we have here is uh my daughter's 2004 Chevy Trailblazer has a power steering leak power steering reservoir is over here and the pump is below it and the lines run down across the front there's a power steering cooler down there they come up through here and this right in here is where they tend to start leaking there's a rubber grommet that the lines run through and it holds moisture and salt and any other kind of debris and it just allows the lines to corrode either right here where it goes in or right here where it comes out so in order to address that we're gonna have to cut these sorry for the wind it's really windy today we're gonna to cut these lines and splice in some 3/8 steel tubing with some compression fittings I'm just like know that the videos for educational purposes only you run the risk of damage to your own vehicle I'm not responsible I'm just trying to help people out if they're in a situation this is how I would fix it these are the tools and the parts that I'll be using is a section of 3/8 brake line you can also buy a fuel line kit from doorman the doorman number is 800 - 1 5 3 but I found I saved a little bit of money doing it this way with the 3/8 brake line it was 5 bucks the pair of compression fittings was only 4 dollars so it's nine dollars as opposed to buying a compression fitting and the kit that comes with one compression fitting this saves a few bucks I also have one more pack of these that I'll need to displace the other line anyways we got a flat head screwdriver to disconnect some of the clip holding some of the wires that are in the way a 5/8 wrench a 9/16 wrench a $10 meter socket with ratchet a little bit of sandpaper to clean up the tubing a tubing cutter if you don't have a tubing cutter those are about 10 bucks some brake clean or some engine degreaser some paper towels or a shop rag should be what you need to get the job underway I just wanted to cut in here and just say that there was a couple extra tools now that I've done the job that I wanted to mention that would come in handy a magnetic tool grabber for when you drop things down in the engine compartment which might happen various extensions to reach a 10 millimeter bolt on the bracket that holds the power steering lines to free them up to be able to get a better better rotation on your tubing cutter a quarter inch drive with ten millimeter to be able to get one of the brackets that again holds the power steering lines pair of pliers come in handy to help turn the top of your tubing cutter if your hands were greasy ties to hold some of the wires and the wire loom out of the way so you have room to work and some bearing grease or just chassis grease I greased up the you know the the lines the surface of the lines after I was done just to put a thin coat on there to prevent further corrosion of the lines as you'll see in the video but these are just extra tools here that you'll see me use in the in the video so I wanted to put it at the front of the video so that way you're not in the middle of video and wondering how come I didn't talk about those tools before the project was started but yeah if the video helps you feel free to let me know in the comments give it a thumbs up subscribe to my channel if you like videos like these Thanks so the first thing we're gonna have to do is get some of these wires in the wire looms out of the way they're all held in by these clips here you can get in here with a flathead screwdriver and pop these open you can just go ahead and take your screwdriver and get in right here and just give it a twist and they should pop off there's one there there's one here that you got to get to there's no the black one underneath here but I'll get these popped off and come right back all right just so you can see you can get down in here you stick the screwdriver in just give it a twist they'll pop open for you all right so this guy down in here inside the black clip runs around the front here and that's the one it's gonna be primarily in your way once you got that free from the clip there's actually enough slack to put it up around the backside of the brake booster and that really opens things up you're gonna want to have to pop this guy off here and get him out of the way because there's a 10 millimeter bolt that holds this bracket so you're gonna pop him out of the way and then down inside there is the 10 mil right there there's another wire it's kind of hard to see down there you've got to pop that out of its clip too but you should be able to get this 10 millimeter expose down on here to get this to get this bracket off but once you get all these unclipped makes a lot easier to try to try to move these wire looms around to get access to this alright so you can see that other the other black clip down there for that smaller wire loom I had to pop to be able to fit the ratchet down there if you have a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench you can probably get on that 10 mil with that a little bit easier than doing with the the ratchet alright once you get that 10 millimeter loose where there's quite a bit of sticking out and it's pretty easy to turn I recommend taking the socket off reaching down there and trying to get it out with your fingers so that way when it comes out it doesn't fall down into the abyss and never to be seen again alright once you got that finger loose it should just pop and then this whole thing came up has one piece there's a little clip on the back side of that 10 millimeter I guess they were thinking so that way it's not gonna fall down and the end baby but who knows yours might be rotted off so it's always best just to reach down there with your fingers and get the last few turns rather than finish it off with the ratchet all right so we get the bracket of the way and that exposes the rubber grommet that's supporting the lines and we should be able to just pull that up and off out of the way exposing the lines and you can see all the fluid here where it was definitely leaking we're on the line yet the leak is but I'm gonna clean these up with a little bit of a brake clean and wipe it down with some paper towels and try to see where on the line it's actually weak all right so we got the lines cleaned up pretty good here the lines themselves are dry now it almost looks like that one tiny spot right there could be a small pinhole and that might be where we have the leak coming from so I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and start the start to car up and just try to see if I can notice where exactly on the line that the leak is coming from so I'll know how much of the line I have to cut out all right so starting the vehicle allow me to actually see what leaks coming from it wasn't this thing that looked like a little pinhole here it's actually on the bottom side of this line here the high-pressure line and you can see a stream coming out right here when the vehicle is running so I got to cut out a section of this line here and we'll go ahead and take the tubing cutter and I'm gonna try to cut it back here behind you know just be on the brake booster here and I'll probably end up cutting it up in here and just replace this whole section you know so we'll get that cut out so in order to lift these lines up enough cause you have to be able to get the tubing cutter in here to spin around in order to lift these lines up enough there is another bracket way down after the bend for all the lines down and you need to use a few extensions to get down there but there's a 10-millimeter bolts down in between the lines right there on that bracket you're gonna have to loosen that bracket up okay so after you get that 10 millimeter loose right there on that bracket there's actually another bracket I don't know why GM decided to put another bracket but there is another bracket and that bracket can be seen through the wheel well and I was able to get on it with a quarter inch drive and ten millimeter socket because you have this stupid shield in the way so you can't get a 3/8 set up in there you can't get it from the other side it literally lands right on that ridge line there it's so ridiculous and since this is a steel line here loosening up that first bracket doesn't allow you to lift up on the lines without risking bending this section here so I was able to get on there it was a pain with the quarter inch drive and 10 millimeter set up so not the funnest bolt to get to but if you have a quarter inch drive and a 10 you are able to get it and get it loosened up I don't know why GM decided to put a bracket six inches away from the other bracket but what do I leave my socket right on there now you should be able to lift up on these lines here enough to get the tubing cutter and up top without bending on these lines okay so I was able to wedge the rubber grommet between the inner line and the shock tower to allow enough room to get my tubing cutter in here and also helped to pry up on those lines a little bit just to get them raised up enough just to be able to get the tubing cutter and I'm gonna start with this rear cut because I think the front cut would probably be the easier of the two so we'll get this cut out here I'll check back so we got the rear one cut and now I got a cut the front let your galleys damn wire looms in the way here so I got some heavy-duty zip ties and I'm gonna zip tie around this and just hold those out of the way I know that step probably wasn't necessary to get the job done if you don't have zip ties but if you do just having these out of the way just makes it a lot easier to have access to get down here with the cutter without having these wire looms in your way all right we got the tubing cutter in place here when I cut this section off and then we'll get the pressure fittings on add a new piece cut put in place all right and sometimes your hands get greasy and they slip on the screw on the top of this tubing cutter you can use pliers to give it a little extra turn okay so now we've got this piece off just a bad piece here we just line it up take tubing cutter and just cut a section of this three-eighths break line and we'll get it pieced in with the compression fitting to assume that anyone's an idiot but you want to cut off this flared end off the off the break line just cut this flared end off and then come down here and cut your second cut right now that we've got the flared end cut off you can see the thickness of the wall of the tubing is similar so the strength of the tubing is similar if you look inside your compression fitting you can see that you're gonna have to make your new piece just a little bit shorter than the piece that you cut off from because the inside of this there's a space in here now we've got our piece cut off we're gonna get it set up with the compression fittings sure it is supposed to look like now you want to make it so you have nut thread side facing out followed by the little insert on either side and then this piece is ready to set in so what I did is I got this set up all on here and was able to tighten these down before messing around up top so that way this is ready to go so I'm gonna go ahead and slide those on the ends on the trail and we'll get this piece fitted in okay so you can see we got the ends on the power-steering side of things here now we're going to take our piece that we made we're going to stick it in and get it threaded in okay getting this back one threaded in was not the easiest task in the world better to come in through the tire well here and get on it with the two wrenches there and then just turn it just turn it a little bit at a time to get it tight all right we got the back all tightened up and now we're working on the front front a little easier to access here I'm not saying you can get a lot of turn on this wrench so you'd be doing a lot of like flipping the wrench over turn and flipping the wrench over turn but should be able to get that tightened down and we'll get it fired up and check for leaks before we start putting any brackets back on or tighten the brackets down or putting the wire looms back all right so we got the engine running and I turn the wheel back and forth a few times and I'll see any leaks from this Union air trips or anything back here and I don't see anything leaking from the front Union no leaks that I can see nothing spraying out so I'm gonna call that good I'm gonna shut it off and I'm gonna get everything put back put that rubber grommet back put the bracket back on so I got the rubber grommet piece here how cleaned up and I applied a thin layer of just wheel bearing chassis grease just general purpose grease over the the lines here before I put this back on just try to try to keep some of the you know the the salt and corrosion and stuff from further eating at these at these lines here it's not necessary but I figured it you know can't hurt all right so we got that 10 millimeter down there already tighten back up here hold the bracket back on we got the power steering lines with a thin coat of grease on them hopefully prevent further corrosion so now it's just a matter of getting these other brackets tighten down down here they got this guy this ten millimeter here that we got to get with the quarter inch and I've got this guy here we can get from up top with some extensions we'll go ahead and get those tighten back down all right so we got this 10 millimeter way down here on top of that bracket tightened up the other one over here tightened up that's tightened up so now it's just a matter of zip tie cutting throw all these wire looms back in these back in these clips and check the power steering fluid don't forget to bring this wire loom that we talked behind the master cylinder back up over the master cylinder bring it down to its proper location put it back into its uh it's clipped down here and then yeah that's good then we'll get this one flipped in and then we should be good all right all the wire looms are successfully clipped into place we've checked and added power steering fluid so we're good to go if this video helped you please let me know in the comments you know give it a thumbs up and share it if you know somebody has a trailblazer it would be the same issue I appreciate it subscribe if you'd like thanks alright so it's been about a week since I did this repair I know there's some people that you know complaining that you know these repair jobs don't hold and you know I don't see any leaks here I checked the fluid the fluid still good both ends don't seem to be having any any drips or our leaks so even if you use this as a even a temporary fix obviously it's colder than hell here you know maybe maybe in the warmer weather I might actually place the whole line but you know this seems to be holding up fine so if you're in a situation and you have a leak going on here you know at the very least you know this will buy you some time and you know as far as I can tell it looks to be you know if you wanted to leave it it looks like it'd be permanent