hi everybody so today is going to be sort of a tutorial and sort of an experiment I'm going to show you how to make a boned under busk like this and I'm also going to show you how to make a bust here with a flap over top of it hiding the bust and this is done basically using the same method the same technique just flipping the measurements around you can see here I have the first panel of a corset pattern and I've already inserted the loop side of the bus care if you want to learn how to do that I have a tutorial than I made from a year or two ago I'll link it right at the corner at the screen here and I'm going to be inserting the knob side of the bust and for most people how how most people insert the nob side of the bus cos you take your pattern piece you lay it on the fabric put this straight line down there and then you mirror it on that front line there then you would iron it like I already have here stick the buskin make sure everything matches up like so and then poke your holes and secure the line of stitching on the other side of the buskin there you go today I'm going to be doing something a little bit different here you can see the gigantic piece right here and this would be technically the lining side of that very front panel right there so you can see more clearly here I have 15 millimeters marked out and that is wide enough to fit this thin busk right here thin flexible bus with a few millimeters difference on either side too to take into account folds and stitching then I have 40 millimeters space right there which is basically a 15 plus 25 and that's going to be basically the fold forward again the 25 millimeters here is for a wide bone that I'm going to be sticking in there and then here is basically what the front panel that you're going to be seeing on the outside of the corset that's where that's going to sit you'll notice from left to right the size of the gaps on this piece are 15 millimeters 40 millimeters and then 25 millimeters compare this to the piece that I showed in my previous video in which I was making the under busk and that had the numbers reversed for the gaps going 15 40 and 25 from right to left instead of left to right when pressing I'm going from right to left again just because it's easier that way for me pressing back the left edge of that 25 millimeter gap and the other side will be stitched eventually then I'm pressing forward the 40 millimeter gap try not to burn yourself like I'm doing here and finally pressing the 15 millimeter gap backwards to make the edge where you will be inserting the flexible busk and now it's time to insert the busk so I'm taking the loop side of the bus and matching it up to our freshly pressed panel and I'm using my fabric pen to mark out where the knobs need to go sorry if you can't see that well what I'm doing here because I'm using my left hand but basically you want to put your marks inside of the 15 millimeter gap or channel using my all here to stretch open the holes one by one and put the knobs through and when I'm finished you can see how the panel is going to work once it's all folded and complete how the flap on the top is just going to cover the entire busk so I fit my sewing machine with my cording or my piping foot so I can sew right next to the bone of that busk and I'm sewing directly on that line that fold that I had made before on the other side of the 15 millimeter gap and now the next part is sort of optional I'm going to stitch a line on the unfolded line of the 25 millimeter gap you might want to do this to keep it sort of flat or if you want to make a channel to stick a flat steel bone inside there but if you want to keep this Center front looking rather seamless then just skip this part and so when you put the two together you can see that this flap just nicely goes over it and when you are going to be putting your binding on make or that you trim these areas here now you really don't have to put a line of stitching right there I put it there just to make it more secure and if I wanted to add a bone in there just to keep it flat and keep it from flying up then I had that option but if you just put binding over the top and bottom edges here then it should be enough just to keep this laying flat pretty much if you're clever with this you can also do some print matching in the center front there and it can basically make the front of the course that look almost seamless as if it didn't have a bust there in the first place if you're really careful with it and there you have it two different results how to make a flap over top of the bus hiding it or how to make a bone under busk here using the same technique and I will see you in a few days for the next video bye