I guess so funny project shade this one's using illuminated photo frames intelligent being animated photo frame now that's sounds a bit weird doesn't but what I mean it's it's just gonna be some photo frames like these ones here this is a little bit of reflection on that this is a rebirth or River photo frame from Ikea and it's a box right it's really deep I think it's probably alien sheep incorrect it probably says on here does it no it doesn't anyway it's quite deep roughly the depth of the box just about and you can take it back off and you can move the the insert forward so it sits at the front of the glass step and I'll show you one that I've done that with so you can move the amount the squirm out there to the front and put a future there now on the back you can see that as you can see this sort of like a a lit up section where the light is hitting it now that's the square the front illuminating pictures look like a knock from them back there and I've sort of just taped it on now what I'm doing with these is on the back I'm putting some LED strip now that's that comes in a roll like this and it's a strip of LEDs now these on the waterproof ones these are SMD 5050 LEDs or 3850 3850 actually and you can connect these with wires on a board like this I'll show you how to do this in a second but it means that you can just power them from these two bits here when you buy a kit of these geez when you buy a kit of these it will come on roll like this and you'll also get a power adapter now I'll show you one that I've already plugged in and wired up now this one's actually on and you can see it's on board subside now you can see it's on let me just turn it off so you can see the difference so that's it off I'm looking at that preview window for you whatever my eyes ago I know it is on again now they work pretty well in the daylight but they look a lot better at night and on the back you see it's relatively clean you've just got this this cable hanging off to the adapter which is just a normal pin adapter plug in the data and it has some screws here to Accession let's get a bit of a closer this closer up close up so you can see they look pretty good just with one plugged in and it's relatively easy to do if you combine these then really quite expensive if you want to buy an illuminated photo frame just search on the internet it's not actually very easy to find and if you do find them they're quite expensive now the strip LED stuff which I've lost you now the strip LED stuff sorry I did lose it now this stuff here it cost me about 12 pounds delivered off eBay I won't be able to find real link but I'll give you the exact title for it and an adapter it cost me about 12 pounds to buy and it got it 5 meters this stuff says it's pretty long and as you can see only on this here I'm not using an awful lot that's maybe 60 70 centimeters worth they probably and you don't even need all that much if you only wanted to illuminate just that small portion on here that small square you'd only need to put lines enough to cover that now I've put plenty more on here so that I could illuminate the whole thing and take out that square mount if I wanted to but I'm at the moment I'm just using the square so you make an awful lot these things from just 10 meters of the LED strip and these can be soldered on to each other you can cut these every I think 3 rows 3 LEDs there's a cut points on here you just snip that and then take off the waterproof coating now I wish I had bought the waterproof one it's just a lot more annoying but it doesn't maybe you could put in a kitchen underneath some cupboards and now what am I gonna do with these well I want them to be in till in intelligently illuminated it's brilliant I'm upset that word isn't it I want to be intelligently illuminated so that means I'm going to use the Arduino obviously and I'm gonna plug it in by this adapter which is rigged to the 2 amps and it kicks out 12 volts so that's to power the LEDs but it will power the five meter strip which means I can connect them in any way and power law now I anticipate getting four of these done and still having a lot of LEDs left over and I want to be able to illuminate them individually now to do that you could use a relay but I'm gonna use a transistor let me just get one I've got two transistors two different types only because I got something free and I had buys them so this one here is a TI p 3 1a and it's perfectly powerful enough for perfectly within the limits of the 12 volt 2 m adapter that I've got I'm only using as a switch I'm not going to use it to magnify anything and the other one I've got which I bought from Macklin and I think it's about a pound 20 something like that it's a B D x3 3 C and again that's perfectly acceptable for what I need plenty of transistors will be perfectly fine for 12 volts and 2 amps just if using them just as a switch you don't need to amplify anything in this and it's a project so you're just going to use them as a switch and you can also use some possible width modulation from the Arduino so that you can turn this on and off really really quickly and dim the LEDs which is great if you're going to do it with some lighting so if you wanted it to react to the ambient lighting of the room for example so today like today you don't really want the the LEDs to light up in the daytime or maybe you do but you can use a light dependent resistor and allow that to change their possibly manipulation pulse width modulation on the pins but I'm going to be using it so I can turn them on and off depending upon another sensor now I was going to use RFID and I still AM but unfortunately I only have one RFID token key fob thing I was meant to get five but they only sent me one so I only got one of those but what I'm gonna do instead is a clap switch using electric and Electric microphone I can't speak today everybody grim pitbull anyway I want it to be white just clap it will turn on and we'll see if that works out but at the moment I'm just going to show you how to set up these as just illuminated photo frames you can just plug in now total cost of these is under 10 pounds which is very very very good and you can you stand at photos in them too so you don't need to get anything special printed there's no juror friends or anything like that involved so you don't need something about HP things go up at the top it's pretty awesome it's one of my favorite projects so only this is purely because it just looks aesthetically pleasing that's basically it but I'll I'll get on showing you how to solder these things and cut up the LED strip and we'll look how it works okay so the first thing we want to do with our frame is take the back off it's a bit noisy sorry so this is a section we're going to put the LEDs on once we dismantle it you'll see that the glass is here we're going to keep that safe we're going to put that back into the other section now it might be worth cleaning the glass before you before you put it all back together again you get this cell section here which is just slightly smaller than the frame and if you wanted to change the position so that the low mount is at the front you would just put that in with the mount at the bottom but if you want it like we do with the sorry if you wanted to have it so that the pictures at the front you put the picture in first and then the square on top which is what we want to do so I'm just at that side for now and this is the part of mount that's where your pitch is going to be stuck to the back so that was shown it through there so you put all of that out away from now now we've got our little cardboard cardboard MDF type bit of board that goes on the back and luckily there's a they've cut off the corner point here so that we can get some wires out if we need to I think it's there so that you can peel this off but actually it's really useful for this so what we want to do is we want to measure out our LED strip and it looks like we need three six nine twelve LEDs per row and I'm gonna put four of these going down so I need to get a pair of scissors hold on so cut pro scissors so we want to count across but you can just do it by eye which is what I'm going to do so I'm going to cut there just here and there are there are cuts so I'm just gonna snip it off with the normal pair of scissors now what's great about this LED strip is that it has an adhesive backing so you can peel this back off here and then it's got a sticky section here so that means you can glue it straight to the back of here which is great so I'm gonna go ahead and cut a few more of these right as long as you cut the other sections you can just lay them out if you just do it by all you which is what I've done you could measure it if you wanted it to be exact but these only these have quite a wide throw distance so they'll they'll illuminate quite far around them and so you don't need to worry too much about how its actual being now again if you wanted to just illuminate that small square you would only need two fingers with that - actually I would punch these in together a little bit and you would only need to use that many LEDs so that's those bits there so really you could make an awful lot of photo frames just from those that LED strip that you bought for 12 pounds but I want to make the whole thing sort of future preaching my future proofing myself so I'll go ahead and down and stick things on Oh before you do that actually one important thing is to line up the positive and negatives that when you daisy chain them they're all in the right orientation so we want them all to be around the right orientation so the top here they're marked let's see if I can show you so you can see it's got positive there and negative there and we want a daisy-chain them so they need to all be in the same orientation so I'm going to do the first one on with positive at the top so just peel that back and if I make sure it's roughly in the middle like that that should be fine I'll go ahead and do the rest of those actually I sort of missed our step here this probably isn't easiest way to do it to take because I haven't taken the waterproof coating off the ends you probably need to do that first before you glue the one in so I've made a little bit of a mistake there I'll rectify that in a second but I'll first show you how to remove the waterproof coating right to remove that waterproof coating we've got our a bit of LED strip here I'm just going to use a Stanley knife and I'm just gonna make a very small cut I'm not gonna press that too hard because I don't want to run the copper tracks underneath but I do just want to start peeling some of this away so it's very gentle to start with if you haven't done it enough you can just go back again in and do a bit more and then if I just peel it down like that I've cut enough away so that I can just pull it off like that and that exposes these copper tracks here that you can solve it directly onto so I'm gonna do that with all of these and then we'll come back and have a look where we are and then we can stick them onto the board right now I've cut all the sections off all the little bits that are on these bins they've all been cut off and I behind them also is positive negative positive on top negative on the bottom along the line here so that we can daisy chain them around now we need to get soldering now I've got a young a variable-speed don't really see that can it variable speeds so variable speed I think I mean variable heat soldering which is really useful I need to wet this little pad here so that I can clean my soldering on and then we'll get started before we make our first connection I'd like to just show you demonstrate how you can a daisy chain these together now I've got the completed board here and again I've got positive at the top and negative at the bottom now to date I know it looks a bit of a mess because it is the soldering these isn't the easiest thing in the world what we're not do is connect every positive to every positive like this all the way to the end so running along here we've got positive at the top it comes down to positive on this bottom section here positive there it's positive there and again running like that and the same with the negative don't here so that the current can flow now oddly current files from the negative to the positive but we always say that they're the way around because of convention so the positive is the current going through that actually it goes backwards it's certain it's weird anyway so that's what we're going to do so we're going to make our first connections around here just because that's where I set up the camera and it's easiest to see anything so this if this soldering irons hot yeah all right it's pretty hot let's see if we can just tin it up a little bit now I'm just using lead-free solder now some people say it's not very good but I'm not gonna get the horrible toxic fumes so yeah if it's it's tinning up okay now it's probably best rope in a window I've been doing this unfortunately I live on a busy road so it would be noisy in here if I did that now what I want to do first is I'm just gonna heat up the pad make sure there's none of that plastic left on it for burn away on soldering iron if there is I just want to get rid of any of them and then we're gonna need to get some wire so we need a small bit of wire so let's just focus this in so you can see it all I've got here is just a little bit of wire with a tiny bit stripped off at the end just copied copper solid core wire I'm going to solder it directly onto here now it's not the easiest thing to do because I've got to hold the wire solder and apply all the soldering iron and apply some solder at the same time and this Y needs to curl around to the bottom of the positives so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna Bend each section of the wire a little bit so sort of matches up there we go let's just try this first time now I'm going to heat up both of the contacts or both of the wire and solder a feed solder onto the soldering line I think that's made a connection it has it didn't look great I think this my soldering zon is a little bit dirty I could do with some sanding of that tip a little bear think but the connection is all in it it's holding so it's not coming off so I know that it's made a solid connection now we want to solder to the next positive now this is difficult bit because you're using a small bit of wire to connect to a tiny tiny pad and you've got to keep it in the right place so it's a bit difficult all right that should do so I'm gonna come on with the soldering on again I'm just gonna hold down on the wire and then feed the solder onto the pad and to the soldering iron so just let it heat up for a second and then I can apply the solder there we go and that's made another solid connection so I'm going to go ahead into all of these so you can see the most difficult part is is doing the minus on these sides the negative because you're solving really really close to some other things you've already sold it in fact I'll show you that as well so we just need to get a bit more wire I'm going to use green for this bit so we need to take off a very small bit and just roughly measure up where you need it to go that's that why it's not really long enough to run my hand just going to use that there we go so it's got another small bit of wire here and we just need to solder that directly onto there so that should do it hopefully we'll see this could go terribly wrong I'm just going to come at it from a different direction I think I know you can't really see that sorry move over here a little bit right done hopefully that's a solid enough connection it's not going the way says you've done right or Dec get the second one done please take a good half an hour to solder because they're so fiddly right okay now I'm only using different colored wires just so that I can differentiate just in case I solder over the oh no that's not worked it's all very hands a bit dirty so it's not working there we go so those connections are solid now so these two lines are connected so you could connect some you could connect positive and negative at this end in power and like this whole row up they don't need to be connected together at the end or anything they're just going to terminate there so that's the best part of it I'll show you when it's finished right so we're pretty much done I've made the connections along here along here so it's following on again so positive to positive next navigate and daisy chains of meringue like that I did start in the middle the board which is mistake because really should start from the top and go dance that you know which sites solar on I've got some long wise here so completely finished it terminates here we don't need to do anything with that in fact I didn't need to strip it but I did anyway and wise will come out here so we've got two sections here to solder and then we're gonna plug it in and see what happens so I just sold those and I'll get back to you right so that's all soldered on that's probably the ugliest bit of soldering I've ever done but it works well hopefully we'll see now I've got this little connector here and it's a screw terminal so I need to put positive into the positive end of the terminal just do that and then well screw that shouts really how this works now embarrassing if it doesn't and wanna talk about I'll just edit it out and then negative then I mean can't really see what I'm doing later it's not the easiest thing Scoobies so that's they're all attached and it's running all along the board so I've got the the power adapter up here you can't make you see it but this will connect in so fingers crossed and there we go excellent so that took all of 15 minutes just to solve it together and that's mainly because it's a little bit fiddly but it seems to work perfectly so only attach that to a frame in fact there's a mouse see what that looks like in size frame so here we've got the frame here so if I just think this better how if I put me the square mountains let's put this bed in as well this is just between the frame just so we've got something to illuminate if I back in so now we've got it at the front I already see just sorry it's a bit noisy if we put this back on if as you notice we're gonna be feeding the wires out for the saw hole here and we just pin it down we cannot turn over to reveal the frame again and plug it in and there we go complete now that was pretty simple all of that stuff but the next bit will be making it intelligent and that's what we put the Arduino in but I'm really that four-part toons I think they've been pretty long already but these are really simple to make so if you want to make one in fact I'll make two or make three then it's really cheap these were three times 50 for Mike here the the LED strip was like 11 pounds 11 12 pounds so if you bought a bunch of those with 5 meters of LED strip you can easily do sticks so I think that works out pretty cheap how much is that 6 times 3 but at 18 that's right isn't it 18 pounds and then the other bit so that's there to quit for 6 divided by 6 5 pounds hang on that right there might be right about 5 footage anyway that's my math skills for you I had none basically so about 5 foot each routine so they're under 10 pounds but with all the other bits you need to buy like soldering iron or that kind of stuff it's going to bump it up to around 10 pounds each of them if you've already got that stuff it becomes really really cheap now with that to work you only have one adaptee or have to daisy chain them all together or the picture frames and connect the positive to positive all that stuff but if you've bought loads of other adapters you can make them stand alone so just give it a go all right well thanks for watching and part 2 will include some intelligent nation I guess this is just the basics is saying its start and I've been on to the transistors and the sensors after that alright thanks for watching