well this carbamide small tutorial in this guy you're going to show you how you can take an existing part or a pattern and create a model that you can then go on to use for carbon-fiber lamination or even just hyper glass let's take a look at what you get the kick more making party and the armor to go with it Jocko first lay that on the toilet mold release one sp8 mixing total sticks do the items with your need obviously you come home you go to bully mold up in this case we've got small anything plus the theme and good baseboard work so first thing you want to do is take a look at your part and work out where you want to put barriers and basically you want to be able to extend the surface of the part all the way around this part's got a flat base on it so we can put it down onto a baseboard that'll make you find your answer we just need to extend down the side there with a little bit of modeling clay so apply that just standard stuff available from most toy stores I'm sure stick it onto the back nice thick barrier and then we'll be applying this down onto the board work it all the way around make sure you've got decent overlap because we're going to go over it now with a knife and cut it flat and smooth so you've got a crisp clean edge this will all be on the face of your mold seal the part down as we put it onto a baseboard we're just going to put a little bead of the modeling clay around the bottom edge and then we're just going to press it down onto the board and that'll mean that any gel coat that we applied doesn't run underneath it and give it a mechanical walk again once it's pressed down I'm going to trim around it get a nice clean edge with a knife that way the mold will be really neat and easy to clean and work with so now we're going to wax apart you can wax apart a few times before you start this process but you really need to do a few hits once it's once it's on this board because you will have knocked some bits of the wax off so work all the way around really focus on the flanges the main area the part you want to do probably five to be on the safe side waxes leaving it five minutes between each one buffing it off and reapplying it then once you've done this you know apply a PVA and this really ensures that you you're not going to have any problems with the the part sticking into your mold so nice thin even coat all over the surface just wipe it on and leave it to dry normally takes around about 20 minutes depends on the temperature obviously just give it a quick touch test basically if it's if it's dry it's ready to go and you can cycle coat onto it we're going to mix up the gel coat now you want to try and gauge enough gel coat too to put a good thick coat over the over the surface of the part like a thick paint really and so pour out as much as you need and then you're going to be putting into the hardener the hardener with the gel coat at 10% you want to be gripped with the way measure it and then you want to mix it really quite thoroughly so when you mixing they'll try not to sort of whip it up too vigorously because you'll get little air bubbles in the gel and that isn't great for the surface of the mold so just sort of gradually stir it in I'd really recommend spending two or three minutes doing it making sure it's scraped all from the side of the pot and then you can take the gel coat and apply it to the part rush the gel coat down as as thickly as it'll go without it sort of wanting to run off and sag off the part thicker it is and the more you will have to sand and polish in to on the final part the more durable generally the molds are within reason and so good fit coat making sure it's all over your flanges and really in 20 any nooks and crannies on your mold right now you've left your part for approximately three hours depending on your room temperature and basically looking pretty gets the point where you've still got tacky sticky surface to the gel but it's basically gone hard and then what you're going to be doing now is applying the putty onto the back of that which is a reinforced slightly trusting material it's got all the fiber of the reinforcement already in there and you're mixing it just by hand into a go essentially apply matter back to the gel coat to mix it up again gauge how much you're going to need over the part you're looking for a roundabout sort of 10 or 15 mil half an inch or so we use in plastic sheet here underneath it keeps the process clean and it's a good surface to work on you can throw it away when you're done and much like baking a cake putting an egg in just sort of gradually mix it mix it together and then knead it into a nice consistent dough as soon as it's the colors nice and even all the way through it's ready to be put down on the part put it down flattening out onto a piece of paper flatten it out onto your plastic and then they're about the right size for the part pick it up and drop it over pressing it down over the surface really focusing into any sort of corners and edges because you don't want any air voids underneath it but it's pretty straightforward Pat it down neaten it up and let it harden which parts fully on all the back is really solid and normally at least overnight 24 hours is ideal should be ready for the release so then you go for it on this one what you want to do get underneath part pull it away from your baseboard and then remove any get a Sumerian check when he the gel hasn't bled underneath the part basically the biggest problem you normally get with releases mechanical lock where the mould sort of blood underneath it so clean up around the edges you can even just go in with a with a scraper in and release just the corners and give it a good yank and there he is it will come out mold and it's just a piece of giving it a trim up sanding the edges back smooth and going on and polishing it and prepping it for a release of parts very easy with standard tools just to sand and shape it and smoothen all the edges off so it's a nice mold to work with we've taken the mold now removes all of the sort of excess around the edges we've softened it all up smooth or what's nice to handle our solid model it's just a case now doing the final stages a little bit of fattening and polishing up and get it ready to put our truck you can remove any burrs and sharp edges with fine sandpaper and go through the grits to sort of twelve hundred grit ideally and then use polishing compounds and paste if it needs an extra polish and you want to high-gloss part and just buff all the way over the surface and then it'll be ready for the preparation a wax and PVA and ready to take parts from for information on that check out some of our other videos or our website you