Ony my Linux systems, `man 1 man` mentions the `MANWIDTH` environment variable, which, now that I look it up, is also specified in the FreeBSD `man(1)` manpage:
MANWIDTH If set to a numeric value, used as the width manpages should
be displayed. Otherwise, if set to a special value ``tty'',
and output is to a terminal, the pages may be displayed over
the whole width of the screen.