this is CLS all-in-one and today I'm going to show you how to repair a wooden fence without digging or using concrete so what's happened with this fence is the posts have broken on both sides of this section of fence so this post right here is broken and on the opposite side this post is also broken so we're gonna have to remove this section of fence and both these posts so this is the damaged part of the fence I'm going to be replacing and in place of it I'm going to put new 2x4 cross members and new metal posts then after that's done I'm going to restring all the pickets and they come facing the same way for a cleaner look so fences are usually secured with nails or screws so it won't be too hard to take apart I just kind of find where the screws are and nails are and pry the nails loose or remove the screws your 4x4 post should be fairly easy to remove also it might be a couple screws hold them in place but normally they break at the base and they're very easy to remove if any the post is left sticking above the ground you can just use a sawzall to cut it off now I'm going to be slicing the two sections of fence together with a 2x4 you want to make sure you use a long enough to buy four so it overlaps each section of fence by at least two feet but if you have a pencil it's more similar to this or the four-inch face is facing out you're going to have them out the splicing board's a little bit different so let's say the middle row on this fence has a four inch side facing out we're gonna mount two board in front of that that overlaps it by two feet on each side and then we're going to mount a board behind it to make the face flush on the backside so here's a narrow view of the fence to help better explain it this is a viewer where the inch and a half side is facing up and that's what we're looking at so if we splice in a 10 foot 2x4 to the face of the old 2x4 crossmembers it's going to leave a gap behind it that won't be flush for pickets so you need to add another 2x4 behind it so you have a flush base for the pickets but this is a narrow view of the fence I'm working on a date the foreign sign is already facing up so when I spy send my 10 foot 2x4 it's already gonna be flush on both sides for pickets so there's no need for any extra lumber at the four inch side of the cross members is facing up more than likely even have situations where the two by fours aren't quite going the same direction so it's going to leave too big a gap to secure but there's an easy fix for that all we need to do is go to the backside here and loosen the top row of pickets and then we can bend that board into place so we can mend it together so I've listened the top row of pickets here about four feet back and now that's going to allow me to move this top cross member so the two by fours still are not going the same angle but there's plenty of flex in them to where you can secure them together now and now I'm going to use at least six screws to secure the splice on this end once you have the 2x4 secured together go ahead and secure the pickets on the top row now we're simply going to repeat the process for the next two rows we're gonna overlap it on two feet on each side again securing it with the least six screws on each end and again because the angles don't line up I'm gonna have to loosen the middle row of pickets about four feet back so I commend the two boards together and once the boards are secured together I'm going to go to the back side and secure the middle row of pickets then I'm going to repeat the same process for the bottom row so here's a look at the cross members they're all secured and now it's time to install some posts so for the posts I'm going to be using a to 3/8 terminal post that's eight feet tall and I'm gonna have to offset it from where the old post was because there's gonna be concrete in the ground so I'm going to offset about a foot to the right or left for this particular fence I'm going to move my post to the right about a foot so if we move over a foot that should give us plenty of room to miss the old concrete so I'm gonna use a level here in a straight edge to mark alliant where I want my post to be so we're just gonna make that line level then I'm gonna go ahead mark the other post also so to secure the metal posts to the wood fence I'm going to be using a grip tight bracket these secure right to the posts plus they secure to the wood on both sides with screws and before we mount the bracket to the fence make sure to loosen this middle bolt here all the way that'll make it a lot easier to install the posts so to start with I'm only going to mount the two bottom bracket and secure them with two screws on only one side of the bracket so here's a closer look I'm doing just the bottom two brackets with screws on just one side now I'm going to slide it post into the brackets on each side so here's a look at what we've done so far we got our brackets and sole on the bottom we got our post put in them but they're sticking about two feet above the fence that's where we're going to use this this is a fence post driver this fence post driver is designed for T posts but it has a big enough inside ammeter where works return on posts also before we start driving the post we're gonna want to check for Louisville and I'm actually gonna have to go a couple inches forward to be level so I'm just gonna keep some pressure forward while I'm driving the post and get it about six inches in the ground and then I'm going to recheck for level again if it's still not level just push whatever direction you need to while you're driving the post and make a level once it's about a foot into the ground it should stay pretty straight from that point down I have repaired many fences using this method and I've only ran into a couple situations where this method didn't work now it's because there's too many rocks on the ground but about 98% of time this works just like I wanted to so for the post tap good stability you want to make sure it goes at least two feet in the ground but if the ground is really soft I would go another foot and make it three feet in the ground depending on how hard the ground is you may deform the top of the post for the fence post driver it begins to deformed you're gonna have a hard time fitting the fence post driver around it so you may have to cut off the damaged areas with a sawed off to continue using the fence post driver now it's time to go ahead and put on their top brackets I've removed the bolts I'll go ahead and slide this over the top of those easily now we're gonna drop it down into place and then secure the screws on just one side then repeat the process for the opposite side now it's time to turn the bolts for all the brackets once you tighten the brackets it's going to set the opposite side in about 1/2 inch and that's why we wait to put screws on the opposite side once that brackets tighten go ahead and put screws on the opposite end of the bracket and to secure these I'm using the t25 torque in two and a half inch screws okay we got the posts in place all those brackets are tightened and all the screws are in place but now we got some metal posts here you may not like the looks of a metal post so I have a fix for that also so do to cover the posts we're going to use three fence pickets this is three 1 by 6 fence pickets and I'm just building that 3 sided box and this will cover the brackets and then post perfectly then we just secure the box right to the cross members but this is just for look at the metal post doesn't bother you don't worry about it now it's time to string some pickets and to strip the pickets I'd like to use string line so what I usually do is I put an inch and a half screw on one side the opening on the very top of the picket and then I do the same thing on the opposite side then I tie a string line between the 2 screws you want to make sure the string Line is nice and tight and that there's no sag to it so you have a nice level line for your fence pickets and the string line really helps you out where the ground isn't flat if the pickets have to be staggered and match a certain angle that string line makes it really easy for you to stagger those at the right angle so to mount the pickets I'm just gonna mount the top of the picket even with a string and space it accordingly so I usually just secure pick it with one screw first then I check to make sure it's level then I add the remaining screws then after that I go about 4 or 5 pickets before I check for level again with most fences you should be able to reuse your old pickets but this fence only had to replace a couple pickets well I'm just about done now just got a couple pickets left it's looking pretty good they Bend this you're doing this way so you can get this done all in one day you don't have to wait for any concrete to dry you want to take any huge holes I was able to get this done in about half a day well thanks for watching this is CL I saw one if you want to hear more for me please like and subscribe