it's all busted again so gluing a ABS I see gives me the most successful formulas are getting it right now I've been on the internet and I some very helpful guys have got some really good how-to stuff out there and I've learned that I can now weld this with a soldering iron so I'm going to show you how to go about it it's much more successful welding than glue okay so the first thing we got to do is clean all this old glue off because the well won't really be very successful and it's all that rubbish is gone now what here we have the twine all clean back right back to bare plastic I'm looking at this I've come to the conclusion that it has been repaired before which is probably why it broke so easily you get the break when I was removing the ashtray originally I thought I was responsible but having a look at this that undercoat is not not common with VW plastic parts this piece is fairly badly broken there's quite a few contours we have to follow here so what we'll be doing is tacking it in a couple of little places and then lining it up after that now because there's so much damage is typical to find a point where we've got the original two joint this is the best prospect we've got right here where we can see the original contour of the piece so that's where we be doing our first tack we've got this at this area fairly flush through here which is important so that our first tack will be going here because it's about the only place where there's any plastic meeting yes good okay what we have here is just a an el cheapo little LED solar e9 that if we picked up at a hardware shop for about fifteen dollars that's what we'll be using to do our world I'm now handing over to my camera woman because it's pretty hard to do this with one hand we're going to this we're going to this spot here where I'll explain it meets quite well and we're going to just go straight in with the heat get both sides and that's attack take the well and try and fold it back in on itself that gives you a fairly neat tack to start with we now have a situation where we've welded through here these were all the joins actually met so we've been able to get a tight join there okay note that this now still very large gap through this section here so obviously that was filled with glue right from the start now we're going to have to fill that this console is actually abs polycarbonate so we're going to use some old scraps here and we're going to melt them into that gap and then continue the welding process those scraps came from these broken tabs or we prepared one here and one here but these were all broken we'll replace them later we're holding this bit of ABS down with this axle to avoid burning our fingers obviously you need just now to fill this gap so we're just going to run the solder on down through it there she goes nothing down so we can get it down and running into that big chap day mmm keep melding and pushing down into that gap I'd we've got some fill on the top of year that's held in place now by heat but you'll see that we've made absolutely no impact on this gap whatsoever so we've now got to melt all that fill down into that gap you can virtually go right through you actually want to be forcing this down into that cap don't be worried about melting the existing plastic that forms an even better bond now we start to roll as fill into the gap keep pushing filling right so we filled the whole area with ABS mud for one of a better word have a broader you get these stitches better we're trying to do is merge the ABS mud with the old surface forming a nice strong bond don't be frightened to get a bit of depth into it now level those joins out a bit just go very lightly with the tip of your iron hold it sort of flat and that saves a lot of sandy leave it on if you had need to move it around a bit it's not cooperating the sweat gets it fairly good from here we'll move to the back because I've found from experience you think you've got it but you had to choose into these discs rakia you know we've come through with some of their mud so we got to get down to that make sure you get it from the back if you die still be caught the two thing yeah I'm going to put some copper stitches in the back here I'll cut that and look at that in the next we're using just copper wire eight stitches using this copper wire I'm reinforced the back of the of the crack I've already welded one down in there you probably won't be able to see it but this is the system get the heat into that copper wire and keep pressing down and actually bury it into the end of the ABS and she goes yeah all right so we've laid the copper wire down into a groove I've already welded for four in here I've pushed it right down with this iron you get the heat into the copper press down and really bury it right down into the plastic is create a really strong stitch there we go we're pushing down and down it's goes into the plastic being forcing the whole area but all those couple wires have now been buried by running the iron flat over all the abs so that's really create a really strong job now time to sand this back and see what we've got okay he's the repair so far it's sanded up pretty well still a few little holes that we can see there wasn't perfect but boy gee it's pretty good now I don't like heating those to fill the holes I find it easier to use a brew it mixed up here this is an ABS brew it's mixed up mixed up by using Lego blocks which are guaranteed abs you see a few guys complaining that they buying ABS and it turns out to not be abs well the Lego is definitely ABS it's been dissolved in methyl ethyl ketone which is just promised plumbers priming fluid and that's a little brew that we've got mixed up there we're just going to grab a little bit of that and just use it here and there to patch up these holes that's how we're going to be doing it all the holes filled and back to pretty much original condition but this has been a healthier