces covered it's not like you need two three four coats of this stuff it just has to be covered this material bites the steel and creates adhesion for your paint job so I definitely achieve that what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna clean my gun out I'm gonna get my urethane primer surfacer next and ready to go on the gun with the Primus surface or I'm gonna want to put two to three good coats on here because that's gonna provide my film bill so I can sand this feeling all my little sand scratches nooks crannies this thing was pretty much bare metal so there might be some grind marks in it when we ground it and stretched it and welded it so I'm gonna work on getting all that stuff buried and the only way to do that is with the primer so I'm gonna go ahead get this get this thing prime honey folks okay so I'm back on what you see over here is this is my urethane primer I've applied it look at my paint close on I got three good coats a high build your Athene primer on here just so happens to be this buff color you can he comes like this or it comes in in red oxide or it comes in gray or you can tint it to whatever color you want this is how it came once this dries i'm gonna take a good look at it I'll put some guide code on it and you love the words I'll dust them you know like black trim black or whatever I get hanging around in a kid that'll accent against this collar here I'll lay that on there and then I'll probably but it looks a bit I got some grind marks and stuff on here that that are from when the frame was altered so I'm gonna have to fill those in I really couldn't see them with the sandblasting so now what's happened is is a lot of the imperfections I couldn't see before I've definitely seen now so I will put a guide coat on here and I'll send this thing dry with probably a hundred and eighty grit sandpaper I'll put another couple of coats of primer on here and then we'll be ready to paint out here gives my frame in the back i primed it the first time put a guide coat on it I'm gonna see into today and I'm gonna reap right over here I have my swing arm that that I've been working on I just got this one in primer so now you can see here that I've got this primed up I'm gonna put some guide coat on this and I'm gonna get this sanded and ready to be reprime now the reason i'm Reap riving is because I've got some areas that really I'm not happy with and what the primer will do is like in small areas of scratches some some spots like on the frame where it was sandblasted with some really rough steel shot that makes it kind of rough just imperfections I mean what I'm talking about filling dancing with this stuff but we're talking about billions my perfection scratches things of that agent so what I'm going to do is I'll apply a little guide coat to this just like I did with my frame and then I'm going to sand this one like that I'm going to sand this dry so I have to worry about a lot of water get all the nooks and crannies that I have to blow up I probably stand this dry with 150 grit sandpaper that way then it'll take it that really quick and my next application of pride well-well woman take care of anything that I got going on there so basically what I'm going to do is guide coat it get it really good with some 150 take a look at it make sure I don't have any areas that I might want to put some polyester glaze cover on if I have some major cougars that I discover it's not who I'm going to apply another two to three coats of this high build urethane primer and at that point we'll be ready for sanding and painting I've got the house of color paint is out of order for this it should be here hopefully by the end of the week and we're going to go with an oriental blue candy and Samoa Ryan silver we're also going to use some house of color blue flake and some house of color silver flake so we're gonna come up with a room with a retro paint job for this Sportster as well yeah in the meantime I do have some other kids that I'm getting ready to do another Sportster this is gonna be more about you know stock type Sportster but I've got the front rear fender in the tank I'm prepping at the same time I'm doing this so once I'm done with this project I'm gonna move on to that that may also order the paint on that one's gonna be partly so we're gonna do purple with I think some really crazy metal flake flames on that so that's a to be to be seen type of project but I'll get back with you on that so I'm gonna get this sanded and I'll come back here and let you know how we made out work around thanks back here was my molded frame project and for run with the choppers just coming in to give you a little update so we weren't what I've been doing we're we're bad with the project so at the last point I applied another application of primer like I have here on this swingarm you'll see here is I had previously sanded it andrey primed it this is the results i put some guide coat on it now i have to sand this with 600 and then I'll be ready to put my put my seal or my base coat sealer or my candy done it so I've got this I still have to sand this is my frame I've sanded this frame was 600 what I'm gonna do is I have a few spots in here we can still see my guide coat nooks and crannies I afraid with a scuff pad give it a really good look make sure that all of my areas that I've done of my body work to all look really good all around here I'm gonna pay special attention to areas that I know are gonna be focal points are gonna be seen this area here the area between the tag of the seat I know that's you go see all this back around where the rear fender goes that's all going to be very a big focal point down here by the wishbone where the engine is and this front board amount is going to be something you're really going to see so I'm going to spend extra time looking at although we're making sure that everything's really quite right once I have that all set my swing is all sanded what I'll do is I'll watch this hold down and I'll look with compressed air all my nooks and crannies and holes and everything I'll get that all set I'll watch this thing down with pre clean to two or three times and I'll get it up and then I'll get a position so we can start thinking about putting some sealer on it so Lucy you learn from house of kolor and then we can put our base can be on so I'll get back with you when we're ready for that in the meantime I'm gonna do is I'm gonna sand that sweater and I'm also going to stand a have a test panel then I'm gonna sand and apply that so Lucy Lovejoy then I can apply my candy base the frame is going to be oriental blue with we're a blue candy and I'm gonna do some blue metal flake on that on top of that that's gonna be the frame the tank is going to be mostly blue but down low the fender the center of the tank and the center of the rear fender is going to be a triple silver like racing stripe that's also going to be it's gonna be Orientals oh right and silver with a silver metal flake in it so I'm gonna do a spray-out on a panel that I'm all crap so I can see exactly what the results are gonna be so I can tweak my techniques the thing that's really cool about the house of kolor product line is it's pretty much infinite the different things you can do depending upon the base you use the candy you use when you put flake on how many coats of candy a much flake it's just a myriad of different ways to do it so what I want to do is I want to fine-tune the specific technique I want to use before I start putting any material on my project that way if I want to do something different I just change it up try a little something different on my test panel until I get to exactly what I want then I know I say okay I'm going to use this base I'm going to use this candy I'm going to use this many coats of it I'm going to use this much flake I'm going to use this many coats of the flake and that will give me that same result so basically it gives me like a little roadmap exactly the steps and techniques I'm going to use to reproduce what I want so I'm gonna get to work on that stuff I'll bring it back on and I'll show you what I got going on Thanks