This file is managed by Nix - hence it's in the store path - and read only:
readlink -f /etc/nix/nix.conf
/nix/store/9cidrvc5n3fjf9zplxrwiyh0g9nq07bb-nix.conf
Instead in order to modify this, you need to set the `nix.extraOptions` in `configuration.nix` to modify this file.
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Nix config can also be set at `~/.config/nix/nix.conf` though see here for more info: <