for the second video covering my tower Empire ghost kill I'll be showing you how I followed up on the Tamiya sprays with some acrylics I'm owned by mink M&S to do the major black areas as well as some of the details I then use some enamel washes and then switch back to acrylics again to do the chipping let's go yes I want to start the model a very solid glossy white click the top right for a link on how I did it in the previous video next we're going to go with mo Bomi Jimenez matte black now this is an airbrush ready acrylic paint and it's very easy to work with now I'm not going to airbrush it in fact I'm gonna hand brush it and it also worked really well for this and I'll show you why first things first give it a really good shake did you hear that these guys are very clever they put small ball bearings in their small metal balls and this was a brand new bottle when I first started shaking it the the ball bearing is it's captured in the paint at the bottom as I start shaking it you can hear the ball release inside you'll feel it a little bit - that's when you know the paint is mixing up properly go with a couple of drops here I'm using a waxed paper palette so it's just very simple and it stops the paint from drying on it then selecting a medium sized brush quickly dip it in the water that will help protect your bristles and then I've just mixed a little bit just a very much touch into the the paint here it's water soluble so it works really nicely and that's it you're in business now applying it to the model is really really easy because the the paint's are already seen for airbrush and paint use I'm applying it more as a wash if you're used to using some other acrylic paints they're lots thicker and they'll go on it's a slightly different technique so you can see I'm a lot looser and faster with this and because it's over a white base coat up some shading and pre highlighting occurs naturally and I found that to be really super useful I knew I could cheat a little bit and let the paint do some of the work for me and you know we're all about making things easier for ourselves right flipping the model around and you can see I I started painting directly from the bottle here I realized that I didn't really need to be dipping it into water and you can see some of the properties here it's both self-shading and self highlighting for me very nicely here I wanted to show you that the the mo by me Yemen is acrylic state and really nicely see that sharp edge I'm getting in there up against the knee armor and here we have it this is one quick pass of our mo by McGee - matte black on all of the details and areas that I wanted to be black and as a pre shade for some of the areas I want to paint gray or metallic next let's add an interesting mid-tone with mo bombing Yemen it's gray zero five nine now it's an interesting cool gray and I wanted that because I'm planning to add some warm weathering colors over the top of it and the contrast is is what can add visual interest to our models I still call this the base coating stage now this is a single layer over the top of black and you can see that the the opacity and coverage is excellent as is the paint's ability to stay within details and and keep a fine edge whilst painting around and keeping it neat and tidy and equally I found I could then flick over and still get really good coverage on this circular area back here here's how we look now and I'm thinking to myself I've got one of those really nifty turntables I should be using that a bit more of a stable view sorry guys now on to weathering proper I've gone with us modern vehicle wash from a member megameters and I'm gonna be sending it enamel odorless thinner this bottle is brand new so I'm using my wave stirrer I wanted to make sure that you get everything from the bottom these products work best if they're mixed thoroughly you can shake it but I like using one of these stairs I mean you just know it's really done and instead properly right a quick cleanup and setting up my workspace and here's one of the things people ask me all the time should I be buying these products and you know Emma buy me Yemen is and you know setting up your workspace you can see I'm working in a limited area here and they're fast easy and good I mean I'll pay money for that fast easy and good right that makes it worthwhile Oh coming in for a close-up here you'll see what I mean these are it's a perfect blend now I went with modern u.s. wash because our our image of the US military is they've got a nice high-tech look nowadays right at least that's my image and we've also seen them in action in recent arid environment I see it as a battle and that's the image I was going for with this this Games Workshop Tao Empire ghost kill suit is that from my understanding of the background story these guys are a a desert dwelling race of space seafarers spacefarers and I'm sorry I wanted this to UM you know have a hi-tech clean look but also give a nod back to with the arid homeworld idea so this brown warm color is contrasting really nicely with the cool white and the cool gray that I've used so far now that the wash product you can see how easy it is I'm I'm using my same brush yep uncle ink one brush one model and I'm dotting it in to run through the details it really is that easy pick out all the details and drop it in because of the glossy surface here that's an important part of your surface preparation it will allow this mineral spirit based product it has a low surface tension much lower than acrylics so it will flow very nicely into and around detail and what we're doing here is adding to the the visual contrast I mean the as we put the darker color into the recesses of the model it's are adding a shadow and outlining effect in Japanese we call that the Sumi yet effect and it comes from the old days of doing the 2d artworks that they don't form I'm going for a a clean crisp look for this towel I want it to be slightly weathered a little bit dirty so it's seen use but not overly weathered and done so rather than liberally wash the the entire model with this product which you could do for a different look I'm automatically and strategically placing it into details that I'd like to accentuate and in the future when I want to do a more heavily model you could see that we could go with something that would be comparative to the gun quash that some people are use on tumblr which is also an effective technique and you could use this product for that as well just like to point out that you can see I'm painting straight out of the bottle I didn't need to do anything further with this product and again I'd like that in that it helps it helps me keep my creative flow and processes going I don't have to mess about getting something ready to then start doing it it's just mix it open the bottle and I'm in action so I really like that good stuff here's something different I wanted to point out that I found in my video the penis it's the top of the model it's more likely it's a dirt grime dust except will accumulate on the upper facing parts of the model particularly around the neck here it's underneath a flamethrower with this I wanted it to be a bit heavier odorless thinner here by emmab I mean Jimenez it really is good stuff doesn't smell I've got some Tamia one as well it's alright I've got some other turpentine etc but hate the smell of that stuff and you know it gives me a burnt sensation in the back of the throat if I work with it for too long so really simply here I change the brushes you don't have to but just in case I needed to re-watch the other model I kept one brush with the u.s. modern wash on it and I'm using this one straight into the thinner I keep one bottle I bought one extra bottle of the odorless thinner just for this and dipping it back in it doesn't seem to cross-contaminate it too badly and I'm cleaning up like mentioned before I wanted this to be relatively clean if you're gonna heavily or even moderately whether a model you can't do it into fewer steps if that makes sense you need to gradually build it up going around the bottom parts lower facing parts of this model and the rear parts of the model you'll notice I I cleaned up the model less I'd like to leave more of the dirtier look on the back of the model I mention these as being fast forward moving type vehicles I'm in fighting suits so I'd imagine it they'd accumulate more dust on the back and I think it's good to have a number of gradients going on it so I've got the back looking a little grimy R dustier and slightly more weathered from a environmental point of view but the front has more rad dings scratches and bumping into things that kind of environmental weathering so a gradient from front to back as well as from top to bottom with this wash you can be quite pinpoint just with the two steps here first putting the wash on and I've not let it dry for long saved 30 minutes to an hour just the working time that it took me to get around this medium sized model smallish model really and and then come back with the odorless thinner and you can see that you're able to keep it quite pinpoint in places just with a very simple use of vania of a pointed brush a medium-sized pointed brush so it's a it's a useful one look they're streaking down when I have excess materials like that I start some downward streaking processes here and it helps to give the give us a little bit of reality motion vectors and other effects to the model whilst you're doing your rail your pinpoint wash thanks guys we're done for today the I hope you made it through with me and next time I'm gonna show you my test run on how I use the the oil brushes also by mo by me Jimenez and and how I use them for effects don't miss out on that episode please click Subscribe and we'll see you next time thanks bye you