good morning everyone and we are back in school or so today we are going to make some more wet pockets but we are going to insert a little flap at the top so we're doing a single and a double world with a flap but we're still using the cheats version next week we're going to do the proper pocket so let's get started we're going to make one pocket again the cheats way with a flap and a well showing on the top and a well showing on the lower part so we've got two lips here so double well pocket and then we're going to do the same one as a single wild pocket here so what you need is our piece of fabric to test out your pocket I'm using a corduroy which has a nap that means it has a direction and you need to be careful that you have it so it's smooth going down and when you cut out your pocket the direction here needs to be across because you've got these quarter lines and they look really silly if they go the other way and then as you're lining for your pocket you might want to use a different fabric so it's not so thick first of all we want to sew around here when you're sewing around I'm using a stitch length of about two especially when you sew around curves you want quite a smaller stitch length so that when you cut it back it doesn't fray now with my pocket sewn I'm just going to cut it back why quick sticks right smartly and turn your pocket and now I'm going to just work out my curve but that actually comes out quite nicely as long as you cut it back well enough it'll look really good right now let's just give this a quick press yeah and stitch around it when you're top stitching it's really the same as any other stitch you need to line it up with a fixed point on your presser foot for me it's always a tiny little red line and then just keep it steady on there and put the needle down lift the presser foot and turn as you need to so you keep like the right distance all the way through I really like using my triple stitch so I did this for one of the pockets on the top because then you don't need a broidery thread and it's like really really thick and I do like that and here I've used my triple stitch which I so much love because it gives it so much structure but a lot of machines don't do a very wide one - quite good it's like stitch length just over two I think and a lot of machines then go down to a dinky little stitch which doesn't look good I want to just show you a little trick here that when you get round the corner this will not want to transport so if you thread up a double thread and you go through here before you stitch it like that then when you get to the corner and you've turned you can pull on this to pull it through and to get you that lovely corner so that's a nifty little trick to know isn't it so let's start putting our pocket in again it's very much like I did before so what we have to do is right sides facing you on top of each other and inking us like check that they're in the right position so that these line up obviously we're still doing two lips and a pocket so nothing has really changed and just turn this over and we can draw our pocket on the right side up so this is a little bit different because although we've got it there we can't just go we have got a pocket to get in there and we need to make sure that it's in the right position so the first thing I'm going to do is draw my straight line across where the pocket needs to go that's fine in the middle and then I'm going to take my pocket and I'm going to place my pocket upside down like that so that when it rolls down that's how it sits I find this the easiest way to market one centimeter over the line mark here and Mark there I said job done really doesn't it and then I can put the rest of my pocket young and I can go down here and I wanted to be 1.5 because I'm going to do it in half weighs 1.5 down because then each lip is going to be 0.75 which i think is a really good measurement make sure it's all straight draw through my 0.75 sometimes it's better actually to do it by eye because you can see it so that when I cut this open I know let's go so now it's exactly the same as before we're stitching all the way around and I'm cutting open the lip to stitch your actual pocket I reduce the stitch length to about 1.5 you can go even lower depends on your machine and again you need to make sure that you stay absolutely central to the lines that you've drawn that you don't make it either too big or too small stick with one thing say if your chalk line is you know quite thick stop in front of the chalk line just where it's done and in front of it again on the other side I've done it in red so it's a little bit more visible and I'm gonna go through my lips and again I want to be bang on the center because I'm going to fold my fabric around those lips so we've done this last week doing it again I think repetition sometimes perhaps than that so let's do this again right to the corner but not cutting into your seam obviously and then you go to the other side and same thing again now we can turn the lips through or big lippy bit like you can just pull this out flat so you can see it so we've got it now without the lips and then we want to have the lips iron as we did before we're going to iron this apart here if this is too fast watch the video from last week and down and then the other side i've iearnt my little quarter boy lips you can see now they run in one direction and the actual traveller or whatever you're doing runs the other direction now I'm going to pick up my double stitched pocket here and because I like that the triple stitch one and I'm going to put it in and I can see who did it right so that's where my pocket goes down you can see nicely slaughtered in so that when you're done open it up you've got everything in there that is really beautiful and then sometimes when you haven't done it quite right see you can adjust it a little bit by going out a bit you can light it or that's flatter so I'm going to go just that little bit further down and you've got your pocket in to sit your my pocket I'm just going to lift this up yeah and then grab my pocket here and all I do is this I'm going to pin this exactly where I came to I might want to check that as well that so sure that it hasn't I'm moved or anything turn this back over see if it lies nicely and there and it does so what I can do now is just sew it to the top where I've pinned it to be honest you can leave this step out but if you want to do it secure your pocket so this is what it looks like now from the inside they've just got that line there and from the outside really cute okay so now next step is I'm going to top stitch around my pocket when you're stitching around the pocket it's very important that you start where the flap would close it over so it's not visible you don't want to start right at the top of your pocket and then go as close as you can to the side where you come up because you don't want any of this to be seen you will see some of it when you know the less the better and then keep the same distance at the top as well turn with the needle down lift the presser foot and stitch all the way around this is what it looks like finished so you've got the pocket here I've top stitched all the way around and from the inside I've just caught my pocket there you could make that longer off course and then all I have to do is the same as ever I pick up my pocket here and I just stitch it together stitching all the way around I'm trying to catch a little bit of that triangle it's not really necessary because you've ready caught it when you make the pocket in the first instance but I just like to be closer to it and then I can trim the rest of my pocket often it's really nice and lead and nothing flaps about at pocket done I just going to hop over now and do it with a single weld where it's just attached right to the top and see how that works put my outer over the top off there again I'm going to line this up so pocket on there and I've already drawn my lines to where my pocket is so I do exactly the same as before I stitch all the way around stitched all the way around I do the same now by cutting this open like that and then we do the same as before turn it to like my polka dots and now instead of having the top lip running down the top lip is just going to be ironed apart so that we get a really nice crease in fact I can just do that with my fingers and then press like that and this one is going to be pressed apart but we're going like with it last week we're going all the way ups to fill the whole lot app so that when I turn this over I've got a really big lip there okay like a single lip and then if you want you can take your pocket here and I'm going to slide my pocket in until it fits on the other pocket actually before I did this I secured it to the world but to be honest you don't necessarily have to do that so on this one let's be you lazy ER and just put a pin through here to hold it in place it can't go anywhere and then the whole thing is going to be secured by May just stitching all the way around I've done I stitched all the way around nice combination of white and red here and then you've got your single word underneath it and we're just going to then close the pocket on either side again like this and then just sew on both sides and pocket done one thing to point out is that the pockets tapered so that it covers this gap and of course I could have come in here just a little bit more like that so that absolutely nothing showed but you will always have these few stitches and whether it's nice of them going straight or actually going in a bit I don't know the other way around this of course is you could just top stitch the top pull the threads through and tie them up and then do the same on the lower one I think if you don't have the straight line here you can come in a little bit when you're drawing your pocket so that it's not visible whatsoever whatever you do thank you for watching and I'll see you next week while we'll be making the proper tailors pocket both single and double well see you there right