Artificial intelligent assistant

Please explain how to assemble layers for machine applique

hi i'm wendy from shiny happy world and today i'm going to show you one more skill in the basic machine applique technique that i use we've already talked about the basic technique how to do convex curves how to do concave curves how to do points and how to do notches what i'm going to show you today is how to look at a pattern and figure out what's going to be layered over what on a more complicated pattern where you have to decide what sits on top what which pieces sit on top of and which piece is tucked behind other pieces so this is the pattern that we're working with i've already prepared all of the fabric pieces but what i want and i've left their their freezer paper behind them so i can really show you where i left raw edges hanging and where i folded things over so i'm going to dismantle him now that you've seen him and we're going to start with the bottom of this pattern so the bottom of the pattern is going to sit on the block and you want to make sure the block is going to have seam allowance to it so you want to make sure that the bottom of this piece also has seam allowance on it so that's something that we are not going to fold up so now i'll show you on the back of this piece see this is the bottom of his mouth i folded the freezer paper i folded the raw edge over the freezer paper on all of the top sides but i've left it hanging at the bottom you always put the freezer paper on and then cut it out roughly around the edge leaving a seam allowance most of those seam allowances get folded over what we're talking about here is what not to fold over so on this bottom piece we're not folding over that bottom edge because it's basically going to be lined up with the edge of the block and it's going to end up in the seam allowance so that's the first piece so we would line that up with the raw edge at the bottom of the block of course you'd pull the freezer paper out first but i'm just going to leave it in there the next piece on here to look at we're going to ignore the eyes and the teeth for now we're going to look at the face the top of the face this is going to tuck behind the mouth the general rule of thumb is that the wider piece always goes on top of the narrower piece so this guy has a little bit of an underbite so i designed the block so it would be easy so that this bottom piece is obviously a little bit wider than the top it makes his mouth look cuter and it also makes your construction a lot easier so for the top piece i've done the same thing that we did for the bottom piece i folded over the seam allowance on the three top sides and i left it hanging out at the bottom so that we can tuck that edge underneath the lower jaw so i'm going to show you here we would pull that paper off and we would tuck that behind there so now what we've got on the on the block so far is no raw edges anywhere except at the raw edge of the block so the raw edge of this chop jaw is completely hidden under the clean edge of the lower jaw because the lower jaw is a little bit wider so that allows it to completely cover that edge so the next thing we're going to look at are the horns and of course the horns are narrower than these top edge top edges so they're going to be tucked underneath that top part it's also going to help to make the horns look like they're growing out of the head if they were sitting on top of the top fabric that would look kind of weird but when i prepared them again i folded all the raw edges under the edges that are going to be visible and the one that's going to be tucked under is what's left out so that this would tuck behind on this side and this i did prepared the same way the raw edges folded over and left out just where it's going to tuck underneath the side of the head so that's going to go under there and again we've got that step done the next parts on here and now everything that's exposed is a folded clean edge so that the raw edges of the horns are going to be hidden under the finished sides of the face the eyeballs are just floating in there so they're really easy that's obviously has to go on top of here so those pieces i've i've shown you in another video how to make the eyeballs like this but it leaves you with a raw cut edge on the back so just make sure that you're turning them with the clean side up and then the last piece is the tooth and i decided not to use the freezer paper on this because it was so small i was going to burn my fingers trying to fold these over so instead i sewed two pieces together and turned them right side out and just left the bottom open for turning this does two things it allows me not to fuss with the freezer paper and the folding on a small piece but it also allows me to make this a floppy tooth so i'm going to tuck that raw edge underneath the lower jaw and i'm you can choose you can either sew it down all the way around that edge or you can just catch the bottom of it as you sew the bottom jaw in place and then if this is for a kid which it probably is they can flap that tooth and just kind of play with it so again the raw edge at the bottom of the tooth is tucked behind the much wider edge of the lower jaw so that's it it's actually a really a pretty easy rule of thumb to remember narrower smaller pieces get tucked behind wider or larger pieces that also helps them make them look like they're growing more naturally out of the body of whatever you're making this is also a really good technique to use if you want to convert an embroidery pattern to an applique pattern most applique patterns will give you some tips on what tucks behind what but an embroidery pattern isn't designed for applique so it's not going to have that kind of instructions for you but you can easily do that yourself now that you know how to put those layers together i'm wendy from shiny happy world i'll see you next time

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