when it comes to drawing lines and marking lumber there's no substitute for a well sharpened carpenter's pencil do you ever wonder why they're not round wrong pencils are much easier to sharpen even with a broken lead a few turns of the crank and they're good as new the point can be made legal sharp with a few wipes on a piece of sandpaper so why don't comforters carry those around in their polisher behind their ear instead well for me the answer is simple rectangular lead draws better lines on wood let in a round pencil can be thick too but the point is fragile it doesn't take much to snap the tip off point wears down quickly it makes it tough to draw a long fine line properly sharpened carpenter's pencil is the best of both worlds a fine tip that is sturdy so a long sharp line can be drawn even on rough lumber or sheet Goods and a sharp line equals accurate cuts even though the carpenter pencil lead looks thick and stubby when it's turned on edge you can see it's razor sharp a similar sharpness to this round pencil but the test is how long of a thin line can each of these tips draw the round lead pencil starts out with a nice sharp line that quickly degrades the carpenter pencil start sharp and stay sharp the proof is in the width of the line at the end of only six feet the width of the line from the round pencil is nearly twice as thick as the line drawn by the carpenter's pencil without resharpening carpenters pencil and draw a line after line without resharpening I was able to draw ten lines with the carpenter's pencil before the line with equaled that of the first line drawn with the round pencil but a poorly sharpened carpenter's pencil with a nasty point on it it looks like it was too sharp by a rabid squirrel won't get the job done either so here's a quick lesson on how I sharpen them sharpening a carpenter's pencil with a classic point is nothing more than whittling with a purpose make sure you have a sharp knife and Whittle flat faces first taking a number of passes to get down to the lead this is when I shave the lead to make it thinner and sharper at the end flip around and do the other side finish whittling the sharp edge on the lead the point to be made very sharp this way because there's still pencil wood on each side of the lid to support the lead while it's being shaved next I do the edges angling down to the lid a slight turn at the end and I like to put one final pass on these sharp corners just to make it pretty it's about all there is to it when I have lines a draw on a rough surface like concrete concrete block or stucco I sharpen the pencil in the classic style but I leave the lead blunt so that it has a chance of drawing a line on the rough surface without crumbling process is the same leave the lead exposed a little bit shorter and don't wheel it to a sharp point same as the classic point with but with a blunt tip if I'm able to draw visible lines on very rough surfaces the flat faces and rectangular led of a carpenter's pencil make it ideal for scribing boards - uneven surfaces the tip of the classic point is good for scribes up to about an eighth of an inch when the amount to be scribed is more than an eighth of an inch the tip of the classic point isn't enough to reach describing amount that's when I employ the offset tip scribe point by sharpening the tip off-center to the face of the pencil I can get a scribe distance of 3/8 of an inch pretty easily the method for sharpening the classic point and the offset point are very similar but I'll go through the steps to show you how I do it instead of starting with the faces I start with the edges and the goal is to pare down to the far side of the lead take some fairly long sweeping cuts to get down there because we're exposing the lead making a real fine point this can be fragile and take a couple of tries but we'll see how we do on our first attempt here still got a little bit of lead left there I'm going to keep paring down until I get to the other edge of the lead or just right there with the one edge pared down I'll sharpen the other side which doesn't need to start as far back on the pencil this time we just kiss the lead and give it a sharp point you can see how it's razor sharp but the tip doesn't snap off because of the wood on each side now I can carefully clean up the sides to expose the lead for its scribe point sneaking up on it there sector pass is just kind of clean things up and that is what I call the offset scribe point describing the point in this way lets me easily get a 3/8 inch offset scribe without using an extra scribe block or anything sometimes it's just the ticket if the pencils turned the other way you can see the scribe is less but still might be useful getting three options for scribing just from a pencil the classic point being the shortest and the full offset being the greatest sometimes I need to do an unusually demanding scribing task when a classic point makes it difficult to get an accurate scribe to a surface because of the offset between the face of the pencil and the center of the lead it's difficult to get an accurate scribe in an unusual situation when regular pencils and scribing methods don't work I reach for the most unusually sharpened pencil in my arsenal by planing down the face of the pencil and then using a sanding block the face of the pencil lead and the point of the pencil are all in a single plane so that I can easily project a line to be scribed off of a flat surface as you can tell I contrived this scenario to show how a pencil sharpened with a projected point can scribe some pretty unusual things with little effort quite accurately don't ask me why I'd ever need describe a piece of 2 by 3 vertical grain douglas-fir through a piece of six-inch crown molding but if I had to this is how I do it hopefully I've shown that a pencil sharpened in this unusual manner can be quite helpful in a sticky situation and this is how I go about sharpening a projected point on a carpenter's pencil starting with a square end on a pencil simply use a block plane to shave a very shallow angle on one face of the pencil once the face is shaved sufficiently the next step is to smooth it up and true it up on a piece of sandpaper supported by something flat and solid that kind of makes a mess but it gets the job done once that's taken care of the other steps are pretty simple and it's really essential for this lead to have a sharp knife otherwise that fragile tip of that little just snap off same method as the classic tip I leave wood supporting on the sides as I shave the lead down and take care of a couple sides and the exposed graphite is pretty fragile sometimes it takes a few tries to get this pencil sharpened nicely once the pencil is sharpened you can make very nice accurate scribes in some pretty unique situations resharpening the lead then is just a matter of quick rub on the sandpaper and possibly a little bit of tune-up with a knife I just keep this pencil in my toolbox to pull it out in a pinch with a well sharpened carpenter's pencil an assortment of other sharpened with tests coriander you'll be prepared to tackle carpentry projects with accuracy and confidence you