hey it's bobby from brew hardware calm and i'm going to do a video on soldering the new tri clover to radius flange adapter and i've done a video on doing the soldering of welding spuds onto a poppet there's a couple of nuance differences that i'd show you specifically about how to get this to mate up to the pot nicely and also how to hold it there one of the differences between the spud and the new radius flange adapter is the fact that there's a boss on the back of a welding spud that you would have to make the hole large enough to fit inside and basically it used to be a inch and 5/8 hole that was required so because the inside diameter of this radius flange is only inch and 3/8 you can actually use a large step bit to get to that size so it's a little bit more inexpensive to install rather than using a radio punch probably a smallest size hole you would want to make in your pot for this thing is an inch and a quarter but if you want it to be a clean hole all the way through at this same diameter it's ancient 3/8 alright so the radius on this thing is 8 inch so it's perfectly suited for a 16 inch diameter pot but there definitely is some wiggle room as far as what diameter pot this happens to go - we're taking a educated guess at this point based on some test fitting and it looks like something between a 12 inch diameter and a 20 inch diameter is acceptable you might be able to extend that even further but I wouldn't go making any guarantees that you could I'll show you how some of those variations can be taken care of some of the things you're going to need to perform silver soldering now the purists are gonna catch me on this and say it's not really silver soldering unless you're doing it at brazing temperatures what we're talking about is using a solder that has some silver in it in basically like the Harris stay bright product has 4% silver the stay bright eight has six percent silver the benefit to using a solder that has silver in it is its strength it definitely holds up to heating and cooling cycles a lot better than regular let free plumbing solder that you'd find that the big-box stores so this stuff is more expensive because silver is expensive but it's definitely worth doing it right the first time this is stay bright eight in sixteen and sixteenth of an inch diameter this comes in eighth inch diameter as well and I don't like it as much because I tend to put a little bit too much solder in in the joint with the larger solder you're going to also use the Harris State clean liquid only flux you want liquid not the paste this is a very aggressive acid flux that wets the stainless better than other fluxes you can also get this as an inexpensive kit with a you know just enough solder and flux to do a couple of these without having to buy a pound spool so you get a half ounce of regular Harris stay bright solder and you get a little bottle squeeze bottle of stay clean liquid flux you can get this at your local welding shop and you can also buy it from Brevard we're calm if rather you'll also need a torch you know with an adjustable flame and the fuel bottle this happens to be map gas but propane would be just fine actually it's it's a little bit more forgiving because it doesn't heat is fast now you definitely want to do this where there's a breeze or some good ventilation because as this flux heats up it boils and it's nasty you also probably want to wear some eye protection as well as gloves if you're not used to working with soldered objects I I've been doing this long that I know not to grab the things that are hot so I'm going to do it barehanded today now you want to make the hole in your pot pretty far down on on the surface but you want to avoid the point at the bottom where it starts really turning under you don't want to put this on to too much of a curve you could dry fit the flange and sort of eyeball it and go down as far as you can without the too much of a gap showing up at the bottom this particular hole has been made to inch and a half of it now that's intranets inch and three-eighths but these extra holes were put because I was prototyping a different kind of bulkhead when you make your hole you're just going to make this engine 3/8 hole so one of the first things you want to do to help line this thing up on the pot properly is if you look at the part that's radius it's probably hard to see on the camera but you'll see the tooling marks from where they made the radius they machine this radius in here you'll see these stripes or lines this is an indicator of what the up-down direction is so if you take a sharpie marker and you just you sort of look at the lines and you find the center you can just eyeball it but I could see that the lines are going in this direction and the center is about here so I make a mark and then I follow that stripe down to the bottom and make them work down there now these I'm going to transfer that to the face of the trike lower flange as well what this is going to do these are going to be your indexing marks so that you can get a rough idea of what the top and bottom is so this is the the vertical axis now someone had asked how you will hold this in place while you're going to solder unlike you know with the spud you could drop this into the hole and sort of let you know that lock it into place so it doesn't slide around well you're going to want to use some sort of made up tool to hold it in place you could use a pair of washers like fender washers with a bolt and not going through it but I made this thing up this is just a toggle bolts you can see that this sort of rotates down and this is a piece of stainless tubing that I drilled a hole through and so with a couple nuts and washers you can see that you can make a clamping tool that you can also you could also kind of look down through it in these spaces to be able to make sure that you've got your hole lined up if you used fender washers on the top and bottom the problem is is that you can't see if you've got it centered over the hole anymore if you're really careful you can Center it hold it very still and have someone cinch up the the bolt with the two washers holding it together but I much prefer the idea of using this kind of tool to to be sure that you've got the holes concentric and lined up right you could also you can go and get a pair of toggle bolts and use one of these on each side of the bolt or you can make something up completely on your own by just taking a piece of flat bar or a piece of tubing and drill holes in two pieces and then just use your nuts to to tighten these two together and one advantage of having a sort of a the bar going across inside the pot is that you can use it to apply pressure to the areas of the wall that need to be drawn closer to the flange so as an example if your if your pot diameter is smaller than 16 inch what you would want to do is run run your flat bar inside horizontally like this so that you pull the gap on the two sides closer to the flange so always put this behind the area that has the most gap now when you tighten this it it reduces the size of that gap now it's gonna be hard to show with the way the cameras position but you want to take your sandpaper a memory cloth or a 3m scrubbing pad whatever you have to scuff this stainless up and you want to scuff it up and clean it with the sandpaper in about a half inch doughnut around the center hole everywhere where you're expecting solder to adhere especially under the flange surface itself we want to just scuff it up and clean it up and do way more than you think is necessary want this to be very clean and also have a nice texture to it all right and do the same to your flange all right so take your flange scuff it up in all directions use a wire brush on a bench grinder or you could use a flap wheel on your angle grinder there are a lot of different power methods of doing this but you can also get by with a nice coarse piece of sandpaper as well yeah you could use acetone or other fast drying spirit be extremely careful with acetone it's really nasty stuff you want to use a solvent to get all of your finger grease and the machining oil and the sanding grit off of the surface you'll also want to clean around this flange you you want a little bit of the solder to beat up on the on the joint now once you wipe this down do not touch the surface with your fingers you could wear some rubber gloves to make sure that that doesn't happen all right now when it takes some of our flux if you use the soldering kit you will have in a squeeze bottle I have to use a pipette because I'm taking it out of a much larger container but you can go ahead and smear some flux in the area where the solder will go you want to thoroughly wet that area and here's where you use those indexing marks that we made earlier Center it over the hole you could look inside and Center it and then just eyeball the to indexing marks so that they're in the vertical direction on the pot and I have it pretty firmly clamped in there I can't move the flange around I can't rotate it at all all right now more flux in the joint no doubt we've lost a little bit of it now I like to heat up the pot a little bit but keeping the flame moving and just directing the flame to the general area around where we're going to solder you don't want it if you go right after the work area with the plane the the mass of the pot is just going to keep scaling a lot of that heat away I mean it's gonna be very frustrating but at the same time you don't want to overheat the pot it is thin wall and you don't want to spend too much time in any one area I'm just warming up the pot on the bottom a little bit and now I'm going to start eating up the tool and then I'm going to concentrate on the solder ferrule move around to various sides this is a lot easier to do if you have it up on a work bench or a sawhorse prepare so horses where you can walk around it easily and if it's up at chest height it's a lot easier to do take it a shortcut here so test it out plus the heat with the flame removes can you get it to flow at the joint it's not flowing at all I know that you've got a way to go you're gonna see the flux start boiling a little bit nothing yet nothing okay it is flowy now joint okay we got that side pretty good we're gonna move on with you this side I can see that my flux has run out on that side again it splatters and boils and that the fumes are nasty don't put your face over that and then to the other side you want easier for that's what I'm doing the pots definitely sinking that some Becky bring it up a little bit and then I'm going to go right back to water on the flange I'm not getting it to flow yet back in heat eight seconds on the heat try it again not flowing one two three four it's flowing out okay stop right here that means not a heat couple more seconds blowing nicely as long as it's flowing there's no reason to hold the heat on there you will overheat this very quickly Pete go back and see if it plays it is and definitely that's one of the ways you're going to get the nicest looking joint if you don't go crazy with the heat you can almost see it liquefied if you hit a spot where it doesn't seem like it's adhering it means you need to drop some flux in there now the question how much solder do you need to apply to the joint well if you don't have any visible gaps when you clamp that ferrule down then it's not going to take a lot at all in fact if it's flowing well and you see a slight curve of solder sort of bridging between the pot wall and the outside of the flange you can be pretty sure that that joint is already saturated on the inside in other words the gap between the two surfaces is already full of solder certainly if you see it dripping out on the interior hole its supersaturated but especially if it's starting to form sort of that that fill it on the edge there it's telling you that there's really no more room for the solder in the joint itself because otherwise it would have licked itself into the joint now if you want that solder to look it's best you really don't want to mess with this right now okay I do have a paper towel with some water on it you can you can go around just a little bit around the edges so to just get a little of that burnt flux off while this joint is really hot and it flashed themes some of that burnt flux and that's just going to make it easier to clean after this whole thing cools but you want to be careful that you don't cool anything too rapidly like don't go dousing this with water and don't spray it down because you're going to get the pot to contract on one side or the other really quickly and it could pull the solder joint apart but you can go ahead and sort of dab the ferrule what a cool little bit the more this cools the more cleaning you to do please don't touch the Faro itself that thing is well it was around 500 degrees when we got the solder to flow well I think it's 430 if you want to get technical but we probably overheated just a little bit all right so this is relatively cool the pots still pretty warm to the touch [Applause]