it's really handy to be able to know how to do your own stud war say maybe if you want to split a large bedroom down the middle into two or even block up an old doorway like this if you know how to do it yourself just think how much money you could save you first stage of our stud wall is making sure that we check the area is safe and what I mean safe is that there's no electrics or pipes running behind the areas that we're hoping to fix to so you might want to invest in something like this it's a really good little gadget it's simply a pipe cable and wire detector just to check that there isn't any hidden electrics or piping I know I'm clear we can now get our wood cut into place the first section that we're going to cut is our base plate and that's where it all starts from so get yourself a tape measure measuring the width that we're going to need I'm looking at nine hundred and seventy millimeters we're now ready to cut our wood just a quick little chat about the wood that I've chosen I've gone for a three by two and it's a soft wood that's been sawn so it's nice and smooth as well you okay and that is my first cut now if we allow ourselves to do the odd cheeky cut that's gone a bit skew if we'll our uprights are going to start looking like this yeah so they need to be nice and level to sit flush put your baseplate roughly where you think it's going to have to go get yourself an off cut of the front plaster board you're going to be using and you just line it up like that I'm not quite flush I've got about a middle - deviation there now that's important because when we go to plaster this area we need to be able to get a certain one or two mil thickness on here but then we need to follow over to create that smooth finish so it all blends in get your pencil and just run it in front of your wood we do that just to make sure that when we're changing our drills we don't accidentally knock the word slightly out of place a good little tip for you when you're measuring that for your frame just put the top plate it's eventually going to be up there on your bottom plate and then you can take a full measurement from the top all the way down it's a little bit easier feel free to use your leg now this is how we fix it first of all you get your wood bit you drill through we then change to our masonry bit get our plug now we can tighten it up now this is pretty much a small area so I'm not going to need a lot of up stance you're going to need supports every 400 millimetres then cut two pieces of wood in which I'm just going to lay on top of that like that it's gonna give my base a bit of support I've got another piece for the top now I've put my piece of wood tight to there I've got a nice steady surface to work - so we're spiking it's called spiking because you're going in at an angle so you get your wood bit and drill you start square on just literally to make a hole so take your time with this drill and tighten it up so when you're doing your up stands and your noggins we just put two fixings in just to make sure it isn't going to go anywhere really solid there but if you can see the Flex through the middle so the way we're going to get rid of this is by supporting it this side and this side so these are just going to slot into the middle and give it the extra support that it needs and these quick use corn organs I always used to make me smile I think one thing we do is one we put our noggins in left and right we try not to have them in the same position like this trying it looking a bit like that purely because it gives an extra little bit of brace to the structure so we're going for two screws again just to make sure that the wood doesn't twist so now this is where the height of my pasture board is going to come so I'm just going to strike a line there there and there and that'll determine where I put my noggins through as you can see I've put most of my logins in now and I've put them the full width okay so it gives the most amount of support you would before you put your plaster build on this take a photo of it and you know exactly where all your wood frame is as well so maybe a later that you want to put a picture up or something we know what we can fix into and you can just show it off and say look I did that so now we've got our frame work into place I've just put a little bit of insulation in here such a small area it's not a necessity but let's be honest with the price of gas bills nowadays let's keep all heat weekend I've got my plasterboard ready we've already got our noggins in place so i know where i'm going to have my fixings on the top but obviously i need to mark out the wall to where my noggin czar below here I've got a noggin here so I'm just going to transfer that top and bottom okay that clearly shows us the full width of our noggin now we're going to measure our plaster board from the top and also Pat the bottom when I took my measurements I just wrote them at the top here so I know that's my 950 then bottom it went down to nine four five just join it in lines up apply a good bit of pressure and just score down the line we then stand it up it doesn't take too much for an effort that it should just crack straight down the middle just score it again so the fixings we're going to use now are called drywall fixings they're usually in this distinctive black color and the reason we have to use a particular type of fixing it's because these have been galvanized and by that it basically means that they're not going to rust if you were studying the whole wall then we probably would need to have a doorway you can buy door lining packs so there's a stud wall done whether you're looking to split a room up or even just block up a disused doorway easy you